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Thread: more on Lee tumble lube

  1. #41
    Boolit Master


    Ranch Dog's Avatar
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    If the Alox will flow back into the bottle, I let it. If it doesn't, it gets cut with mineral spirits until it does.
    Michael

  2. #42
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    Lube after cast and cool, size while lube is still wet.... Lube again let dry over night minimum. I've never had a major problem with any of my seating dies building up lube and i check OAL regularly... Possibly using too much.. Or i'm just not paying attention I gotta take a good look inside my seating dies and see if there is some buildup of snot.. I never worried about it because i never have to change my seat depth.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master Cayoot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranch Dog View Post
    If the Alox will flow back into the bottle, I let it. If it doesn't, it gets cut with mineral spirits until it does.
    I'm talking about the dried up alox that you scrap off the wax paper with a putty knife. Do you just drop the pieces back in the alox container with the liquid stuff, or do you find a way to (re)liquify the dried up alox before you put it back in the bottle?

    Thanks

    Bary
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  4. #44
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Cayoot View Post
    I'm talking about the dried up alox that you scrap off the wax paper with a putty knife. Do you just drop the pieces back in the alox container with the liquid stuff, or do you find a way to (re)liquify the dried up alox before you put it back in the bottle?
    Barry,

    As soon as I finish that second coat, I start picking the bullets up and move them aside to dry. That is what I'm scraping up with the putty knife. It is still very wet.

    When I come back after the drying period and pickup the bullets for sizing, I actually wipe the wax paper off with a rag. The Alox is more of a solid but the rag will pick it up. I keep these rags in a container and use them not only in my reloading room but in my home, barn and out on the ranch... anywhere a corrosion fighter/lube is needed. The rags are old athletic socks.
    Michael

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by mroliver77 View Post
    I used to really slather the boolits up good with LLA. It sometimes took a week for them to dry. "sigh". After being set straight about it I started thinning it and using a very thin coat. This works well but I hate trying to stand all the boolits up on wax paper. The boolits I had with gobs of the stuff on I added some mineral spirits and lwft set covered overnight. I then added new boolits and tumbled until I had the desired coating on all. I still cannot understand how tumble lubing is considered fast. Standing them all up is a pain for me. I usually managed to knock them over a couple times too. The Star sizer wades through piles of boolits in no time! There is a fellow at gunshow that sells cast bullets at a very resonable price. Willbird and I have tried them and get lots of leading. I asked what alloy he uses and "HARD" is all he can say. He also sizes .38 to .357 and .30 to .308 etc. Nice looking bullets too and very HARD!! Buy garsh do they lead.To use up the few K that I had I tumbled in LLA and it helped. A friend had his Security Six all leaded up and asked me how to clean it. I fitted My boollit in MY alloy with FWFL and fired a cylindr full. Barrel was sparkly clean! I told him it was the Felix lubes magical qualities. There are a couple aplications where I will try Ranch Dogs Dipping aplication. I thought mebbe after it is dry apply a coat of Johnson Paste wax to seal it with a harder coating. Or just dump it all in the Star............


    When I first started , I would stand the bullets on there little bottoms , after I tumble lubed them with LLA .

    Being lazy , rightly or wrongly , I just pour them out on a walley world sack , that I spread out on the floor . Put a box fan on the floor , blowing on them , to accelerate the " curing " process ( LLA seems to never really dry ) .

    The last batch I tried last nite , I uses Johnson Paste Wax on 7 batches of different kinds of bullets . Seven wally world sacks on the floor " drying " , with the fan blowing on them .

    The JPW has a different stink than LLA , but it still stinks .

    My reloading room / computer room is a concerted single car garage . So the stink is some what of an issue . As long as I make a good faith effort to minimize / contain it , the wife does not say much . I try not to do this very often .

    I live in a dusty climate ( at least part of the year it is dusty ) . So leaving them outside to " dry " , un-attended , is not a good option .

    God bless
    Wyr
    Last edited by WyrTwister; 03-09-2008 at 08:34 PM.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranch Dog View Post
    I've started to recover the Alox and let it flow back into the bottle. I use a putty knife to scrape up the row of excess Alox.


    Notice the paper. Every bit of the excess Alox has been recovered. I used two Jello-O cups (4 oz. ea.) of Alox to dip these 425 bullets and returned one cup!
    How do the results of dipping compare to just a second tumble lubing ?

    God bless
    Wyr

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy guninhand's Avatar
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    I can't believe this thread has gone this far without someone mentioning that they dip the lubed bullets in mica to stop unwanted stickiness/gumming-up.

  8. #48
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    For those of us who are not so frugal as to scrape up the runoff Alox lube, maybe diluting it and returning it to the bottle, White label Lube has it in 32 oz. for 9.50 and 9.80 shipping for up to 5 bottles. I have no monetary interest in this company, it beats Lee's price by a mile. DALE

  9. #49
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    Good stuff RD! Thanks!
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  10. #50
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by WyrTwister View Post
    How do the results of dipping compare to just a second tumble lubing ?

    God bless
    Wyr
    WyrTwister,

    The second tumble would continue the build up of lube on the nose of the bullet and sometimes requires a third tumble to fill the grooves completely like the "dip" does.
    Michael

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by guninhand View Post
    I can't believe this thread has gone this far without someone mentioning that they dip the lubed bullets in mica to stop unwanted stickiness/gumming-up.
    I finally have purchased some mica to give it a try. Most of the bullets I cast doen't sit around very long before they end their life in my target berms.
    Michael

  12. #52
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    I tried the mica trick and it worked, but mica is expensive and I read somewhere that the dust could cause respiratory problems if inhaled. Now I use grocery store baby powder and sprinkle a little over the tumble lubed boolits in a quart freezer bag before transferring to a storage container. The baby powder eliminates stickiness and lube buildup in my seating die stems. A pint container for $1.49 will dust a lot of boolits.

    Charlie

  13. #53
    Boolit Buddy azcoyhunter's Avatar
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    I like the idea of baby powder, I think I will try it.

    Do you think they will store good with baby powder on them?

    The most I ever store a cast boolit, is about 2 weeks.

    Clint
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  14. #54
    Boolit Buddy LET-CA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuebner View Post
    SNIP . . Now I use grocery store baby powder and sprinkle a little over the tumble lubed boolits in a quart freezer bag before transferring to a storage container. The baby powder eliminates stickiness and lube buildup in my seating die stems. . . SNIP
    Somehow the smell of baby powder at the firing line just doesn't seem right. I've come to expect certain smells when I'm shooting and baby-fresh talcum isn't anywhere near the top of the list!

  15. #55
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  16. #56
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    I have to concede that some of the groups that I've shot resemble SOMETHING found if a baby's diaper, but I don't think it's the baby powder............
    Rick
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  17. #57
    Boolit Master

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    guys i have used the Lee for several years have yet to clean a seating die try this it works for me keep boolets cool [around 65 70 f ] heat the lee lube to around 110 f put boolets in a jar [ i use a peanut butter plastic jar] just enough lube to cover [about 2 tsp per 200] shake for 5 min everything should be coated dump out on wax paper and stand each up on base let sit for 2 days to dry in a 60 to 70 f area[basement is where i load] there will not be much on bottom because of the wax paper amd most will run off of boolet to form a ring at base this will stay on wax paper the groves will retain enough and the rest will be forced in on loading have lubed thousands that way with no problem try it youal like it rick

  18. #58
    Boolit Master jameslovesjammie's Avatar
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    Ranch Dog,

    I know your bullets all have the tumble lube design, but have you ever used your dipping process on a bullet of a non t/l design?

  19. #59
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by jameslovesjammie View Post
    Ranch Dog,

    I know your bullets all have the tumble lube design, but have you ever used your dipping process on a bullet of a non t/l design?
    Sorry for the delay responding, too much ranch work here.

    Yes I have, works pretty good. I just lubed a bunch of Dr. A's MM bullets to run through my 1895G. Worked very well.
    Michael

  20. #60
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    Cool Corn Starch

    Great stuff. Put the lubed boolits into a container and add a spoonful and swish 'em around. Works on LLA and lubrized boolits as well. Keeps 'em nice and easy to handle and the corn starch does not mess up the dies or the press. Save the container after you dump out the boolits and use it again. After a while you will not have to add any corn starch as the remaining from the previous uses stays in the bottom. Cheap and easy.
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check