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Thread: Anyone Make Mold Lube?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Anyone Make Mold Lube?

    I'm looking for a recipe for mold lube....not bullet lube... I want to lube the mold when casting to keep it from binding or galling on the sprue plate and locating pins... I have the liquid bull plate, but would also like something in a solid form to just "touch" the areas to be lubed... thinking something like beeswax and graphite? Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    btroj's Avatar
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    No solids as the solids aren't always good, they tend to burn on. Beeswax will eventually burn on leaving a residue. Use a toothpick or a very slightly damp q-tip to apply when, and where needed with the liquid lubes.

    Try synthetic 2 stroke oil, Bullplate, or my favorite- Ester 100 AC oil from the auto parts store. Look up mould lube in the cast bullet section.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    btroj,

    Thanks very much for the info... when I did a search before I posted, I guess I was too generic and came up with a "heap" of posts to sort thru...I'll try the AC oil.... sounds like a winner.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


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    Heck I sell it and I am a vendor Check down below and click on the link.... It's cheep it's shipped free when ordering other hard to find stuff I sell at reasonable prices. Check out what you want and PM me for a price quote on shipping.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master



    Springfield's Avatar
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    I tired the ester oil a couple of weeks ago. It seemed to work fine as a mould lube but it stinks when the mould is hot, unlike all the 2-stroke oil I have tried. So back to the blue stuff for me. It was more expensive, too.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by randyrat View Post
    Heck I sell it and I am a vendor Check down below and click on the link.... It's cheep it's shipped free when ordering other hard to find stuff I sell at reasonable prices. Check out what you want and PM me for a price quote on shipping.
    I use to use 2 stroke oil. Then I got a small bottle of zip(?) from Randyrat. It works great and does not smoke as much as the 2 stroke oil. I got dumb and spilled about half of it and will need to get more before long.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    A half a bottle will still last most of your life..,all you need of ZIP lube is a Q tip and then wipe off as much as possible.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use the stuff that I got from randyrat. I am very happy with his stuff. And his service is great.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Bullshop's Avatar
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    And then there is always the original Bullplate from the original source Bullshop.
    If I may quote a comment from the stickies " often imitated never equaled"

  10. #10
    bhn22
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    I've heard of you!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


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    I sell the Zip lube for a convenience and Dan with Bull Shop is correct he has the "original bull Plate"

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    Anti-Seize from the auto parts store/hardware store works great, doesn't run, is inexpensive, and will last a very long casting session. I use the Permatex brand, and the temperature range is -60 to +1600 degrees. An outstanding product.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by '74 sharps View Post
    Anti-Seize from the auto parts store/hardware store works great, doesn't run, is inexpensive, and will last a very long casting session. I use the Permatex brand, and the temperature range is -60 to +1600 degrees. An outstanding product.
    I've been having good luck with Anti-Sieze also.

    Fred

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Dan Cash's Avatar
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    Beeswax with graphite works well. The wax burns off but is a carrier and binder for the graphite. It is easy to control when touching lubrication points so you don't end up lubricating the cavities. Easy to make too.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Substitute the graphite for molly and I think it works better/longer

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by '74 sharps View Post
    Anti-Seize from the auto parts store/hardware store works great, doesn't run, is inexpensive, and will last a very long casting session. I use the Permatex brand, and the temperature range is -60 to +1600 degrees. An outstanding product.
    This is what the instruction sheets that came with my last three "new" Lee double cavity moulds recomends, this and good old beeswax. It specifically states to use Permatex brand.
    Right now I'm still using synthetic two-stroke . But will pick up try some anti-sieze the next time I'm at the auto-parts store.

    Gary

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    LBT used to make sticks of lube. It looked like graphite in beeswax but I'm guessing. I use bullshop's since I lost the lbt lube.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Copper or silver variety of anti-seize?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTtimberline View Post
    Copper or silver variety of anti-seize?
    I typically use Bullplate, or some 2 cycle oil as sprue plate lube. I have even tried using dielectric grease.

    Yesterday, I decided to try breaking in a new aluminum mould using good old Permatex silver anti-seize as a mould pin and sprue plate lubricant.



    It worked fine with the mould, just like it does in automotive and other mechanical threads uses.

    Can't say that it smelled nice though, and it has the potential to make a big mess. It was easy to get anti-seize on your gloves, hands and clothes. (Just like when using it while wrenching)

    I liked how it performed well enough, but I didn't like the smell, or the silver residue that got all over the place. I think I'll be going back to using good old Bullplate. A little dab of Bullplate goes a long way on the end of a Q-tip.


    - Bullwolf

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