MidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationLoad DataWideners
RotoMetals2RepackboxSnyders JerkyLee Precision
Titan Reloading Reloading Everything
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 26 of 26

Thread: scope ring screw torque

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    9,588
    Burris borrowed the design from the Sako http://www.sako.fi/optilockproducts.php?ringmounts

    In the 80’s one of the big bench rest smith was making semi-custom spherical scope mounts. Not sure if he still is making them.


    The design is very good. The Burris system works very well and I use a lot of them for long range rifles. That being said they are normal Burris quality. I use and recommend them but the Burris ones are an excellent design manufactured to normal Burris standards.
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 08-09-2014 at 09:26 PM.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    az
    Posts
    207
    I do 15 inch pounds on the rings and 25 to 30 inch pounds on the bases. never had a scope move and that is everything from 22 to 50 bmg.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Central NH
    Posts
    770
    A call to Leupold years ago got me the reply: "our rings do not require any lapping". Oh yeah, then why does each and every scope that come out of them have signs of being crimped at the edges? I am convinced that lapping is the key to proper scope mounting. The manufacturers just don't want to admit any imperfection in their system. Once done properly, fasteners torqued to a reasonable figure and thread locker applied, you will no doubt be good to go.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Clark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    On an island in a lake in a rainforest of liberals
    Posts
    755
    I take 5 or 10 scoped guns to the range per year that I have not shot since I mounted the scope.
    I take tools with me and help out others having trouble.
    Clearly half the time I have trouble and half the time others have trouble is when the screws that clamp the bases to the receiver are loose.
    A symptom is two holes over here on the target followed by two holes over there.
    In contrast it is odd how seldom rings are loose on the base.
    In contrast it is also odd how seldom rings are loose on the scope.

    Why do those base to receiver clamping screws alone seem to need to be cleanen, loctited, and torqued?

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bloomfield, Nebraska
    Posts
    6,072
    I have always used clear fingernial polish as it breaks loos easier than loctite and seems to hold just as well. I do the threads and a small dab in the rings too.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Monterey Tennessee
    Posts
    2,030
    Back in the 1970's I had a Remington XP in .308 and had problems with the scope moving. Took the rings apart and put a dab of rubber cement on each ring piece and tightened everything back up - scope never moved again. Best part is you can remove the dried glue with a fingernail.
    East Tennessee

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check