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Thread: Water-based wax brass rinse?

  1. #1
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    Water-based wax brass rinse?

    I just started SS tumbling a couple of weeks ago and am absolutely SOLD on the STM setup, far better than the citric acid solution baths followed by plain cob/walnut that I've been using for several years now.

    When I first ordered this setup, I got the idea to wax the brass before loading so I could store it indefinitely without it tarnishing. My usual routine is to clean loaded ammo in a towel dampened with mineral spirits and then roll it around in another clean towel lightly dampened with watered-down Nu-Finish, then roll again in a dry, clean towel to polish it. After digging around on the internet and finding I wasn't the only one with the wet wax rinse idea, but also finding that no one else was getting any good answers either, I decided to ask here.

    It seems that using the Armor-All wash'n'wax car soap in the tumble process has been done by several people, but what about the rinse water? It makes no sense to me to put wax in while cleaning and then rinse it all off in the rinse bath. Has anyone done any testing with water-soluble wax in the RINSE water, so that a light sealing film of wax (or polymer car "wax") is left on the brass after it dries?

    Gear

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    I have only done a couple of batches using Mequiar’s Wash & Wax in the tumble process. It does seem to retain some wax on the brass so it should reduce or eliminate the tarnish. My next batch I will be you the wash & wax in the rinse using hot water to aid in the drying. I am hoping the wax prevents water spot with the hot water. It’s going to be a couple of weeks until I have time to test.

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    Gear, I add Armor All to the clean water once the suds have been rinsed off and then dry the brass in a dehydrator. Brass stays shiny and tarnishing is low. The hard water where I live does no favors when rinsing and then drying.
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    I could well be wrong, but I wonder if the only way to ensure spotless brass may be the towel-tumble-dry method or using just straight rainwater/distilled water or same with some citric acid in it like I already do. I'll have to try some various "wax" solutions and see what happens, I was just wondering if this ground has already been plowed and time-tested.

    Gear

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    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    I got the idea to wax the brass before loading so I could store it indefinitely without it tarnishing
    Gear, I rotary tumble with burnishing solution - ceramic triangle media and a squirt of Dawn Ultra Concentrated Dish Washing Soap. In a given year average more than 5,000 cases.
    Out of the tumber, rinse with hot water and dry the cases wrapped in a towel with a hair dry - takes about 2 minutes. They go in my tobacco cans with 2 or 3 desiccants that I get from the pharmacy for free.
    The brass in the cans are still bright and shiny if not exposed to humidity. BTW, does your glassware out of the dishwasher ever have water spots using a good dish washing soap?

    I would never use any product that contains wax cleaning my brass. One wants non oily or non waxy brass that can build up on the walls of the chamber or throats
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    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    In my experience, after wet tumbling in auto wash & wax and rinsing multiple times in cold tap water, then immediately spin drying to remove 99% + of the moisture, water droplets and water spots are gone, and Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	101751the brasses retain a wax coating that keeps them bright and highly shiny. We have soft water here. Tarnish does not seem to return, at least in several months. There are zero water spots anywhere on the brasses as moisture was removed by spin drying.

    The pic does the talking about the results.

    In my situation, at least, nothing more need be added to the rinse water as the wash & wax in the tumble drum does the trick for me. I couldn't be more pleased with the results.
    Last edited by Bayou52; 04-08-2014 at 07:49 AM.
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    Well, thanks for the replies Gents. I use only rainwater for the house, so no spots on anything. Dishes are done with a teaspoon of Cascade.

    I knew somebody was going to mention chamber buildup or bolt thrust issues. I've been waxing my finished ammo for many years with both Turtle Wax and Nu-finish, including high-pressure rifle ammo, and if you don't get stupid about how much you put on, there is absolutely zero issue with it. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, no problem, but I'm going to continue to wax mine (somehow).

    Guess I'll get to spearmentin'.

    Gear

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    I'm still pretty new to tumbling but have pretty much decided that from here on out, cases get deprimed, tumbled with pins, water, and citric acid for 1/2 hour to remove residue, then ~3 hours with pins, water, and AA wash'n'wax for 3-5 hours as needed (depending on how long it takes to get clean primer pockets), then removed from media and rolled on a towel to dry them.

    I've also thought that maybe a zippered heavy cloth bag could be used for drying; put cases in it, zip it up, throw it in the clothes dryer for a few minutes. That might dent cases, though.

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    I have been doing that for a while now and I also dry towel like you.It seems that after a while the brass is easier to clean also.I usuall don't do it until after I load and it also keeps the lead fron tarnishingas quick.
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    Quote Originally Posted by C. Latch View Post
    I'm still pretty new to tumbling but have pretty much decided that from here on out, cases get deprimed, tumbled with pins, water, and citric acid for 1/2 hour to remove residue, then ~3 hours with pins, water, and AA wash'n'wax for 3-5 hours as needed (depending on how long it takes to get clean primer pockets)
    In my experience, the sweet spot is 4 hours of wet tumbling per batch for impeccably clean brasses inside, outside and primer pockets.
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    I'm coming up with four hours as a pretty firm number as well to get the primer pockets and insides completely clean. Doesn't seem to matter how much brass, how much soap/citric acid, or caliber particularly, it just takes a certain amount of time. Two hours won't totally get old burnished patina off, either. I use a wall timer now and just set it on four hours unless just doing a touch-up on prepped brass that was previously cleaned.

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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    I'm coming up with four hours as a pretty firm number as well to get the primer pockets and insides completely clean. Doesn't seem to matter how much brass, how much soap/citric acid, or caliber particularly, it just takes a certain amount of time. Two hours won't totally get old burnished patina off, either. I use a wall timer now and just set it on four hours unless just doing a touch-up on prepped brass that was previously cleaned.

    Gear
    Good idea on that wall timer, Gear!
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  13. #13
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    It depends on primers, too.

    Some weeks ago I tumbled some Hornady 30-06 brass. I had three headstamps, one was Hornady, one was Hornady in a smaller font, and one was Frontier. Tumbled them all for the same ~4 hours and one headstamp had perfectly clean pockets, one less so, one still dirty.

    On the other hand, all of that brass was fired as new ammo over a decade ago; IIRC the youngest of that brass got the cleanest. Maybe the fouling hardened over time. Maybe the primers Hornady uses have changed over time.

    And in the last few weeks I've tumbled several batches of brass that had .45 Colts in them; my full-power loads in Starline brass with CCI primers, and Tula primers in everything else. The CCI residue is gone in 4 hours. Tula, they still have a bit of residue in them, even when tumbled at the same time in the same water.

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    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    Those are interesting observations about the type of primer and the degree of clean. Now that you've pointed this out, I'll try to take a closer notice.

    Thanks
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    I've been using a Thumler's Model B High Speed with pins, Dawn and LemiShine to clean my cowboy 45 Colt cases. The tumbler is plugged into a digital timer selectable for ON or 1, 2, 4 or 8 hours. My practice has been to tumble first for 1 hour then change the water, the second stretch going for 2 hours. The filthy cases come out brilliant and clean inside and out. It's another step, but it shortens the process.

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    FWIW: I use 3 Tablespoons Armor All ultra shine and 1/8 teaspoon Lemi-Shine for 4 hours. several water rinses. Shake back and forth in towel and let dry under ceiling fan overnight. I did a batch of .38 Sp last week of 2013 and they are in open plastic bucket still shiny. I'm happy with this method
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bayou52 View Post
    In my experience, the sweet spot is 4 hours of wet tumbling per batch for impeccably clean brasses inside, outside and primer pockets.
    +1 on 4 hours
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    Boolit Master on Heavens Range
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    The only issue I have with the Armor All Wash&Wax is that it doesn't seem to clean the brass as good as Dawn. And yes, I use a 1/4 teaspoon of Lemishine in 2 gallons of water when I wet tumble brass
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    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonz View Post
    The only issue I have with the Armor All Wash&Wax is that it doesn't seem to clean the brass as good as Dawn. And yes, I use a 1/4 teaspoon of Lemishine in 2 gallons of water when I wet tumble brass
    Hi, Bonz -

    How long are your tumbling sessions using the auto wash & wax?

    In my experience at least, a full 4 hours of tumbling in Armor-All gives me the same degree of cleaning as Dawn - both are outstanding!
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bayou52 View Post
    Hi, Bonz -

    How long are your tumbling sessions using the auto wash & wax?

    In my experience at least, a full 4 hours of tumbling in Armor-All gives me the same degree of cleaning as Dawn - both are outstanding!
    Since my roll sizer arrived, I started to 1) tumble in dawn & leminshine for 2 hours 2) dry brass, deprime and roll size 3) tumble in Armor All Wash & Wax & Lemishine for 2 hours 4) towel wet brass and air dry under a ceiling fan
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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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