RotoMetals2Reloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters SupplyWideners
Titan ReloadingInline FabricationLoad DataLee Precision
Repackbox
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 36 of 36

Thread: Stick On WW XrF Data:

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Amarillo, Tx
    Posts
    688
    So, I'm seeing that I can treat SOWW about the same as COWW, PLUS they will respond to heat treating. Is that basically correct?

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,335
    That is incorrect.

    The painted SOWW are about the same as COWW.

    Unpainted SOWW while not pure Pb are close.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master



    cbrick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Kalifornia Escapee
    Posts
    8,034
    Quote Originally Posted by scottfire1957 View Post
    So, I'm seeing that I can treat SOWW about the same as COWW, PLUS they will respond to heat treating. Is that basically correct?
    That's wrong on both questions. When heat treating a lead alloy it's the antimony (Sb) that causes the increase in hardness and without Sb there will be no increase. Stick-on WW has from very little to no Sb and only a trace of tin (Sn). Most casters treat stick-on weights as pure lead and unless your a front stuffer purist it can be considered as pure. Clip-on weights if done properly can be oven heat treated as high as 30 BHN, the stickies little to no increase.

    I add 2% Sn to my WW alloys and even so the stick-on weights will age to about 7-8 BHN. Clip-on weights with 2% added Sn will age harden to 11-12 BHN. Thus a significant difference between the two. When processing raw WW's always separate the stick-on and clip-on weights and make ingots of both.

    A good average of clip-on weights is about 2% SB and 0.5% Sn. The stick-on weights will have at best a trace of either.

    Rick
    "The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

    "Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

    NRA Benefactor Life Member
    CRPA Life Member

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Amarillo, Tx
    Posts
    688
    Looking at BNE's photos, all three, there is a good mix of Sn, Sb and As in his samples. Heck, you throw sample 6 (I think) in the alloy calculator, you get a BHN of 12! By itself!

    I'm new, I admit. My usual practice is to mix 45-48# of COWW with 1# pewter. Looking at the alloy calculator, I'd be real close using either COWW or SOWW with the results posted . It would be BHN 8-14 vs 12-14, and with the pewter I'd have the Sn and Sb, along with the already As to heat treat or water quench.

    EDIT: All estimates, of course.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    157
    This is great stuff for those who are particular about their alloys! Me personally, I don't shoot much blackpowder so I have a stash of pure lead devoted to that; otherwise once I cull out zinc/steel WW's it's "everybody into the pool", stick-ons included. I think it's a fantastic thing when those with the resources, time or inclination actually do some solid analysis and share with everyone else here. Thanks much!!!

  6. #26
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    OR->LaGrange GA
    Posts
    1,543
    Glad I found this thread. I just finished sorting a bucket of WW's and was wondering how much softer the stick on type were.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy typz2slo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Texas Gulf Coast
    Posts
    122
    I just did a batch of sowws and ended up with 57lbs of 99.99% lead

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,948
    Today I rendered down my SOWW's and separated the ones as shown at the bottom of BNE's photo and info in post#1. Those ingots had a definitive "clink" when de-molded onto the cement. They look just like my 50/50 alloy, almost a galvanized look.

    The other SOWW's came out looking shiney like pure lead and "thudded" onto the cement.

    From 4 buckets of WW's, I got about 130 lbs of SOWW's and they ran just about 50-50 between the "clink" type and the "thud" type. This was my first time smelting stick-on WW's and is all new to me..
    Last edited by Yodogsandman; 05-15-2015 at 08:44 PM.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Somewhere in the woods of Central Oklahoma
    Posts
    469
    I know I'm a "little" late on this thread, but I just finished sorting wheel weights today and ended up with about 75# of the various stick-on weights. I'm getting ready to do my first smelt as soon as my pot gets here, so I'm wondering if I should separate the stick-ons by type, or can I just toss them all in one smelting pot? I have very few of the ones in the last column of the first photograph example. Would it be best to toss those in with the WW?
    Chris

  10. #30
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    TN USA
    Posts
    66
    I mix them all up, except for the last type. I throw those in with the COWW, because they have about the same amount of antimony. If you don't have a lot of them, just throw them in all the other SOWW. A little antimony won't hurt.

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Somewhere in the woods of Central Oklahoma
    Posts
    469
    Thanks. That's what I've done. So now all I have to do is wait on the pot I ordered from ncbearman.
    Chris

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by BNE View Post
    The Clip ons will take longer as there are a million of them.
    Great info, thank you for sharing.
    There are a few COWW that are most common in my experience. I get loads of the "P" and "MC" marked ones. A while back I separated a bucket by type and smelted each separately. They have differing characteristics and hardness. Some had a very sharp edge on the surface of the cooled ingots, while others had a much rounder edge or meniscus. Some were very shiny, some dull. I also got some reddish and bluish surface coloring on some.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20161021_163117393.jpg 
Views:	116 
Size:	48.4 KB 
ID:	180109
    They all made good boolit in the end. I wish I had access to an XrF to have accurate composition data.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,687
    I sorted a bucket of stick-on weights today and may have found a few new types. I tried to expand the pictures and I can't tell. Maybe if BNE sees this he can commit. If they are new I will gladly send them to you.




    All three cut like the softer stick-ons.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,687
    BNE just sent me the results of some samples that I sent for test. It seems that stick-on weight alloy is still about the same as it was 4 years ago when the samples were posted at the beginning of this thread. The two samples that I sent in were from ingots randomly selected from two 350# batches of weights.

    Sample #1 Sample #2
    PB - 99.7 PB - 99.4
    SB - 0.3 SB - 0.4
    SN - 0.0 SN - 0. 2

    These were 100% stick-on weights. They were not sorted by brand but the painted weights that usually test like clip-on weights were removed. These were mostly new looking weights and some were new and unused.

  15. #35
    Boolit Bub Rubino1988's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    32
    Nice!

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Plymouth County, IA
    Posts
    708
    Good info. Years ago I realized my soww ingots weren't as soft as I thought they should have been. The socc ingots shouldn't "ring" when dropped, but those would. Not sure how I figured out it was due to the few #6s in the melt...they have been going into the coww ingots ever since.
    Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check