Best so far in my 30-30 Marlin.

[Remiel]

Can't add anything, never had any leading at all with all the boolits I have shot from the Marlin.
I also get the gun blazing hot because being lazy, I put up enough targets and move from load to load. Been too hot outside and the gnats drive me crazy so sessions are short. I swear the bugs drive Humvee's down there! Got a huge welt on my fore head.
Remiel, welcome, I see it is your first post. You will get to understand all of us and see that we really care. You might have much work to do but the answers are here if you search.
We will not ignore any questions either, you might get a poke in the ribs now and then but if the guys put up with me, they will put up with anyone!
Soon you will understand everyone.
The Marlin can be a chore because of the shallow rifling and bores are larger so fit is important. Many factory molds cast too small but the RCBS 150 I bought is correct and some Lyman molds will do it. Depends on whether cherries were re-sharpened when the molds were cut.
But right here you will find the best mold makers to be found. Also those that sell beeswax and a source for lanolin cheap. Wall Mart has the rest. Make your own lube and cast your own boolits.

Pokes in the ribs i am used to, its all part of the learning curve. i don't have any casting gear yet and if i start it will be with borrowed equipment for a time until i get my own. as far as powder all i have is IMR 4895, all i could get in my area haven't decided on a boolit yet, just looking to learn and see what i can find out.

[44man]

True my boolits are kind of heavy, just came out that way, I can't predict what the boolit will be. But I have been to 7/8" with 4895. It works fine. I think it was the mixed primers the other day. I am running out of stuff, got the notice from Midsouth about primers, started to order and kept getting a message that secure site failed, something in my computer that I can't find. I went to phone an order and the phones were out, still from the storm we had. Primers now out of stock again.
I want to get some more done and chrono today.

[357maximum]

Jim

Computers can be just plain evil....I truly believe the one I am currently using is Female and at certain times...well it just do not wanna do what it normally does.

I have been a light for caliber boolit/bullet freak most of my handloading life....over the past few years I am seeing the light however thanks do very determined and patient friends. Sometimes a heavier boolit/bullet just makes other "variables" in the equation "easier" and more "friendly" to work with. On occassion the heavy boolit makes things possible that otherwise are considered impossible" by some because of the way they change/alter/enhance burn rate. Heavy boolits are real good way to make short barrels do things and remove/lessen hurdles. Just another way of changing the variables that some say do not exist or choose to ignore........... Use what works and be MERRY.

[DrCaveman]

Remiel

Good to see you back! Nice responses, it shows you are indeed listening, and learning.

As for figuring out microgroove barrels, there are several old threads on this forum that discuss that issue in detail.

Id recommend copying 44man's procedure here, especially the sizing (.311") and the water dropping (pretty hard, 18 or greater bhn probably).

My own experience with a bit older marlin 336 showed a 200 gr boolit, sized .311", with a solid load of h414, shot real well and moved fast. 44man has me now wanting to try the 3031 (if it is still available where it was before).

Bottom line: make sure you get a mold that can drop .311" boolits or larger. You can always size them down if need be

[44man]

I feel the best thing I did was get rid of run out due to neck thickness variances. I can roll my loads without wobble.
It is said it is not needed with hunting rifles but there are no flies making the brass even in any rifle. Lead will not pull straight if started off center.
I use the RCBS neck turning tool, easiest ever to use. I just remove brass from the thick side and the cutter rarely cuts on the other side much. Most cut about 3/4 of the way around.
Just like revolvers, brass can be your curse.
Brass will shoot better fire forming after cutting too.
Brass in a lever gun needs trimmed often too, flex in the action but you still want to size just enough for easy bolt closing, I do not run all the way to FL.
BR basics really do work in lever guns.
I never bought 30-30 brass, all are pick ups. I don't even have enough of one brand so some are WW and some Rem or Fed.
Just do what is needed and don't pucker your butt. Just remember if you start a boolit off center, it stays that way. It will be a flier and it is caused by the brass. Just like a soft boolit in a revolver will not pull the cylinder.

[357maximum]

Jim


#46 .......Most excellent post....thank you

[C. Latch]

Nothing will replace 3031 in the old .222. 1/2" groups at 250 yards from old Rem rifle. 4064 was the powder in the .220 Swift. I could not hit a crow with the .222 over 300 yards but the swift was good to over 400 for a crow and good for chucks over 600.

When I was young and knew everything, I had a 700 in .220 Swift that preferred 3031 over 4064. I don't remember the charge weight exactly, but it would stack Sierra 55-grain boattails with remington brass, cci BR primers, and a large amount of 3031. Quarter-inch groups (100 yards) were common. Everything I shot at with that rifle just up and died, and quickly. That load averaged 3865' at 10' from the muzzle.

I later hit a money crunch and sold the rifle, and sometimes I miss it.

[44man]

When I was young and knew everything, I had a 700 in .220 Swift that preferred 3031 over 4064. I don't remember the charge weight exactly, but it would stack Sierra 55-grain boattails with remington brass, cci BR primers, and a large amount of 3031. Quarter-inch groups (100 yards) were common. Everything I shot at with that rifle just up and died, and quickly. That load averaged 3865' at 10' from the muzzle.

I later hit a money crunch and sold the rifle, and sometimes I miss it.

I used the 60 gr Hornady in the pre 64 Swift, mod 70. never had to see a hit, heard it. A crow at over 400 yards to see wings float out of a tree, rest was GONE! Amazing gun, wish I still had it. I used the B&L Balvar 24 on it, best scope ever made. My pain to this day is the loss of the scope.

[Remiel]

i will be doin a lot of listening and learning, as of yet i do not have the coin for my own gear yet, so for now its research, research, and more research

[44man]

i will be doin a lot of listening and learning, as of yet i do not have the coin for my own gear yet, so for now its research, research, and more research

Get a Lee 20# production pot, a Lyman ladle and a Lee mold. Cheapest way and they work. Cast iron pot on a stove with a ladle works too. Billions of boolits were cast on camp fires.

[Remiel]

Get a Lee 20# production pot, a Lyman ladle and a Lee mold. Cheapest way and they work. Cast iron pot on a stove with a ladle works too. Billions of boolits were cast on camp fires.

I need to get the go ahead from the wife first, but its on my list

[44man]

I need to get the go ahead from the wife first, but its on my list

Life not easy and being on SS I know all about it. But I shoot my big revolvers up to the .500 JRH at 10 cents a shot. What I bought all these years has paid for itself 1000 times over. You need to spend a little but go look at factory ammo prices once.
Even the guns I shoot meant selling a lot that I will always miss. Some are worth more then my home today.

[butch2570]

I need to get the go ahead from the wife first, but its on my list

Seeking Forgiveness is easier than Seeking Permission!!

[44man]

From day one, my wife has handled the money and paid bills. It worked. The house was paid off much quicker and as bills from Visa come in, she pays it off. We even have a little in the bank.
I still have to ask when I need something.
I have $7 in my wallet now, set aside for some chew. (She doesn't know that, good thing she can't use a puter!)
My riches is a box of pennies on the shelf!

[Three44s]

Remiel,

I'll second 44man's advice on getting a lee mold.

There are folks here that rant about them and those of us that revere them.

Don't panic about leading ........ and don't be afraid of your Micro groove.

The way I started in cast was to begin with revolvers. You see the larger the bore, the easier it is to get your feet wet at this game.
And there is no easier way to get into revolvers than with the tumble lube series of molds. Long barrels are harder to see if you are clean or not and more work to de-lead if you should get in that situation.

In short what I do starting with a new to me revolver is to take a piece of white paper and lay it on the recoil shield in good over head light. You peer down the muzzle and you can see very well by tilting the bore axis such that the paper is illuminated.

For cleaning I use copper chore boy, CorrosionX and JB or USP bore paste.

When I get to the point where it's not leading appreciably .... I drop the abrasive bore paste (JB) but continue with the CorrosionX.

My apologies to 44man for hijacking his thread!

Three 44s

[Remiel]

Seeking Forgiveness is easier than Seeking Permission!!

She is an avid shooter too, and i have found its better to ask first, much easier to deal with than the quest for forgivness

[Remiel]

Remiel,

I'll second 44man's advice on getting a lee mold.

There are folks here that rant about them and those of us that revere them.

Don't panic about leading ........ and don't be afraid of your Micro groove.

The way I started in cast was to begin with revolvers. You see the larger the bore, the easier it is to get your feet wet at this game.
And there is no easier way to get into revolvers than with the tumble lube series of molds. Long barrels are harder to see if you are clean or not and more work to de-lead if you should get in that situation.

In short what I do starting with a new to me revolver is to take a piece of white paper and lay it on the recoil shield in good over head light. You peer down the muzzle and you can see very well by tilting the bore axis such that the paper is illuminated.

For cleaning I use copper chore boy, CorrosionX and JB or USP bore paste.

When I get to the point where it's not leading appreciably .... I drop the abrasive bore paste (JB) but continue with the CorrosionX.

My apologies to 44man for hijacking his thread!

Three 44s

i have a wish list and i will add those to it, its not something i can do right away, but i plan to work up to it in time.

[Catshooter]

Remiel,

I too am on a fixed income so I understand.

Be aware though that there is a storm approaching. When the Presidential election cycle starts up soon I expect that Hillary will run. If she does you can be fairly sure that all the things you need will start disappearing and increasing in price.

There are rifle powders showing up on shop shelves now. We still aren't seeing any pistol/shotgun powders though.

I would plan accordingly. In fact I put my money where my mouth was. Ten years ago I saw both retirement (meaning a smaller income) and the Liberals coming. I buckled down and bought, bought, bought. It wasn't easy. I sold some goodies to help finance it too. But the long ugly years of the Obama scare shortages affected me not at all unless I wanted to start up with a new caliber.

You know your own situation and what you can and can't do. Just a word to the wise that I hope can help.


Cat

[triggerhappy243]

I'd be proud as a rooster if i could shoot cast that well. the marlin has micro-groove rifling? great job.

[Loudenboomer]

I have $7 in my wallet now, set aside for some chew. (She doesn't know that, good thing she can't use a puter!)
My riches is a box of pennies on the shelf!


44man you have found happiness in being a "Simple kind of man" Something a fork lift load of money cant buy.