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Thread: 300 Blackout Cast Hunting Bullets - Calling all Expansion Experts!!

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy wordsmith's Avatar
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    300 Blackout Cast Hunting Bullets - Calling all Expansion Experts!!

    Sorry for the long post, but thought I’d share some successes and post some further questions of the experts out there. This post explores my quest for an affordable 300 BLK subsonic hunting bullet, that can be safely used with a non-serviceable suppressor. I’ve gained a lot of knowledge in this forum, and I wanted to give some back (hopefully).

    First, some background. When I started looking for acceptable subsonic hunting bullets, I quickly ran into a wall. There are basically two choices, Lehigh or Outlaw State, both of which are $1.00+ per bullet. I preferred the Outlaw State design, but after multiple email attempts to place an order with no response, I grew frustrated and decided I’d develop my own. I also investigated swaging my own j-word bullets, but figured out that would require significant investment for what is essentially a personal hobby, so I abandoned that route as well. Plus, I’m a tightwad, which I think was one of the requirements for joining the Cast Boolits forum.

    Pretty quickly, I ran into two primary issues. The first is finding a technology that will withstand the pressures of firing and reliably feeding in the AR platform, but still expand at subsonic velocities on soft targets. The second issue, which was even harder to solve, was finding options that were safe to fire through a non-serviceable AAC-SDN-6 suppressor.

    I started like most others by loading up 208 AMax’es or 220 Sierra RN’s. After a decent amount of testing and tweaking, I was able to get sub-1” groups at 50 yards with both designs. They will shoot 5 rounds with all of them touching. 100 yard groups are a tad over 1”. Velocity SD’s are typically 15 fps +/- for 10 rounds using WC 680 (mil version of AA 1680) with 100% cycling and bolt lock-back. Two critical items I found – I apply a heavy crimp, and I lightly tumble lube the j-words with 45/45/10. Those two things dropped my SD’s by more than half and greatly increased accuracy.

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    All is well, until it comes time to hunt with these rounds. To put it bluntly, they sucked. My style of shooting (mostly stalking) doesn’t always allow for pinpoint shot placement, so headshots on moving pigs with sometimes offhand shots isn’t feasible. I’ve gotten 100% run-offs on front shoulder shots (deadly with supers), and even raccoons run off more than half the time. Neither bullet is expanding (no surprise there) and doesn’t appear to be tumbling quickly enough to do the trick. In short, they’re not suitable or humane for anything but perfect headshots.

    This pushed me to first consider modifying the j-word bullets to meet all of design goals. To date, I have finalized one design (j-words) and need help as I push forward on a cast boolit solution. My findings and questions are below.

    300 BLK Subsonic J-Word Hunting Bullet Design – WARNING USE AT YOUR OWN RISK

    My first fully successful design is using 220 gr Sierra RN j-words. After testing 3 different designs, I found the one that finally worked well.

    To create it, I took a ¼” drill bit and carefully drilled off the exposed lead tip until just encountering the start of the jacket, leaving a shallow cup that I used to guide a #19 bit (0.166”) as I drilled out a 0.250” deep hollowpoint cavity. The #19 bit drills with only minor jacket removal and helps keep the HP centered (using the jacket as a guide) in my drill press. I drilled an undersized hole in a piece of 1”x4” with a split cut down the middle to allow me to squeeze the bullet and keep it from turning during drilling operations.

    From there, I filled the cavity with flexible silicone caulk (Home Depot) and tapped a steel BB into the end of the cavity with a ball-peen hammer (several light taps). The #19 bit was chosen as it gave about a 0.005” interference fit between the jacket and BB and, together with the adhesion from the caulk as it dries, holds the BB is tightly in the cavity. Finally, I lightly skivved the outside of the jacket in four locations around the circumference of the bullet, and about as far down as the HP cavity. One note - leave the very tip of the bullet unskivved, as it will hold the BB more securely, a technique I figured out after taking the pictures in this thread.

    To test the adhesion, I used a heavily crimped round in my inertial bullet puller, allowing rather aggressive hammering of the puller in an attempt to get the BB to come out of the cavity. I also used various other tools to attempt to pull the BB from the cavity, with zero success. I have fired about 100 rounds with zero issues. However, having the possibility of a loose BB in the barrel as it fires is going to be a problem, and you should thoroughly check your rounds before firing until you master the design.

    CONSIDER YOURSELVES WARNED, USE OF THIS DESIGN IS ENTIRELY AT YOUR RISK AND CAN POSE SERIOUS HAZARDS IF NOT DONE PROPERLY. Hopefully enough said.

    The point of the BB was to “recreate” the round nose of the bullet, which reduced fail to feed jams to zero in my guns, where a previous blunt open HP iteration was jamming every 2-3 rounds. Upon firing, the BB pushes against the column of flexible silicone caulk, causing very high pressures against the jacket walls, essentially exploding the HP cavity and leaving a 0.40-0.45” flat nose with about 180 grains of shank remaining.

    Water testing confirmed the validity of the design, and results on raccoon-sized game has been emphatic. Where I was seeing 50-75% escapes with coons using 208 Amax / 220 RN unmodified, the BB design has been 100% DRT. I won’t post pictures here, but suffice it to say expansion was confirmed. I haven’t shot a hog with this design yet, so that question remains. Some pics…

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    EDIT 08/17/2014: Video of water testing above design. It's loud due to phone being right next to muzzle.



    END EDIT.

    The 220 gr Sierra RN j-word design is great and meets all of my criteria, but suffers from two issues. The first is the (lack of) availability of the 220 RN bullets. Recently, they’ve been very hard to get. The second is that, quite frankly, it’s a major PITA to make these bullets in any quantity. I have several friends that want them by the hundreds, and I just don’t have the time or patience for that. A third minor issue is that they’re still about $0.35 ea shipped, which isn’t bad, but the tightwad in me wants to do better. Which lead me down the road of Lead, so to speak…

    300 BLK Subsonic Cast Hunting Bullet Design

    I casted boolits as a kid under the close supervision of my Uncle, but hadn’t done it or had the equipment since then, some 35+ years later. It became apparent that maybe the best way to solve the problem was to go old tech and find a heavy cast boolit that would do the trick. So I broke out the CC and proceeded to spend a bunch of money on casting equipment, in order to save a bunch of money…?

    Initially, I got discouraged due to the concerns of lead buildup in my suppressor and gas system from cast bullets. Gas checks might help, except they were problematic due to concerns of them coming off and remaining in the suppressor.

    The technology that made it possible is the new PC’ing / Hi-Tek coatings. I’m currently using Gold Hi-Tek liquid coatings, and am having great success. During initial testing, I ran about 50 rounds through the gun, cleaned the barrel with my normal cleaning products, and was shocked at how little came out of the barrel (basically two powder residue patches and clean). I then examined the barrel and suppressor with my Hawkeye borescope. The barrel looked brand new, no deposits of any kind. Nice shiny barrel. The suppressor showed no difference before / after firing, with normal levels of residue deposits. The stuff works great.

    I’m using this coating with the NOE 311247 PB mould, with and without hollowpointing. After two coats, I also lightly tumble lube with 45/45/10 to make sizing to 0.309 (from about 0.314 with Hi-Tek) very easy using a Lee push-thru sizer.

    I have two problems that I believe are interrelated. I’m not getting the accuracy I’m looking for (1.5MOA or less) with a bullet hardness I expect will expand reliably. I recently tested various cast combinations for accuracy, and need some help from you guys interpreting the results. Here’s a picture of 50 yard groupings for four different cast designs:

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    Group 1, Upper Left – 12.5 BHN, 75:25 COWW/Pb equivalent 247 gr monolithic.

    Group 2, Upper Right – Two-part bullet, 12.5 BHN Base, Pure Pb Flat nose. Water testing showed excellent “expansion”, normally in the form of a very bent nose. Adjusted the scope to left from first group to better center.

    Group 3, Lower Left – Two-part bullet, 12.5 BHN Base, 50:1 Pb/Sn HP Nose.

    Group 4, Lower Right – this is two 5-shot groups, one left of center, one right of center - 9.5 BHN, 98Pb/1% Sb/1% Sn HP monolithic.


    The group 4 boolit is the one I really want to get working better so I can move on to water testing, but at about 3.0 MOA, it’s twice the grouping that I want. It seems pretty clear that the 9.5 BHN boolit is too soft, and is either not tolerating the 1:8.5 twist rate or can’t take the 20,900 psi load (per Quickload). Here’s the bullet, with the HP enhanced with a gentle twist of the Lyman Flash Hole uniformer…

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    Finally, to my question...

    I really don’t want to have to cast softpoint bullets (groups 2 and 3 above) since they’re a major PITA and have a higher rejection rate than monolithic pours. Right now, however, it looks like I’m going to have to be closer to 12 BHN for accuracy and figure out a way to easily skive / weaken the HP of the cast bullet for reliable expansion.

    Investigated so far: 1) Sizing down of the bullet when seated? Checked found 0.0005" diameter reduction (to .3085") with 9.5 BHN at base only (not driving bands), and no reduction on 12.5 bases using 0.001" neck tension with custom +0.002 oversize Expander 2) Leading? Nope, borescope shows clean as a whistle 3) Keyholing? I don't think so, as I don't really see evidence, and JBM Ballistics show a 2.65 Stability Factor.

    Need to investigate: 1) Slug barrel to get true bore 2) hone out an extra Lee Sizer to 0.310" and see if increased diameter helps 3) 12.5 BHN HP Expanding? I'm thinking of water testing the 12.5 BHN HP's empty and with silicone caulk to see if I can get expansion and focus my efforts there.

    I’m looking for some feedback to see if you guys have already been down this road and have some thoughts. If not, I’ll keep going and report back on my final solution. Thanks in advance for any input and enduring this booklet of a post.
    Last edited by wordsmith; 08-17-2014 at 04:46 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I would first try the .310" boolits. Instead of steel BB's why not use airsoft BB's in the 220gr bullets, in case one falls off after feeding the round. Lastly, why not try water quenching your boolits, then putting them in water up to the nose of the boolit, and heating up the nose to take the hardening out of the nose and still have a harder shank. Then powder coating them.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy wordsmith's Avatar
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    Rockrat - great suggestions, I appreciate the input. I used steel BB's primarily because that's what I had on hand. I considered airsoft BB's, but IIRC, they were not available in a suitable size range.

    In regards the HT/WQ/nose annealing technique, I've seen it mentioned a number of times, and it sounds like somewhat of a pain. I think it could work well, I'm just looking for the least effort required to get from mould to shooting, as I need to make hundreds of these for friends. If all else fails, I may give that a go.

    Again, REALLY appreciate the input.

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    I'd add a gas check.
    it protect's and squares the base of the boolit.
    it's also great at gripping rifling.

    my next go round with the 300 b.o. is gonna be with the LEE 240gr boolit plain base pushed slow.
    I have been using the rcbs 165 silh boolit at 1300 + fps which I know will penetrate, but isn't an instant killer on chucks and squirrels.
    one trick you can try with the noe boolit is to cut the alloy with a click more lead and water drop them from the mold, this will bring the bhn up and help grip the rifling better. [maintain your mold temp throughout the process this keeps the bhn in a window]
    you'll also want to allow them to age for a month or so [14 day's minimum]
    however it allows the alloy to do it's job and retain the malleability on impact.


    if you want more violent expansion on the jaxketeds you could take a torch to the nose and slowly anneal the jacket. [keep the exposed lead]
    be careful and go slow, sometimes they will try to bubble up an air pocket.

    make sure you use the initiator you are using now if you want fast expansion, or just use the glue to slow things down a bit.
    you don't want a blow-up on the pigs...

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Jupiter7's Avatar
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    Have you considered a slower twist barrel?
    I know, not the answer you're looking for. I gave up on the sub-sonic 300blk in an AR as a viable option after some alloy testing with water jugs. Regardless of alloy most just penciled right through the first 5 water jugs. Expansion was minimal if any. Witnessed a few crazy bent bullets with quick course changes. This was all in 1/8 twist 10" lothar walther barreled AR pistol. I've seen others report better results with 1/10 twist barrels to impart tumbling quickly. I don't have a suppressor so subsonic really was of no concern to me, just wanted big and slow. I even pushed bullets of 250grs(accurate31-240e) up to 1400fps with no improvement. I will second that .310 seems to be more accurate regardless of speed, within reasonable range of alloy. My solution ended up being a 311-165 loaded long and running about 1800fps.

    Best of luck, your patience has run longer than mine did.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy wordsmith's Avatar
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    Popper - first, thanks to all your contributions on this forum. I've learned a lot from you in various posts and appreciate you taking the time to respond.

    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    With the HiTek, your BHN will be low. Annealing the noses after HT coated boolits may work, but HT'able alloy will regain some BHN over time after annealing. You will also burn off the HITek from the nose!
    Not to turn this into a Hi-Tek thread, but I think I can get around the BHN issue with Heat Treated bullets. I read on one of the uber-Hi-Tek posts that some folks were using ultra short cooking times and getting good results. In addition, the instructions I received with my liquid Hi-Tek coating stated only 60-90 secs, max, are needed at 375F to cure the coating.

    So I set to experimenting with my Gold Hi-Tek, and with a combination of a convection oven and a digital thermometer with thermocouple (intended for BBQ'ing), am able to get great smash / acetone wipe tests with 90 secs at a maximum of 375F. Recovered bullets show full retention of Hi-Tek, and I have no leading whatsoever. Point is, if I end up having to HT/anneal, I believe I can preserve the BHN's through the Hi-Tek process, as my total time in the oven is typically 5 minutes or under. Please don't flame me - just reporting what I've used successfully learning from all the good folks here.

    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    Your 8 1/2 twist should be acceptable with your alloy, depending on the powder. 20K psi is nothing, think 45ACP?
    I totally agree, which was why I thought a 9-10 BHN should work acceptably. AA 1680 is very slow in that application, which is necessary for AR gas port timing and reliable operation.

    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    Shouldn't need the alox over HiTek for sizing.
    Agree, just makes it a little smoother going through the sizing die, since I don't have the Extreme Catalyst. And I have a huge bottle of 45/45/10 to use up in this lifetime

    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    I think your biggest problem with the soft (<2% Sb doesn't HT) is nose bending from the ramp feeding. Read up on Cu enhanced alloy. I do think your pics show a lot of pits, dents in your cast so if they occur on the base, no accuracy. I'm sure there are some but I've not read about successes hunting with BO subs except at PB range. Hits, yes. Tracks, yes. DRT, no. I think the problem is the time to travel 100 yds or more, snap shots and moving target..
    Nose bending is possible. I cycled several through and examined them, and since I've optimized my feed ramps for the fat ogives on these bullets, I'm not seeing big issues. The fact that my 2-part softnose bullets with pure lead front halves shot better than my uniform 9.5 BHN bullets tends to reinforce my thoughts here.

    I read up extensively on Cu and S HT, even purchasing 5 lbs of sulfur, only later seeing that Sulfur can cause adhesion issues with Hi-Tek, so I haven't used it. I have a lot of magnum shot I can use to get As to the necessary levels, so I haven't kept going on Cu, but I will keep in the toolbox for down the road.

    I probably picked the worst bullet to have front and center for a picture, but you're correct. However, I examine each bullet before coating and cull religiously, especially with driving band or base defects. As you correctly pointed out, base defects have a major impact on accuracy. I also weighed all 50 rounds of 9.5 BHN HP's I casted, and they were within +/- 0.5 gr, so it seems like voids and other major hidden defects would be limited.

    Finally, I agree that DRT with 300 BLK subs on medium game like feral hogs is just not likely. I've downed in excess of 100 hogs, and even with rounds as powerful as 300 WM / 300 WSM, I've had the occasional failure. With 308 Win supers, the DRT rate is about 75% with decent placement, while 223 is more like 33%. Considering the subsonic 300 BLK has a lot less energy to work with, shot placement (hence accuracy) is critical.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy wordsmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    I'd add a gas check.
    it protect's and squares the base of the boolit.
    it's also great at gripping rifling.

    my next go round with the 300 b.o. is gonna be with the LEE 240gr boolit plain base pushed slow.
    I have been using the rcbs 165 silh boolit at 1300 + fps which I know will penetrate, but isn't an instant killer on chucks and squirrels.
    one trick you can try with the noe boolit is to cut the alloy with a click more lead and water drop them from the mold, this will bring the bhn up and help grip the rifling better. [maintain your mold temp throughout the process this keeps the bhn in a window]
    you'll also want to allow them to age for a month or so [14 day's minimum]
    however it allows the alloy to do it's job and retain the malleability on impact.


    if you want more violent expansion on the jaxketeds you could take a torch to the nose and slowly anneal the jacket. [keep the exposed lead]
    be careful and go slow, sometimes they will try to bubble up an air pocket.

    make sure you use the initiator you are using now if you want fast expansion, or just use the glue to slow things down a bit.
    you don't want a blow-up on the pigs...
    Runfiverun - thanks for the insights. Totally understand on the gas check, and I'd love to, but the risk of them coming off once they leave the barrel and lodge in the suppressor has kept me from going that route.

    I have the Lee 240 PB mould as well, but I prefer the NOE PB, plus I have it with a HP cavity. Let me know how it goes with the Lee, as similar approaches should work with either.

    Your experience with non-expanding slow 300 BLK bullets is identical to mine, in that even small prey (under 50 lbs) often makes it a good ways before expiring. Not satisfactory for me, which sent me down this path.

  8. #8
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    they don't blow off in my muzzle brake at 2400 fps, I doubt they'll come off at 900 fps.
    get good gas checks that crimp on. 35 bucks is cheap insurance..

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy wordsmith's Avatar
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    I realize that a slower twist could work, but between the difficulties in getting one made and the friends I load for that all have 1:7’s or 1:8’s, I’m still pushing to figure it out with the faster twists.

    My wife says I’m the most patient, most hard-headed person she’s ever known, so hopefully I can outlast this challenge.
    As a side note, here’s some pictures of softnosed 2-part 247 NOE’s shot into 3 gallons of water and stopped by 5 gallons of sand, which abraded off lead and Hi-Tek coating as shown in the pics. Interesting to note the “expansion” characteristics.

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  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Don't forget to water quench/anneal noses before powder coating. You can set alot of them in a pan and cover the shank with water before annealing the noses. let cool, dry and powder coat. I would think you could do 100 at a time.

    How would one of the NOE 247's do hollowpointed, using the soft alloy, and powder coated? Just a thought

  11. #11
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    hmm those are showing uneven mushrooming.
    I am wondering if that is happening [or partially happening] before it gets to the target.

  12. #12
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    It seems pretty clear that the 9.5 BHN boolit is too soft, and is either not tolerating the 1:8.5 twist rate or can’t take the 20,900 psi load (per Quickload).
    Don't know I buy that or not, but here is something to ponder. I shoot a fair amount of paper patched pure lead from 1100-1600 fps, the latter at much higher pressures than you're dealing with. Accuracy is excellent.

    Seems a fair number of folks have had success with CBs in fast twist guns from what I've read, so there's another reason I'm skeptical about the reason(s) for your results.

    Couple of stray thoughts? Your cast bullet looks like a bore rider design. Maybe that's not the best approach. You're putting a significant crimp in the case neck, that may not be in your best interest either. Lastly, I think you're wasting a lot of time with the two piece bullet construction. I assume you are casting this in two steps? Only way I know to achieve good accuracy with two piece bullets involves swagging.

    I don't know that paper patch is doable with a suppressor either, but am of the opinion that your objective can be had with a different bullet form/design.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy wordsmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    No GC boolit I've pushed to 1800 with accuracy from a 1:7 carbine, 2R nose.
    What was your alloy and / or hardness?

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    I don't know that paper patch is doable with a suppressor either,
    It's doable but maybe in some suppressors only - like mine.

    Just thought I'd share this one showing extreme expansion.

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    Weight retention was astoundingly high like nearly all of it. And that boolit is all in one piece! Not any good for hunting though I'd think. I have other boolits that turned inside out which y'all might remember.
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  15. #15
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    A couple of years ago I devoted a thread on a now defunct site to the whole problem of getting reliable expansion at subsonic velocity with 30 caliber boolets . The main boolit used was the Lee 200gn RN and the expansion medium was a 2 litre bottle of water. I have the advantage of having a lathe in the garage and this proved very useful in my experimentation . Boolits could be flat-pointed or hollow pointed by placing them in a 5/16" collet which ensured accurate centering and repeatabily .
    I began by casting a heap of boolits with soft lead - around BH 9 - and drilling eighth inch diameter hollow points almost the length of the boolits . Accuracy was good but disruption to the water jug was little better than an unmodified boolit . Flat noses were not much different .
    I experimented with placing aluminium foil between the mould blocks to split the boolit over about half its length . Sometimes they flew apart on the way to the target .
    The best results were achieved with a boolit split by aluminium foil but with a short sections of the nose and base left solid . A small hollowpoint was then drilled in the nose section to initiate expansion . I tried this boolit on both water jugs and ballistic gel .
    A boolit modified in this way tears into three sections almost at once in ballistic gel . The nose splits and the two "wings" break off, traveling away from the impact point at an angle , leaving the base to penetrate in a staight line. It disrupts a water jug in a very satisfying manner .
    Here is a link to a water jug hit .
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bupr...Fq1ByUehsRXzdA
    The Lee 240gn boolit behaves in a similar manner when treated this way although to have it stabilize in my 1 in 10 twist about 200 thousandths have to be removed from the tip before the hollow point is drilled .

  16. #16
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    I know in your original post you mentioned afforadable. the outlaw bullets are comparably expensive. I use them and we have had good expansion in the 1050 ft/sec range with 1:10" 308 with TB and 1:8" 308 x 1.5" with sr4759. have you looked at www.hawkbullets.com? not cheap there either but they expand at slow speeds(made very soft). I am slowly following your trek with the NOE 247 and just acquired a lee 230 also. jus got a little hi-tek and starting the PCing . keep up work and keep posting your progress.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy wordsmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heathydee View Post
    A couple of years ago I devoted a thread on a now defunct site to the whole problem of getting reliable expansion at subsonic velocity with 30 caliber boolets . The main boolit used was the Lee 200gn RN and the expansion medium was a 2 litre bottle of water. I have the advantage of having a lathe in the garage and this proved very useful in my experimentation . Boolits could be flat-pointed or hollow pointed by placing them in a 5/16" collet which ensured accurate centering and repeatabily .
    I began by casting a heap of boolits with soft lead - around BH 9 - and drilling eighth inch diameter hollow points almost the length of the boolits . Accuracy was good but disruption to the water jug was little better than an unmodified boolit . Flat noses were not much different .
    I experimented with placing aluminium foil between the mould blocks to split the boolit over about half its length . Sometimes they flew apart on the way to the target .
    The best results were achieved with a boolit split by aluminium foil but with a short sections of the nose and base left solid . A small hollowpoint was then drilled in the nose section to initiate expansion . I tried this boolit on both water jugs and ballistic gel .
    A boolit modified in this way tears into three sections almost at once in ballistic gel . The nose splits and the two "wings" break off, traveling away from the impact point at an angle , leaving the base to penetrate in a staight line. It disrupts a water jug in a very satisfying manner .
    Here is a link to a water jug hit .
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bupr...Fq1ByUehsRXzdA
    The Lee 240gn boolit behaves in a similar manner when treated this way although to have it stabilize in my 1 in 10 twist about 200 thousandths have to be removed from the tip before the hollow point is drilled .
    Very creative solution, and just the sort of information I figured was out there from those that had come before me. Did you find it to be a pretty slow process with getting the aluminium foil placed in the mold?

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy wordsmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by r6487 View Post
    I know in your original post you mentioned afforadable. the outlaw bullets are comparably expensive. I use them and we have had good expansion in the 1050 ft/sec range with 1:10" 308 with TB and 1:8" 308 x 1.5" with sr4759. have you looked at www.hawkbullets.com? not cheap there either but they expand at slow speeds(made very soft). I am slowly following your trek with the NOE 247 and just acquired a lee 230 also. jus got a little hi-tek and starting the PCing . keep up work and keep posting your progress.
    I haven't looked at the Hawk Bullets, good to see another option. I'm gonna keep pushing on this cast bullet front until I solve it. My current research is following the research of others and annealing the noses of heat treated boolits to get the 12-14 BHN bases I believe I need for the 1:7 twists, and keeping the BHN 9'ish on the HP noses. The final trick is keeping the heat treatment in place and still getting Hi-Tek to work, which I believe I've already solved based on early testing. I'll post an update here when I get new data.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    Glad to hear the Hi-trek coating works. I'm working with PC for clean suppressor use. I wonder if a larger HP on the NOE boolit might help.

    Nice work on the modified J-words.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by wordsmith View Post
    Very creative solution, and just the sort of information I figured was out there from those that had come before me. Did you find it to be a pretty slow process with getting the aluminium foil placed in the mold?
    I used strips of foil about 3/8" wide and about three inches long . A heap were pre-cut and placed in a handy position . After a little practice I found it easy to place the length of foil accurately between the mold halves.
    Closing the mold holds the foil in position with some hanging out each side . Pour as normal . The boolits fall from the mold as normal and the foil can easily be torn off . A section of foil remains in the boolit .

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check