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Thread: A.C.E. 12 Ga 740 Gr HB slug

  1. #181
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    It appears the epoxy has failed two guys said they cam loose, I will pay for return shipping so I can pin handles on. Speaking to a few different guys if you send them back I can also change the size of the handle if it is too big.

    Also, I will supply a spring washer for the sprue plate.

  2. #182
    Boolit Buddy TX.shotgun01's Avatar
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    Got mine in today can't wait to cast with it
    Thanks again for making them for us sluggers

    Tx.shotgun01

  3. #183
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    My second round of casting went much better. I learned a few things casting the first round. All slugs came out perfect on the second round (slug filled out around pin perfectly).

    Here is a picture of a couple slugs with the round pin and the turbo bell pin:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Some comments/suggestions:
    The mold produces very nice/clean slugs
    The slug casts out right at .734 with WW (don't know exact percentages of my aloy)
    The slug with round pin weighs in at about 735gr with the alloy I am using
    The slug with turbo bell pin weighs in at about 740gr with the alloy I am using

    The round pin drops the slugs much easier than the turbo bell pin but if the pin is hot enough, the turbo bell will drop off. Here is my learning and trick: I could not get the pin hot enough from casting speed and high melt temp alone. Between each cast, I placed the tip of the pin into the melt for 10 seconds, then placed in back in the mold and dropped more lead into the mold. The mold kept plenty hot and the slug dropped off the pin with ease. I didn't need to do this with the round pin. Any maybe you better casters don't need to do what I did with the turbo bell but that is what worked for me.

    The alignment pins in the mold worked their way in after a while and, at that point, the mold wouldn't align perfectly. I know they are pressed in and further have a set screw on them, but it is happening on mine after about 50 slugs. I have two molds and it happened to both. The first mold I just cleaned, pre-heated, and started casting. The second mold I thermal cycled - hot, cool down, hot, cool down, hot, cool down, cast... The pins still pushed in on my second mold, although they took longer than the first mold. Maybe it needed more thermal cycling. Maybe the pins need to be fit tighter. Here is a pic:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The turbo bell/round/flat pins are very nicely made and come with a round ball of ~1.9" in diameter. They are easy to handle. The mold, with pin/ball installed, fits under my Lee bottom pour pot with about 3/8" to spare from the pour spout to the spru plate. That actually makes it nice in that I can just rest the mold/ball on the base of the Lee pot under the pour spout. I am not sure what other bottom pour pots are like and how much room there is. It worked for me. One suggested improvement that I have for the pin/ball assembly - pin them together somehow. One of my two turbo bell pins came out of the ball fairly easily when hot. While the round pins drop the slugs with ease, the turbo bell pin seems reluctant to drop them at times and I had to give some downward shakes to encourage them to depart. One time, the pin went right along with the slug. I'd also like the option of being able to rotate the pin while still in the mold. This won't work as it is now - the handle just rotates around the pin. So pinning the shank to the handle would improve things for me.

    I see the comment on including a spring washer for the spru plate - I was thinking the same thing.

    That said, I really like the mold. There isn't anything else like it. I need to sort out the mold's alignment pin creep and figure out how to pin the base pin shank to the handle, and all will be perfect.
    Last edited by AZBrian; 02-08-2014 at 12:26 PM.

  4. #184
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    Brian,

    Do me a favor and tighten down the set screws on the alignment pins, If this does not resolve the issue I will pay to ship em back fix it also, I can pin those balls. It was a total oversight on my end to use an epoxy and not a mechanical catch.

  5. #185
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    I have not cast with mine yet, will make sure to check the set screws after I get the mold up to temp.
    Experience is something you get just after you need it. LOL
    Last edited by RED333; 02-08-2014 at 02:51 PM.
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  6. #186
    Boolit Master AlaskanGuy's Avatar
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    Mine dropped at around 748 gr, and measured around .732....

  7. #187
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    Check the set screws before 1st heat, let the mold get hot and sure enough they were loose.
    Letting the mold cool now, gone get a few cast tonight, come hell or high water.
    O wait, I am on my side of the creek, all is good.
    Je suis Charlie
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  8. #188
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    Thems sure are one ornry looking chunk of lead....poor ol bambi does not stand a chance. LOTSA-WAP

  9. #189
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    Would anyone like to explain why they are getting loose as they get hot?

    A circle will contract when hot and a solid pin expands.

    Red if you need it fixed I will take care of it.

  10. #190
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    No need to worry, after the 2nd heat cycle they stayed tight.
    A circle will get bigger when it gets hot, not smaller, but no worries.
    Cast a few, well about 20 and all came out at .732 to .733 in dia.
    720 to 725 grains in weight, I am using straight WW.
    Great mold, I love it.
    Now to load a few and see how my Mossy slug gun and Saiga like them.
    Did find that if you twist the pin as the lead cools it will drop a lot better.
    Good tip on dunking the pin for 10 seconds ever so often.
    Je suis Charlie
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    Rednecks run the Brits out of this country years ago,
    I will defend this country from anyone or thing that tries to take it from me or mine
    I AM A REDNECK!!!
    "If ever a time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government,our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin." Samuel Adams, 1776

  11. #191
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    I don't think you are right on the circle contracting thing. The Aluminum mould block will expand in all directions as it heats so I believe the material around those holes expands making the hole bigger and aluminum expands more than steel.

    You need a good press fit to keep those pins tight. My take anyway.

    Longbow

  12. #192
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    I would like to thank 338 for making a great slug mold.
    The man took on a job that I would not have done, for a first mold,
    YA DONE GOOD, REAL GOOD!!!
    Je suis Charlie
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    Rednecks run the Brits out of this country years ago,
    I will defend this country from anyone or thing that tries to take it from me or mine
    I AM A REDNECK!!!
    "If ever a time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government,our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin." Samuel Adams, 1776

  13. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    I don't think you are right on the circle contracting thing. The Aluminum mould block will expand in all directions as it heats so I believe the material around those holes expands making the hole bigger and aluminum expands more than steel.

    You need a good press fit to keep those pins tight. My take anyway.

    Longbow
    I know when I cut steel molds I need my cavity slightly larger than expected diameter so it will drop correct when it gets hot, I did press these in but it may need more press, I did not want to damage the blocks by pressing too much.

    Anyway, I will fix them no matter what.

  14. #194
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    I would figure you need a good half thou or better press fit but would have to work out the relative expansions at casting temperature.

    Something that might make an easy fix is to tin the steel pins with silver solder then skim them to whatever increase in diameter is needed, then press them in. Not sure how difficult the pins are to make with CNC equipment so maybe not a problem to make new pins but if it is the silver solder might save a bit of effort and make a good fix.

    Regardless, the slugs look good and I am looking forward to some smoothbore range tests. I might yet spring for one of these babies if they shoot well from smoothbore. I think the guys shooting rifled bores will be very happy with it.

    So, someone get out there and start shooting! Post pics!

    Longbow

  15. #195
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    I went out to the range today to peek around for brass, but it was very cold out there... Car thermo said 10... Call me a sissy, but i just cant get into shooting when its cold like that. 30 is ok... 25, i bundle up but dont shoot for long... Less then that, i just dont enjoy it at all.

  16. #196
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    Got mine in the mail. Great looking mold. It has been properly cleaned (not that it was dirty) and sent to the oven for heat cycling. Will be a couple days before get to cast with it.
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  17. #197
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    ""Would anyone like to explain why they are getting loose as they get hot?

    A circle will contract when hot and a solid pin expands.

    Red if you need it fixed I will take care of it. ""
    , 338

    ""I don't think you are right on the circle contracting thing. The Aluminum mould block will expand in all directions as it heats so I believe the material around those holes expands making the hole bigger and aluminum expands more than steel.

    You need a good press fit to keep those pins tight. My take anyway.
    ""

    Longbow


    I would add that AL takes up heat in a different way almost like it sucks it up. Circle will get larger by .003-.005 any way.

    I looking at it from what I would look into or think about trying first. Freeze pins, in block make hole .005 under size with a little relief at edge to start the pin press fit. Maybe warm block 400 degs. and go to .010 undersize on hole and freeze pin, has to be a magic temps and size to get a good press fit.

    Teddy
    Last edited by Teddy (punchie); 02-09-2014 at 01:19 PM.

  18. #198
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    Teddie, that makes sense as I used a .003 compression with the pins and when it gets hot it would allow a slip fit.

    I am going to work on the ones headed back and see what we can do here.

  19. #199
    Boolit Buddy AZBrian's Avatar
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    Anyone load these yet? I should probably post this in the 'casting for shotguns' category... I am interested in what some of you experienced slug loaders come up with for loads. I have the least amount of experience loading for shotgun - much more in pistol/rifle. I have a lot of Herco powder and 2-3/4" hulls so am starting with this. I am sure there is a better powder, and I should probably be using a 3" hull, but I have started with the above and loaded 15 with varying loads and will try them this weekend.

  20. #200
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    Got my mold last week. Ice & snow have kept me from power and the net. Just back on. Tooooooooooooooooo cold to cast, now. but soon! Interested in load data & results.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check