Does anyone know where to get a tool to cut the boolits out of the lube once it sets up? I looked at goatlips site and saw this but can't find one for sale anywhere
Does anyone know where to get a tool to cut the boolits out of the lube once it sets up? I looked at goatlips site and saw this but can't find one for sale anywhere
Dont know where to buy them, but you can make them out of empty shell cases. I read somewhere you can use a 45-70 shell case for most .45 bullets. I made one the other day for .38's out of a 30-30 case. I just cut it off where the taper starts, then filed it down until it fit just right. Then cut a notch in the end to take the bullet out once you cut it out of the lube.
I use an empty case, with the primer pocket enlarged, in order to put an inverted 10 penny nail in to push the boolit back out...I also use the same size nail on a 45-70 with a flat washer that fits the case. (I used Alumiweld to attach the flat washer to the nail heads.)
Same thing with cookie cutters for lube......The last "Kookie Kutter" I ran across at a gun show was priced so high I just had to take a second look!
Russ...
When it comes to Muzzle Loaders, Black Powder Matters.
hedgehorn +1 on cbr post.
Before I found out about other methods I bought a cake kutter for .358's on ebay last year. Took awhile to find one. For other sizes I pop the lube cake out of the pan and push the boolits out.
I have one, new in the package, Lee , for 30C made of alum and marked $ 3.48 . Lord only knows how long since it was bought tho. I have always just used a cart case -
If you cool the lube down, you can push the bullets out with your thumb. Use a pan with tapered sides, so the whole slab will pop out, and push the bullets out the bottom. If it's too soft at room temperature, put it in the refrigerator for a while.
Morgan
I'm pretty sure the guy who has the Lyman 310 shop makes these. Google lyman 310 shop. He calls them kake kutters and will make them for any caliber for $15. It's almost half way down the main page.
Last edited by square butte; 04-16-2012 at 07:38 AM.
With Lar's Carnauba Red Lube I cannot get the cake to pop out of the pan at all, however, after the lube cools down some, I can wiggle the boolits a bit & they'll easily come out.
Rick
Democracy is two wolves and a
lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting
the vote. - Benjamin Franklin
For some reason, I suspect he is using felix lube.
The bullets should push out once the lube has cooled, I've used that same batch to do just that. The trick is to make sure it is fully cooled. I'm not very patient so I always try to remove the first boolit too soon and it strips most of the lube back off. Leave em 1/2 an hour or so or put it in the fridge and it works better.
Will
You are correct its the Felix lube your speaking of. I put it in aluminum pie tin and let it cool in the fridge. I was going to try the goatlips trick and hit them from the top like whack the mole but I couldnt get the kake out of the pan. Man that stuff is like glue I found that with the kake cool I could gently grab them with pliers an pull them with most of the grooves staying filled. I did google the 310 shop and he does show one of those tools I am just waiting for a response to see if he has one for the 45-70. Thanks to all that responded
If you are speaking of the throw away aluminum pie pans, that is probably a lot of the reason it is stuck. all those creases on the edges aren't conducive to letting it go. Find a glass or even better an old fashioned re-usable pie pan with smooth sides and it will probably release easier.
I'm told that an old yard-sale golf club will make several kake kutters of various sizes. I haven't tried it myself, yet, but plan to.
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A good way to get the cake of lube out of any pan is to line the bottom of the pan with wax paper before beginning. Invert the pan and the cake will usually fall out under it's own weight.
Once again, I'll post the method I use. Below is the 9" cake pan. Some are aluminum, this one's plated steel, which is less prone to denting than the aluminum. The main thing is, it should have tapered sides to allow the release of the hardened lube block. Also shown, are two of the perforated boards I use to aid in placing the bullets in the tray prior to pouring in the lube. It allows the pan to hold more bullets, requiring less lube, and eliminates the probability of them falling "domino-style", if one is knocked over. .
One's a .45 cal., the other .32, a loose fit, holding 100 and 189 bullets respectively. After filling, they are carefully removed using the screw "handles", and the lube poured in up to the top lube groove. After cooling, the block of lube holding the bullets is removed, and the bullets are popped out through the bottom with the thumb. No Kake Cutter is needed.
Morgan
That is a brilliant technique !!!
Looks great morgan! I am going to have to get busy with the drill press
Morgan,
Well done. I learn so much and see so many good ideas on this site. thanks.
725
+1 for Morgan and I too am going to have to get busy out in the shop
Yes, I know it's cocked, It's got bullets too.
If it ain't metal, single stack, and single action, it ain't a 1911 no matter what it looks like!!
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |