Bobby
With the lee hand press you may not be solid enough to keep everything lined up correctly like a mounted press will. I have some pliers type that work well ( I made these but there are some diffrent hand decappers recappers out there to purchase but they arnt cheap either. The hand press and inherent shake may be causing your issues
Just looked no berdan primers but a lot of crimped ones
Bobby
Crimped ones will do it.
Lee sells a straight decapping pin for under 3$, I recently bought a couple because I broke the original in my lee loader. In my case, yes, it was a Berdan primer that I didn't catch.
One thing about doing it manually with a small hammer, pin and block, is that when it "bounces" you can stop, set that case aside and try another. Or you can risk it and try again, knowing that there is a chance you'll break your pin.
Or you can be a bit more fussy about what brass you buy/pickup.
Choices are pretty simple really, and they are yours to make.
Have to remove the crimp for first decapping.
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month."
Theodore Roosevelt
Lee decapping pins are tough to break, but Berdan primed cases will do it for there is no hole for the pin to go through. In a Lee sizing the decapping pin will usually slide upward in the collet that holds it when an obstruction is encountered. In either case the pins are some kind of roll pin that is very hard so they can shatter or snap under sudden stress. Undersize flash holes can be the cause too of pin failure. It is wise to inspect cases prior to going ahead with the operation to reduce the possibility of problems....Berdans can be easily spotted with a small flashlight whereas tight flashholes can usually be screened by feeling them with a decapping pin, but go slow and afterward eliminate the crimp on the pocket. LLS
Slow down making sure of alignment. If flash holes are to small or your alignment is off pins break. Did you inspect the brass that broke the pins?
"It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees" Looking for an RCBS Ammomaster and H&R shotgun barrels regardless of condition
I was breaking a lot of decapping pins with RCBS dies with crimped military brass. Ended up manually decapping anything that had a crimped primer. It's another step but it really reduces the stress on the dies and press. Also reduces the frustration of breaking pins during a reloading session. It's another step but so far it's been worth it. To remove the crimp once the primer is out I've been using a philips headed screw driver that I've ground the tip off so it doesn't bottom out and filed the blades sharp to cut the crimp.
Sounds like you have the nut at the top of the die too tight so the pin can't give a bit if it runs into something tough. The Lee decapping dies are designed so the pin gives a bit when it runs into a berdan primed brass or a crimped in primer that's too tough.
If you're breaking pins, most likely you've tightened the nut too tight. Loosen it a bit and let it slip if it hits something really hard.
I looked at all the primers I took out and none where berdan I could tell the non crimped they came out easy. Some have green ring around the primer could not get them out that's what broke the first new pin so the ten or so of them got put in the scrap brass box. Not worth breaking any more pins
Bobby
They are easy to fix. Heat with a propane torch, they will jump out once the glue holding the pin in expands and charts to burn.
Buy a drill blank the same diameter of the pin and glue in with some slow drying epoxy, I use the epoxy beading compound for thr glue.
The pins in the Lee hammer type can be replaced by the same process.
That green ring is sealant the military and some others use to make the round water proof. Though I do think it has a effect on decapping at times. The Lee hammer pin does a great job is only a few dollars and is usefull for first time decapping, it is on the slow side at times. You can make this set up easy enough. Its a simple desighn of a cupped base to fit the case with a thru hole ( holds about 6-8 primers). A decapping rod that should be caliber specific to ease findiing the flash hole and a .050-.055 dia pin pressed in the end. Making your own allows a couple things ,1) caliber specific rods 2) a drill blank or shank to be fitted just long enough to push primer out. 3) the cuped base can be made 1 1/2 -2" in dia and a bigger cup deeper cup placed in the bottom allowing for more fired primers before it fills up. The Lee set is very useable but the homemade one I described even more so. A small ball peen hammer and a solid hit removes most primers first time.
To answer the RCBS pin question. Most decapping pins are not as robust as lee. The other advantage or disadvantage depending on your prefrance is the collet and rod arraignment of the lee dies. As mentioned is designed to slip,combined with a more robust pin is supposed to mean less broken pins.
"It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees" Looking for an RCBS Ammomaster and H&R shotgun barrels regardless of condition
I have made a 3rd flash hole several times when berdan primed brass has slipped by me. Old Herters dies.
To remove crimped in military primers without breaking pins, use a punch and base set as sold by Wilson and Lee. Wilson is better, but Lee is cheaper.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
I just finished removing the crimped in primers on 500 Lake City .308 cases with my RCBS decapping die and broke no pins. Slow down a little. GP
When you use a universal decapper the rod is not captured by the mouth of the case and it is easy to get it missaligned. I decap military brass the first time with a regular sizing die. The decapping pin is much more supported and straight in those.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
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