Cast Iron dutch ovens for smelting ?

[Wayne S]

My porcelain pot idea didn't go so now I'm looking at getting a cast iron "dutch oven" , but now I'm wondering if cast iron will handle the 600 * of smelting alloy ?
Asked before I checked ; 2000*+
Damn, making my "silver bullets" for the next full moon
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/me...als-d_860.html

[codgerville@zianet.com]

Absolutely. You are on the right track.

[bhn22]

I use cast iron too, but I've seen some issues where the cast iron cracks if it gets too hot. It has never happened to me, but some guys here only use steel pots, and one guy sells them off and on in S&S.

[rondog]

FWIW - I found a nasty, rusty old cast iron pot at a Goodwill store for, like, 50 cents or so. I don't think it's a dutch oven, has no lid. Just a small pot with a wire bail handle. Absolutely perfect for smelting down lead and w/w's into ingots. Goodwill's and other thrift stores are great places to find stuff like this, most people don't want them.

Or, you can get a new cheapo cast iron dutch oven at Harbor Freight for $20-$25.

[DukeInFlorida]

Or, you can cut the top off of a 20 pound propane tank that's been thrown away, and use the bottom for a smelting pot. It's made from steel, and holds a lot more lead than the smaller dutch oven does.
There's a write up on the forum somewhere about how to do it. I have two of them that I use for that purpose.

[Wayne S]

The one I had was a 20 Qt. one, guess I was used to my old steel one, ie, fill with alloy, turn the "fish cooker" on and find other things to do in the same area. I did the same with my cast iron one, and good thing I was near by when "POP, "CRACK" , I checked and it had cracked from the center all the way up to the rim. Tomorrow I'm getting a steel one made, 15.5 "ID x about 10" tall.

[mold maker]

I'm sure others have had problems with cracks in cast iron pots, but the two I use are no-name el-cheapo pots I found at GoodWill.
I have never applied the burner heat to a cold empty pot, or banged on it. I suspect that hot spots causing quick uneven expansion and/or striking the sides of the pot with a ladel is at least partly responsible for cracks.
A new cast iron pot should be heated slowly the first time it's used, to allow stresses to releave themselves. A wind screen to help heat the sides of the pot will also help avoid thermal stress, while saving fuel.

[jmort]

"Or, you can cut the top off of a 20 pound propane tank that's been thrown away, and use the bottom for a smelting pot"

That is what I did. Cost me $5.00. Better, round bottom, and stronger, and will never crack like cast iron can.

[bangerjim]

EVERYBODY uses CI. It will easily take the 600-700°F heat, just let it heat up gradually at first then crank the heat up.

And whatever you do.............DO NOT try cooling it down with water when you are finished!!!!!! OMG.......CI does not like thermal shocks and will crack severely!

banger

[AlaskanGuy]

I use a dutch oven as well.... Make all my ingots with it... I need to tell you though, having the lid has saved my bacon many many times..... The tinsel fairy has tried to land on me several times unexpectedly and if i had not had the lid at least partly on, i would have been burned. Get a lid, especially if you are going to do range lead... That stuff is always popping and stuff...

Alaskan

[novalty]

The 12" cast iron dutch oven from Harbor Freight comes with a lid and runs about $30 delivered, when you apply a 20% coupon code to your order. It fits well on a fryer like the single burner one from Camp Chef. Like others have said heat it up slowly, and be sure to leave so lead in the bottom when you finish up, that way the next batch of lead will melt down faster.

[country gent]

My only complaint with my dutch ovenis the flat bottom makes it harder to get all the lead out, heres always some in the bottom theladles wont get a domed bottom allows for moreof the lead to be ladled out. When I find a old unuseable propane cylinder I will cut it off for a shallow casting pot with straight sides about 2"-3" tall or so. Tanks can be cut easily with a hack saw or saws all. Wrap a piece of belting around the tank with edge where you want it scribe a line around and start cutting following the line. The belting laying flat will give a square line to follow. I had one cut about 2" down to smelt with Loaned the set up out and never got it back. I think the small hieght large dia will make casting fluxing much easier than deep and smaller dia. I havent smelted in many years ut cast from the dutch oven as I perfer a large batch of lead and the consistency it provides.

[shadowcaster]

If you are concerned about cast iron and the possibilities of cast iron cracking or failing you can always weld up a piece of pipe, or a rim, and some steel plate for a bottom. It will last a lifetime and you can always add a bottom pour spout to it later.

Shad

[carbine]

D.Crokett on this site sell cut down prepare "pots"

[dikman]

A word of warning about cutting propane tanks. The first thing to do is to remove the valve assembly (a ***** of a job, those things aren't meant to come out!) then fill the tank with water and let stand at least overnight. Empty the water and cut while it's still damp inside, the reason being that the metal seems to "absorb" traces of propane and it can be rather explosive inside if hot sparks get in there. I found that an angle grinder with a cutting wheel works well.

Another possibility is a small air compressor tank. Not as thick as the propane tank, but should still work, just cut the bottom section off like with a propane tank.

After reading this thread I've decide to make a pot from a propane tank as the extra thickness should be safer in my forge (a mate has got a couple of old ones he said I can have).

[Jon]

I used a dutch oven for a few years, but it cracked this summer. I'm moving to a propane tank pot.

They don't like being handled with any weight in them. I thought I was being careful, but apparently not careful enough.

[dragonrider]

EVERYBODY uses CI. It will easily take the 600-700°F heat, just let it heat up gradually at first then crank the heat up.

And whatever you do.............DO NOT try cooliong it odown with water when you are finished!!!!!! OMG.......CI does not like thermal shocks and will crack severely!

banger

No so, everyone may use ci until it cracks, then they won't use it again. Stainless is a much better aternative.

[Jon]

The 12" cast iron dutch oven from Harbor Freight comes with a lid and runs about $30 delivered, when you apply a 20% coupon code to your order. It fits well on a fryer like the single burner one from Camp Chef. Like others have said heat it up slowly, and be sure to leave so lead in the bottom when you finish up, that way the next batch of lead will melt down faster.

I used one of those for a few years. It only broke because I moved it around while full. If you can't get a propane tank pot, it's a good start.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

The original cast iron pots made by Lyman and RCBS were used for decades. Their only problem was that they usually held only 10 pounds. It has become a popular venture to use cast iron dutch ovens for smelting and casting as well. They come in various sizes.The major makers of dutch ovens in our history have been Griswold, Wagner, Lodge (still in production) and several other foundries over the years. If you come across a Griz or a Wagner, it is usually signed on the bottom and you might want to think twice (especially if it has the lid with it), before using it for lead operations. The worth of it as a collectible may be a lot more than you think. Books and info are worth looking/checking into. Stuff marked "made in USA", "made in Taiwan" or unmarked has no collector value whatsoever. You can find them around in dollar stores etc. If you ever want to know if a piece of CI has a crack in it, the test is simple. Hang it by a piece of string or grip it in a piece of cloth and tap/whack it gently with something metallic and if it rings you are ok; if it just gives off a dull or flat sound...it has a crack already in it. Pass it up. Cast iron does not like to be heated up quickly or cooled down quickly. Ask any welder. It also does not like to be tapped, hit, or whacked when it is hot or cold as it may crack or shatter. You don't want that whether it is full of lead or not. Signed dutch ovens such as Griswold have insignias or logos cast into the outside bottom and those would have to be considered as weak points where trouble can and does start...even the tapping on the side with a ladle can start a crack. Yes many folks have successfully used dutch ovens for lead operations without incident, but others have had bad experiences with cracking or shattering and dangerous resulting messes. If you have the option of using an alternative vessel made out of stainless steel or steel it might be better to consider it as safer to use. Other cast iron items are often used for casting ingots and they work very well, but the same rules apply; no rough handling or hitting especially when cold or hot and if kept wiped with an oily rag, they will last a long time. LLS

[CastingFool]

Or, you can cut the top off of a 20 pound propane tank that's been thrown away, and use the bottom for a smelting pot. It's made from steel, and holds a lot more lead than the smaller dutch oven does.
There's a write up on the forum somewhere about how to do it. I have two of them that I use for that purpose.

I picked up an empty helium tank, off one of those balloon party kits, and cut it in half. I use that to render my wheel weights, and scrap lead pipe joints. Cost was $0.