Question About my First Powder Charge in my New Shiloh Sharps

[bigted]

I must say that I have not read the measurements of your rifle. have you slugged it and measured the cases yet? these measurements will tell volumes for the needed information that everybody is trying to help with. no need to do a chamber cast ...[altho this IS the best method to a very accurate measurement]... with the simple method of just pounding a pure lead slug down the greased barrel from the muzzle ... and then just measure the grooves and bore diameter ... then simply ,,, slightly bell the unsized case mouth so an accurate measurement of the mouth/neck area will be a simple measurement of the chamber needs of the throat/chamber end of your rifle.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

The diameter of the bore measurements taken by my slugging the bore before I shot it and were were posted in the OP. My most recent question was related to the recommendations from others as to the diameter of the new mould I'd order from Buffalo Arms. I think the bore diameter is the measurement that is critical when selecting a new mould rather than the case mouth. Buffalo Arms offers moulds of the same boolit design in different diameters at .001's of an inch, i.e. 460", .459", .458".

Thanks for all the help guys, bigted, Montana Charlie, ColColt. Getting that oversized nose dimensions in my 457125 as the fly in the ointment figured out 12 posts ago was great. Saved me a lot of time effort.

Were moving on..

[ColColt]

Jack-I'm not sure what bullets you're looking at but BACO doesn't offer different diameters for the same mould. They have different bullet designs in different weights with different diameters but not the same design and weight. Or, they'll show the same bullet designed differently, same weight and diameter.

For instance, there's one 510 gr Creedmoor bullet that's .459", single cavity and another similar one same weight but different design same diameter. One has a tapered front band and one doesn't-your choice. That bullet is not offered in any other diameter. They do offer a similar design with a different diameter but a different weight if that's what you mean.

You should be well served with a .459" whatever style you choose. If I were you I think I'd try the NEI moulds as well. Specifically the Paul Jones Creedmoore 458-540 #349F. If I didn't have four other 45 moulds that would be the one I'd pick.

http://www.neihandtools.com/catalog/index.html

[montana_charlie]

You should be well served with a .459" whatever style you choose. If I were you I think I'd try the NEI moulds as well. Specifically the Paul Jones Creedmoore 458-540 #349F.

That reminds me ... I have an NEi #349F mould that I don't use anymore. It casts a .460" bullet in 20:1 alloy. But, for some reason, the bullet it throws is closer to 560 grains than 540.
It was new when I got it and I have cast two ... maybe three ... hundred bullets with it.
It has not been modified in any way.

PM me if you are interested.

CM

[Don McDowell]

The diameter of the bore measurements taken by my slugging the bore before I shot it and were were posted in the OP. My most recent question was related to the recommendations from others as to the diameter of the new mould I'd order from Buffalo Arms. I think the bore diameter is the measurement that is critical when selecting a new mould rather than the case mouth. Buffalo Arms offers moulds of the same boolit design in different diameters at .001's of an inch, i.e. 460", .459", .458".

Thanks for all the help guys, bigted, Montana Charlie, ColColt. Getting that oversized nose dimensions in my 457125 as the fly in the ointment figured out 12 posts ago was great. Saved me a lot of time effort.

Were moving on..

What are you planning to do with your bullet? BACO's 520 gr money bullet shoots well thru both my Shiloh and the Winchester, but it's amazing how much less felt recoil you'll get when shooting the 480 gr bullets, they offer a 480 gr bullet that looks very much like the saeco 645. I have many times comtemplated their 510 gr creedmoor bullet, as that weight is about ideal in the 45-70, and I like the looks of the bullet.
My Shiloh likes the 458 diameter bullets,and gets along ok with 459.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Don, I hope to have a 1,000 yard boolit for competition. Right now I've got a 405 gr boolit that is performing as well as any boolit I could hope to have at my range which is 200 yards, they open the range up to 500 yards once a month. I bought the Sharps for those opportunities which come up every now and then to shoot 1,000 yards. So I'm looking for an appropriate boolit.

My Sharps has the heavy barrel and I swear I experience zero recoil with the 405 gr boolit and 68 gr of FFg at 1375 fps.

[Don McDowell]

There's a lot of nonsense on the Inet about recoil and the 45-70...Always get a chuckle out of folks going on about heavy recoil, when there's women and kids just about every weekend hurling 100 or more rounds down range in various matches around the country.
If you look even casually at what the old dead guys shot back in the day, it is very seldom they ever used a bullet over 500 grs unless the powder charge started exceeding 105 grs. Fast forward to today, and many 45-70 shooters have discovered that bullets over 510 or 20 grs may just be counter productive when the ranges start to get long, unless they are shooting heavy charges of 3f or similar powder and throwing the velocity up into 45-90/100 territory,or having their rifle rebarreled with 16 twist barrels.
The trouble with working up a load for 1000 yd shooting without being able to test it at 1000 is that it's not uncommon for a load to shoot well out to 6 or 800 yds, but go clear to pot by the time it hits 900 let alone 1000.Never mind the attention to detail it takes from the shooter concerning grip, stock placement, rest height, breathing control, and staying hydrated to keep the eyes working properly to make a 1000 yd shot with these rifles. Even a sloppy sight might not start showing you any affects until you hit the 500 yd line.
I'ld recommend that in place of playing the mould of the week game, you invest some money in already cast bullets from known moulds and do as much testing as possible to find the bullet you and your rifle think you can live with, then buy a set of blocks and the same certified alloy as that bullet.