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Thread: Saeco pot thermostat..

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Jun 2009
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    Saeco pot thermostat..

    Fellers a casting/reloading friend of mine recently picked up an old Saeco 20lb. bottom pour pot. The previous owner had trouble with the thermostat and now it's rusted solid and non-functional at best. So my friend is looking for a replacement thermostat. He is not interested in going PID at this time. (please note that so we don't wander off on a PID topic) Anyways, doing some research for him here and see frequent reference to the B-200 stat from American Thermostat Corp. and sold by several companies. I noted that the operating temp is listed at 500 degrees "room tempreture". But some seem to be buying them. What I haven't found yet is someone who installed and was able to get it up to temp (700*) and reported back as such. So, if you bought one and installed it would you mind posting a report before I recommend it to him. Any modifications? Did you remove/relocate the limiting tab? Many thanks in advance. Audie...the Oldfart..

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy masscaster's Avatar
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    My Dad simply bypassed it, running it direct. It works as long as you keep casting and don't let the pot sit.
    A thermometer is good to let you know when it's up to Temp. Then it's a cast, cast, cast situation. Used it for years like that with no ill effects.

    Another option is to find a 900 - 1200 degree stat. Take the Thermo out and slide the new one in. Mount it, and away you go.
    I think Grainger sells the stats with Thermo couplers on them. ; )

    Jeff

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
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    I do not know the amp draw of that old pot (my Lee 4-20's are 700W), but you could pick up a heavy duty light dimmer and use that for variable temp control. You would definitely need a casting thermometer to get a feel of where to set the dial, but it is a possibility.

    Most dimmers are triac's (or similar technology) and will easily run non-inductive loads like pot heater coils and light bulbs. It is NOT an on-off control as the old t-stat was or the PID-based controllers everybody on here uses is. It is completely analog variable output (a light dimmer!).

    Watch the current draw! VERY important.

    Let us know what you arrive at.

    banger

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for the tips fellers. I'll try and get some more info from him as per the watts so we know what amperage we're working with. When he dropped by I brought out my Lyman Mould Master and he said it's a twin to his and showed me a picture on his cell phone of the Saeco. They do look almost identicle. I pulled the coverplate on mine and we saw the stat and how it hooks up. Never thought to look for a manufacturer name on it so might take my cover off again. Unfortunatly, no stats available from Lyman either. Has anyone put the B-200 stat on a Lyman?? I considered a dimmer control but reasoned it would never shut off..but it might work..still pondering that. Wouldn't a dimmer control work by varying the voltage and would the elements work that way?? Direct wiring would have it running flat out all the time, right? We're still doing some research. Guess someones got to be the first to try the B-200 and it may well be him. I'll keep ya'll posted on our efforts and outcomes. Audie..the Oldfart.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check