MidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2RepackboxInline Fabrication
Load DataSnyders JerkyWidenersLee Precision
Reloading Everything Titan Reloading
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 41 to 60 of 71

Thread: Squib removal rod?

  1. #41
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Orange, VA NOW
    Posts
    6,524
    Quote Originally Posted by lt250r_86 View Post
    If you don't like wooden dowels thats fine. Worked fine in my case, cast bullet. I would never put a steel rod in any barrel, taped or not!
    In my abortive gunsmithing foray I had a fellow bring me a model 60 Marlin with a stuck bullet and a splintered wooden dowel (heavily soaked in oil and swollen) jammed in the barrel. Removing that was a mother bear. First I had to fabricate a 3/16" brass circular "saw" to grind the dowel out, then soak the bullet with penetrating oil over night, (I swear by kroil brand), then use a steel rod to tap the bullet out into the chamber. (always drive the boolit back the way it came, unless it is handing out the barrel.) I charged him #35 dollars and he hollered, but I had over four hours shop time in the job which ought to have run him 80 dollars.

    I would never recommend using a wooden dowel. Use a solid brass or steel rod with a wrapping of tape, and a bigger hammer.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kalif.
    Posts
    7,244
    Go to the Ture Value & buy a piece of 1/4-5/16 dia brass threaded rod, pretty cheap.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  3. #43
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,562
    I made my squib rod from 5/16 round stock working end s cupped and 12" long, the other end has a shoulder pinned and pressed on with a 1/12-2 pound slide hammer on it about 1 1/2" stroke. While Ive never needed it myself several club members have and its very good and easy to use. O ,ade it as I got tired of people borrowing my dewey rods and bending them

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
    barrabruce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Far Nth Qld Australia
    Posts
    1,989
    Sometimes I need to remove a bullet in the throat or a stuck case that my weak extractor won’t move.
    I carry a piece of 6" long 1/4" brass tube filled with lead.
    Went you let it go from the muzzle end it usually knocks things out.
    A bit of a run up and it removes more stuck things pretty well.
    I use it for breachseating as well.
    I just drop a bullet in one of my guns and tap it gentle with the rod to firmly place it on/in the lands.
    Most people think I’m luny anyway.
    But if I went hunting I’d take it along with me.
    Beats fencing wire anyday!
    Ha

  5. #45
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    East Coast
    Posts
    792
    I have only had one instance. Personally, I don't think it's something that should be fixed in the field. Normally those suckers are going to be wedged in there pretty good. I keep a length of dowel in my bag for extracting stuck rounds. I have some barrels that are keen to get a loaded case wedged halfway into the chamber and not budge.

  6. #46
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bloomfield, Nebraska
    Posts
    6,073
    A Brass bore size rod works best. I lightly cone the bullet end. I am still using one I made in 1972, I carry it in my range box and have loaned it out at the range many times.

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    106
    Definitely a brass rod. I keep one in my range box along with a small brass hammer along with an assortment of other tools that come in handy at the range.
    I've only had a couple in the last 30 years, having a few tools on hand made the difference between continue shooting and going home. Plus I've helped a number of others along the way.

  8. #48
    Cast Boolits Owner



    No_1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    N.E. Florida
    Posts
    12,610
    Everything I shoot is 9mm and larger so you will find a 12” long 5/16 aluminum rod in my range bag. I have only had to used it to remove a boolits after testing low pressure .38 special loads but will keep it in the bag for the future.
    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
    - Albert Camus -

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    North Central
    Posts
    2,514
    I've got a 1/4" aluminum rod that I wrapped some duct tape around to cushion it. Works fine.

  10. #50
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    St Louis Area
    Posts
    158
    +1 parson48

    Per Geargnasher’s “how to for poundcasting” Wrap the metal rod with a closely spiraled, single layer of electrician's tape to protect the bore, and build bore-diameter "bushings" for a reasonably snug, centering fit on the ends and middle of the rod if one layer of tape isn't sufficient to support the rod in the center of the bore. Good luck, Bill.

  11. #51
    Boolit Master

    pworley1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    3,266
    I use a hardwood dowel.
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  12. #52
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    760
    BIB = bullet in bore

    Squib load= Small quiet underpowered initialized bullet.

    BIB is bullet stuck in bore.
    Squib loads are shorter range than gallery loads for shooting a pest in a corner or ceiling or just shooting in a basement or tiny target range.Squib loads can kill close up. Used for many things, but they are not said to be a bullet stuck in a barrel.
    Mixup said to be attributed to shooters who disdain the use of earplugs as not being manly.
    "Only a girl scared of loud noises needs ear plugs!"
    They also make fun of squib loads saying "What good are they?"
    The Commandos shot sentry dogs with Squib loads because they could be effectively muffled by a silencer.Usually .32 caliber pistol shell wadcutter loaded down , but effective at close range.
    The almost deaf shooters think BIB and Squib are the same thing and even misquoted the terms in writing some latest shooting manuals and being accepted as common term.
    Many reloaders today always start loading with the MAX loads listed ,saying that is the factory load.
    Then other reloaders read the text saying use the starting load and work up.
    At least one loading book was put out that said that you must be careful or a squib load will blow your gun up by a bullet sticking in the barrel.
    If it's in the book , it must be true.
    Now I read more about shooting than actual shooting so I'm not concerned about the guy next to me shooting the planet wrecker loads in his Magnum maybe blowing shrapnel every direction and into me as well.
    Over the years, I have seen magnum guns shot into loose pieces of junk through the use of max loads that while are meant for hunting and occasional use, they are shot as everyday practice loads and they soon take their toll .
    Starting loads, midrange loads are closer to factory loads in power. Chronographing of factory loads can prove to you that factory loads are under powered from what they say in the catalogue.
    Manufacturers are just careful to keep from getting sued for putting out loads that quickly wear out the firearms.
    That's why reloads void the warranty.
    Take note of that and use starting loads and no higher than midrange loads.You will have a more favorable experience.
    And the dead game can't tell the difference.

  13. #53
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Las Cruces, NM
    Posts
    4,558
    According to SAAMI:

    SQUIB LOAD
    A cartridge or shell which produces projectile velocity and sound substantially lower than normal. May result in projectile and/or wads remaining in the bore.

    ==================
    Oxford Dictionary

    squib
    /skwib/

    noun
    1.
    a small firework that burns with a hissing sound before exploding.
    2.
    a short piece of satirical writing.

  14. #54
    Boolit Master scattershot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    1,536
    Go to Lowe’s and buy a dowel. .99 cents or so, and cut it to the length you need.
    "Experience is a series of non-fatal mistakes"


    Disarming is a mistake free people only get to make once...

  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy LaPoint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    In a house by the creek
    Posts
    188
    I made one from an old brass cleaning rod. I only had the one section of the cleaning rod so I chucked in the lathe and cut the threads off of it and then epoxied it to a large wooden ball. Unfortunately I've had to use it a few times. It works great.

  16. #56
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Center Point, Texas
    Posts
    605
    No squibs but I'f slugged a 100 rifle and pistol bores with lead bullets. I just use a brass rod cut to fit from 3' lengths that are available in a rack at most any hardware and some hobby shops. Cheaper than the shipping cost for anything purchased online. WAY cheaper than something "made" for the purpose.

  17. #57
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Baytown Texas
    Posts
    4,106
    Earlier in the thread there was a suggestion that the welding shop was your friend. Be aware that brazing rod, which looks a lot like brass, is phosphor bronze and is much, much harder than brass. I would use the same protective precautions as for a steel rod.

    Brass and aluminum are my preferences. I know some have been successful with wooden dowels but I would not attempt to use one. It’s not worth the risk.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  18. #58
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    barry s wales uk
    Posts
    2,655
    i have removed stuck boolits from 17 up to 45-70 all have been removed with the appropriate cleaning rod.more 17 than anything else .i admit i have had a few personally but most at the range as an RCO.

  19. #59
    Boolit Master
    Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    1,277
    The squib rod in my range bag is just solid brass rod cut from a length of grounding rod from a hardware store. I have not personally had to use it but many a fellow competitor has, works great 👍
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

    Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
    Accuracy, Power & Speed

  20. #60
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,675
    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    …brazing rod, which looks a lot like brass, is phosphor bronze and is much, much harder than brass. I would use the same protective precautions as for a steel rod…
    I thought the best bore brushes are made of phosphor bronze, or are there different alloys of different hardness all going by the same name?

    For my club I recently got a quarter inch brass rod from Ace Hardware, long enough for PCC barrels. The last club squib rod got kinda beat up from a shooter who decided to knock out the slug the long way, from breech to muzzle, even though the bullet was just forward of the chamber.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check