Auber Instruments SYL-2352 PID Controller
Auber Instruments:
Auber 1/16 DIN PID Controller (SSR control output) SYL-2352 (1.89" x 1.89" x 4") $45.00
10" K type high temperature thermocouple for heat treatment $22.62
K Type Thermocouple Mini Connector, Plug $3.30
120V 15A US Socket, Panel Mount, NEMA 5-15R $1.95
Panel mount connector for K thermocouple $5.89
K type thermocouple extension wire, multistranded (12") $1.25
Thermal Grease, Silicone Compound $2.17
Shipping $7.02
Total = $89.70
eBay:
Solid State Relay SSR-40DA 40A 3-32VDC Output 24-380V $10.99 Free Shipping
Black Aluminum Project Box Enclosure 8" x 5.7" x 2.7" $18.49 + $4.99 Shipping = $23.48
Heatsink USA:
Heatsink 3.5" x 2.75" $13.87 (including shipping)
Radio Shack:
RadioShack 6-Position Dual-Row Barrier Strips Model: 274-659 $2.99
Toggle Switch with Center Off 10A Model: 275-1533 $4.49
Lowes:
1/2" BX-MC-Flex Connector Item #: 108659 Model #: 49212 $3.04
Grand Total So Far = $148.06
Here’s the wiring diagram of what I have done so far. At this point I DO NOT have any fuses installed though I plan to. I originally found this wiring diagram in this post by Fredx10sen. I modified the drawing a bit, made it accurate for the Auber SYL-2352, added the toggle switch, changed some pics and more clearly labeled the wires (live, neutral, ground).
I used 12 AWG wire for most everything. I used much smaller wire to supply power to the PID (110V) and from the PID to the SSR (which is 12V out).
I used AutoSketch to draw a template to plot the holes for drilling into the heatsink and the top of the project box. I also used AutoSketch to draw a template for the front & real panels to drill & cut holes. If I can figure out a way to post the template so that it can be printed I will.
Heatsink attached to the exterior of the project box:
Solid State Relay attached to the underside of the heatsink (using thermal grease) inside the project box:
How The Toggle Switch Works:
- With the switch flipped UP the PID is in control of the pot.
- With the switch in the CENTER position ALL power is off.
- With the switch flipped DOWN you get power to the PID and the pot. Basically the solid state relay is bypassed providing power to the pot and the PID just functions as a digital thermometer.
Once it was all assembled I tested the accuracy in a large glass of crushed ice & water and with a pot of water at a rolling boil. Both temps read accurate so no calibration was required.
The extruded aluminum project box is real nice looking and heavy duty. Plenty of room inside for all the components with room to spare for potential upgrades, modifications or additions. I plan to get 4 rubber feet to attach to the underside of the box so it doesn't slide on smooth surfaces and so debris won't scuff the underside of the box.
I have not determined how I will clamp my thermocouple to the pot yet. I'm rolling around some ideas and I've seen a few examples in this forum.