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Thread: cutting down a stock

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy Bren R.'s Avatar
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    May I suggest again using a cross-cut sled on a table saw and shimming the butt of the stock square with the blade.

    Setup should take about 10 minutes, 15 if you have to change to an 80-tooth blade on the saw first.

    All you are asking how to do is to make a parallel cross-grain cut in wood. No compound mitres, no strange profile... a straight cross-grain cut.

    Here is a link on one way to make a small sled.

    In the case of something oddly shaped like a stock... some Plasticene or other non-air-curing putty on the sled and built up under the stock works better than a whole boatload of shims, it's like a soft cradle for the stock. Cover it in saran wrap to avoid getting grease on the stock. Masking tape (good stuff, like 3M) over the cut area, and don't push the cut. Give yourself 1/8" by cutting it long and finish to the line on a stationary belt sander. I do one more stage after that, and push-sand on a mirror (or glass, or marble) with 400 grit wet/dry stuck to it to make it perfect.

    Here are the last two stocks I cut down:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mauser 96 on the left with a spacer of Osage Orange/Maple/Osage Orange, Winchester 101 on the right with a spacer of Honduran Mahogany. Even at that magnification, there are NO gaps between any of the joints.

    It's Woodworking 101. You just have to stop thinking like a machinist.

    Bren R.

  2. #22
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    Bren: thanks for the link to the Sled. I do have a table saw,, albeit an old Craftsman one and I have been meaning to make a sled and a taper jig for that machine for a while. I also need to make one of those jigs for making finger joints on boxes so I can make my gun chests for my Military rifles to live in.

    I also like the idea of the Clay or putty for a nest for the stock that would take the vibration out of it for sure. The one thing I see as ruining this project is not being able to control the vibration of the stock while it is being cut. The same thing happens in machine shop land. If chatter starts you must deal with it immediately or else you'll have a mess to fix.

    As far as not thinking like a machinist, most of the cabinet makers I have seen would make pretty decent machinists.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Bren R.'s Avatar
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    Thin kerf blade, as many teeth as you can get, steady hand through the cut, don't panic and stop - one cut... hell, you're leaving a 1/4", so if you do scorch the cut, you're sanding it off, anyway.

    Thanks for taking the ribbing about machinists the right way. I come from a long line of Deutscher Kunsttischler (Cabinet makers) on dad's side. I'd be blessed to be half the woodworker my grandfather was.

    Bren R.

  4. #24
    Boolit Mold
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    The "cross cut" blade that you would use on a chop saw to cut 2 X 4s, etc. should not be used, . The cut won't make you pleased! You require an 80-tooth carbide blade of decent quality. A blade like this would be suitable for your intended use:
    You can try
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3BF8QL1?ref=myi_title_dp

  5. #25
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    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by petrajimm View Post
    The "cross cut" blade that you would use on a chop saw to cut 2 X 4s, etc. should not be used, . The cut won't make you pleased! You require an 80-tooth carbide blade of decent quality. A blade like this would be suitable for your intended use:
    You can try
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3BF8QL1?ref=myi_title_dp
    The link is for a ROCKPORT Combo 4 1/2 Diamond Blade for Angle Grinder Set - (3 Pack) Diamond Saw Blade & Grinder Blade for Dry/Wet Tile, Diamond Cutting Wheel for Stone, Granite, Concrete, 5/8" - 7/8" Arbor Tile Blade.

    Also this thread is from 2013
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
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  6. #26
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Great advice above, but I like the youth stock idea if available.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    …Also this thread is from 2013
    Did they have band saws back then?

  8. #28
    Boolit Master


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    Band saw would not be my choice for a recoil pad. I Have cut many on my table saw. Rubber door stop to set up stock so it cannot move down at the wrist. Butt square to the rip fence, small tooth kef blade. set angle on the pusher so it has a solid purchase on the stock. Stock taped set blade to width of what you want cut off. Fire it up cut the stock. It takes 1/10th the time to do than to explain.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Lots of ways to skin a cat: I shorten stocks often because I have a limited wingspan, myself. YMMV, but I use a chop saw fitted with a furniture grade 100 tooth blade that is only used for cutting stocks. As noted above, spec-ing out the angle of the butt cut is critical; both the relation of the toe & heel and the 90 degree relation to the axis of the bore. Set up time is never wasted. Design your cut ahead of time and brace the workpiece firmly. Grindable recoil pads are the ones to use. Since the stock will be shortened, the length & width of the pad will be smaller than the one it started with. Remember to include the thickness of the recoil pad in your design calculations for the cut. Good luck. GET THE BEST BLADE YOU CAN AFFORD! I'm partial to the 100 tooth.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bmi48219 View Post
    Did they have band saws back then?
    Yes they did but they were treadle powered..........

    I do use a bandsaw and finish on a 16" disk sander. Is it the 'best" method??? For me it is since I don't have a table or chop saw.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    If you are worried about chiping out the edge of your stock in cutting it? After marking the length you want to cut to, carefully scribe the line with an exao knife with a new sharp blade< with this scribed line, no chips on finished surface>

  12. #32
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    An old trim carpenter taught me that when cutting off a solid core door to us a sharp box knife to cut into the cut line and place heavy tape on the finished side of the cut to keep the wood splintering from the fine sharp saw blade. I did this to oak doors when fitting them to their frame so that they would clear the carpet etc. I never had trouble with wood splintering.
    Mtgrs737
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  13. #33
    Boolit Mold
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    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3BC31HJ?ref=myi_title_dp
    Small teeth kef blade, butt square to the rip fence. Set the pusher's angle so that it has a good grip on the stock. Stock taped, blade set to desired cutting width. Cut the stock and start it up. Doing it takes a fraction of the time of explaining it.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wv109323 View Post

    Wrap the area that you are cutting with masking tape.

    This will prevent splintering of the wood along the cut line.
    FWIW, this is the best advice you're going to get - you definitely won't regret following it.

    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

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