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Thread: Need help using Jone handwarmer

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


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    Need help using Jone handwarmer

    Sorry this is not about cast boolits, but it seems we have a pretty bright bunch here regarding things manly, so I figured someone here could help me.

    I bought a Jone fluid type handwarmer, and I can't get it lit. For the life of me can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

    I followed the directions about filling it with fluid, and I snapped the heating element back on. The directions say to light the wick, which I presume is the cotton thread sticking out the side of the unit about 1/4 inch, just below the heating element, and let it burn for 1 minute, then blow it out. The unit is then supposed to start generating heat in a few minutes.

    When I light the wick, I get a 3 -4 inch yellow flame , which deposits soot all over the element on the side the wick is on. After a minute I blow it out, and then nothing happens. I tried it twice, and both times nothing.

    Anyone know how to use these?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Got a picture?
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master twotrees's Avatar
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    Turn the hand warmer on it's side.

    Let the wick heat the heating element up for the 30 - 60 seconds. Blow the wick out and then set it where it will get NO WIND on it, for 5-10 min. The element is a catalitic unit and will glow ( If you look at in total darkness). Put the top cover on it and put it in the cloth bag and your good to go, for at least 4-6 hours.

    Still have mine from 30 years ago, but Ga don't get as cold during hunting season as it does in Penna.

    Good Hunting,

    TwoTrees

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Morgan Astorbilt's Avatar
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    All mine are older models which don't have a wick. First, you have to make sure the heater isn't overfilled. There should be no liquid above the cotton in the reservoir, and the cotton should be up to the top. I just, with the heater held horizontal, hold a lighted wooden match under the element as long as possible, and put the cap back on. The cap should start warming up almost immediately.
    Morgan

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Patrick,

    Here is a link to a post I had short time ago ont he same topic. Maybe some of the info will help you out.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t=jon-e+warmer

  6. #6
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    44man's Avatar
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    You have to shake all excess fluid out of it after filling or it will flood out. Once lit, get the cap on and put it in the cover. Stick it in a pocket, burner side up until it gets hot. Once hot you can put it any which way.
    The wick is too long if it burns orange and/or it is too full of fluid.
    By the way, coleman fuel works great in them. I still have 3.
    Did you guys know the Deer Coy they sold for them was the best deer lure ever made? I used to drip it in a scrape and before I could get in the stand a buck would be there. I pulled a herd of doe 50 yd's into a scrape as soon they got downwind of it and smelled it. How I wish it was still made!
    For some reason the warmer always went out if stood on a stump or left in the open, even when in the cover.
    Last edited by 44man; 01-31-2008 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Forgot something.

  7. #7
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Is it necessary to fill the reservoir completely?
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

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  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    Pepe Ray's Avatar
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    Put in only as much as the cotten will absorb.
    If you "over-fill" the heat will cause the excess to expand /leak out and cause a hazardous mess.

    Morg; you must 'really " be an old timer. I've had mine since 1962 and it has a wick. The distributor that employed me did have some cheaper "imports" w/o a wick. Got one of those also and it seems to work as good as the Jonni
    Pepe Ray
    The way is ONLY through HIM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check