How I turned a perfectly good revolver into a giant paper weight

[preparehandbook]

I have unplugged a similar plug. Actually, I've done it a couple of times.

The method I would recommend for this situation (relatively large bore, long obstruction) is to make a simple cutter out of soft metal (brass) and hand rotate it to slowly remove the bulk of the obstruction.

Take a piece of brass round stock a little under bored diameter (maybe .350) and file one end until it looks like a flat tip screwdriver tip, keeping the cutting part short (maybe 1/8") You could get fancy with undercuts or even make a "plus" shape for 4 cutting edges, but it'll all work about the same.

Lube up the sides, stick it in the bore, twist it a half dozen times, pull it out, tip the muzzle down and spray out the chunks of lead with wd40. It will take a long time to get through, but it will work.

I once had to do a .22 that had 16 projectiles stacked up (flobert BBcaps) and I just sat in front of the TV and whittled away at it, it took a couple of three hours IIRC.

Alternatively you could make a couple of collars for a commercial reamer, but IMHO this is riskier as if it goes cockeyed you could easily damage your barrel.

I think you have a very good chance your barrel is undamaged due to the very low pressure, just clean it out and look for "rings"

If you need help coming up with a brass hand reamer I can lathe one up for you easily enough.

[ctious]

Remove the barrel. Then u can remove the bullets. And the live rounds from the cylinder. Screw it back in. Send off the Taurus and say your barrel is not aligned right. They will take care of it.

[ctious]

If u don't like of trust it anymore I would be willing to buy it from u.

[preparehandbook]

Yellow Brass (Copper Alloy #865)-
Yellow Brass, also considered a "Bronze", is 60% Copper, 33% Zinc, 2% Iron, 1.5% Aluminum, 1-5% Manganese, 1% Tin, .5% Nickel. Brinell Hardness of 100.

Copper-
Brinell hardness of around 40-50

I have done this before with jacketed bullets and the brass will happily chew through the copper jackets.

[MBTcustom]

Yellow Brass (Copper Alloy #865)-
Yellow Brass, also considered a "Bronze", is 60% Copper, 33% Zinc, 2% Iron, 1.5% Aluminum, 1-5% Manganese, 1% Tin, .5% Nickel. Brinell Hardness of 100.

Copper-
Brinell hardness of around 40-50

I have done this before with jacketed bullets and the brass will happily chew through the copper jackets.

This is a true statement, and his advice is the right way to approach the problem. I would take him up on it if I were you!

[preparehandbook]

tell me barrel length and I'll mail you a custom hand reamer for $0.00 + $0.00 shipping (it'll take about a week, a lot of guns on the bench right now)

[taco650]

tell me barrel length and I'll mail you a custom hand reamer for $0.00 + $0.00 shipping (it'll take about a week, a lot of guns on the bench right now)

In post #1 the OP says it's a 4" barrel.

[ASM826]

I read this thread with interest, and hope that the OP gives us a closing update on the removal of the obstructions and any subsequent repair.

[Animal]

ASM829, I got all the lead out but the jackets are pretty well stuck in place. I've been able to remove portions, but no great luck. I've already made up my mind that I'm going to replace the barrel, so I'm not too concerned about the consequences of scratching up the bore. Unfortunatly there is still a jacket that I've had no luck removing that is in the middle of the b/c gap. I've been working it a little at a time. When I get it out to where I can open the cylinder, I'll update the post.

[Animal]

Most recent update:

I gave the revolver to a buddy of mine that has enrolled in a gunsmithing school in Colorado. He'll start next year and try to make it a class project. We shall see the outcome!