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Thread: a trick for tumble powder coating

  1. #861
    Boolit Master
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    Gonna have to check out your arms next time I see you, Popeye. I can't see many people shaking a half-gallon jug with too many bullets in it!
    Loren

  2. #862
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockshooter View Post
    Gonna have to check out your arms next time I see you, Popeye. I can't see many people shaking a half-gallon jug with too many bullets in it!
    Loren
    Next time I make a run of boolits, I’ll have to give one a try. Could take a while to fill it up. I might have to see if I can get Don to assist?

  3. #863
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingmonkey35 View Post
    This has been discussed on a different post.

    Large mix. But you will find a majority of people use a shake n bake method with standing the bullet up.

    Less do a bake in a pile method as it leaves divits and spots.

    And even less that use ESPC. Wich is still the best.

    You can have great results with whatever method you choose. But outside factors come into play.

    Humidity. And brand of powder being key.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    I stand the bigger boolits (like .40+ rifle boolits) up but just dump the 9mm’s out onto non-stick foil and the only “troubles” I get is if 2 stick together. Mine still get coated all around and even the big ones get coverage of paint on the bottoms. I use Smoke’s powder and bake at 375F for 10 minutes. Shake and swirl for a maximum of one minute with black BB’s. I face the door of my oven to the North (towards the shooting range) and make sure to take a whiz before going outside in the winter. Also, wear my lucky casting pants. Nothing else too special...

  4. #864
    Boolit Bub
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    I might try a cheap harbor freight tumbler and the bbs.

  5. #865
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    I put smaller plastic containers in my rotary tumbler to keep the tumbler clean.

  6. #866
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    I put smaller plastic containers in my rotary tumbler to keep the tumbler clean.
    Thats a good idea. Thanks for the tip.

  7. #867
    Boolit Buddy Walstr's Avatar
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    Greetings; No AirSoft BB's 'round here now, but anxious to try PC'g. Rinsed 90 215gr 45's, dried in oven, shaked & swirled and tried picking them with Nitrile glove coated in powder, the powder rubbed off where touched. I'll get some Blk BB's ASAP & skinny needle nose pliers, if I may ask a tech question...Is there a temperature where the powder (Eastwood) actually "flows" to fill in tiny voids, say 300ish, or if not, then just cook'em at 400 & move on?


    I just had an idear; thin piano wire bent to form a custom 'tweezer' to fit the grooves?!? I'll post results. Anyway, here's a pic of the batch I mentioned. NOTE: I started using the Hot Pink 'cause it was on sale in their "Ugly Color" bin, but that looked tooo 'happy', so added some black; wife asked if Burnt Grape was what I was going for, well "Yes, of course"! These will suffice for plinking for sure - right?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks pards.
    Been loading 6.5 CM for ELD, learning to load Mosin Nagant & .308/7.62x51
    Caster & CWW / Lead miner.
    Mountain Mold 45-70-405, 80% Meplat, sized .461" dia. for Marlin 1895GS
    Lyman mold #429421 "Elmer Keith" style 255gr, Dbl Cavity; [for .44 Mag, S&W 629, Alox lubed]
    Lyman #356402, 9mm, Sngl Cavity [for a friend]
    LEE #90282, 12ga Drive Key, 7/8oz Slug [for: Son's 3-Gun]
    LEE #90349, 452-255RF, 6 Cavity [for 45 Colt & 45 ACP; Alox lubed]
    LEE #90697, 453-200RF, ditto

  8. #868
    Boolit Master
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    I have had best luck with powder coat sold by guy on here—Smoke something.

  9. #869
    Boolit Buddy BUFFALOW RED's Avatar
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    So I'm Doing shake and bake with smokes powder and was wondering dont you guys want the base of the bullets powder coated also. .401 s&w or is it just mainly what runs in the riflings I've been tumbling and then stacking them on their nose in a plate that has holes drilled in it thinking I needed the powder coating on the bottom more than the nose. Baked 400 for 25 min,
    Thought's welcome

  10. #870
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    if you are dry tumbling the bases will be coated as well.
    If using non stick aluminum foil let the bullets fully cool and you can take you hand wiping across and all the bullets will fall over all coated all the way around . if you try to remove the bullets while hot the foil will tear.
    You can also use parchment paper
    [SIZE=4][B]Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder

    I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!

    http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH

    I am not crazy my mom had me tested

    Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
    and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!

  11. #871
    Boolit Buddy BUFFALOW RED's Avatar
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    Ok Thanks
    NRA Life Member
    learn to make your own black powder collect bp arms as there presently not recorded
    smokless is a fad its fading fast, helped along by obama

  12. #872
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    Ever since a friend told me he just tosses them on a basket made of 1/4" hardware cloth, that's all I ever do now and they turn out great. Try it. They all get coated evenly.

  13. #873
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newtire View Post
    Ever since a friend told me he just tosses them on a basket made of 1/4" hardware cloth, that's all I ever do now and they turn out great. Try it. They all get coated evenly.


    That’s what I do, usually about an inch thick layer of bullets in basket, take out oven, and shake occasionally to separate. I don’t water quench after coating because I want to retain BHN.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The unexamined life is not worth living....Socrates
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    Fast is fine, but accuracy is FINAL!....Wyatt Earp

  14. #874
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    Never tried more than one layer and only water quench I ever have done is when I drop them from the mould. I see lots of different ways to do this. As long as they turn out good boolits, I'd say it's got to be good.

  15. #875
    Boolit Buddy rickt300's Avatar
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    Well I tried it. Failed the first time I tried it around page 16 of this thread. This time I added yellow airsoft BB's and used a black plastic powder bottle from IMR that originally held IMR 3031. I used Harbor Freight Red and shook and swirled for a while. Actually got a good coating. I did some swirling with the bottom of the plastic powder bottle touching the rug to get a static charge started. All I have to do is bake now and size.

  16. #876
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    Just curious, has anyone tried this with lead shot or lead BB’s? I’ve read most of the thread and haven’t seen it mentioned yet.

  17. #877
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    Hey OD Dave, check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2K78TT_V3M

  18. #878
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    I just saw on a Facebook group someone suggesting using balloons or rubber bands to generate static instead of the airsoft bbs. Has anyone here tried that? If so, what was your experience? Did it work as well/better? It would be of interest to me to use a few balloons rather than bbs as it'd be MUCH easier to separate the static generator from the boolits.

  19. #879
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    My curious (show me) attitude has floated to the surface again... I've never looked into the number designation embossed on the bottoms of most every (petroleum based) bottle we all use. There was an informative video awhile back that said use only bottles that are designated #5 on the bottom. "Self" asked, why number 5 only??? HMMM ..engage the all knowing "Google Encyclopedia" for all answers. I found out, "plastic" bottles come in a range of 1-7. #1 and #2 are the most biodegradable. #3-#6 are progressively less biodegradable. #7 is whatever else that is "mystery" junk/stuff. Why is #5 the stuff of choice for bottles to tumble PCd bullets in and why/what makes different (plastic) BBs more or less desirable? (Drum Roll) #5s are made of "Polypropeline" it's the only common bottle made of "poly". This substance does not decompose aka PVC pipe (#5). So, pray tell what are these plastic BBs made of? More research into Amazon... they sell many BBs from many different manufacturers. Curious revelation, they sell BBs that are (Green New Deal) biodegradable and these are relatively most expensive (twice $). The adds are eager to advertise "biodegradable". The cheaper ones don't claim biodegradable. Getting more curious the farther down the rabbit hole I go... so, I expanded the pictures on Amazon trying to find the chemical makeup of all the choices. "No" information (proprietary?). Being biodegradable I assume the expensive ones are of the #1 or #2 class plastics. Now I'm getting to the bottom of my mystery... Polypropeline creates static electricity when agitated with, in the presence of certain other organic items but why can't I get a chemical makeup of any BBs? OK I'll go in another door... I Googled "Polypropeline Balls". HMMM wow! All the balls one could ever want in sizes and colors to match the rainbow and they're in the same price range as all the "Mystery Balls" one might covet. My question to "self" why wonder if/why different Balls are superior to others? Walmart black? Makes me wonder... but at least I'm on a more educated path in this world of cast bullet chemistry, I bought 2,000 white ones... Use this info as y'all see fit.
    Last edited by Pahaska; 04-12-2022 at 03:46 PM.

  20. #880
    Boolit Master
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    If you want to powder coat, don't overthink it. #5 works for me so I do it. Some people don't use bbs even. What works is what I'm sticking to.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check