RotoMetals2Reloading EverythingWidenersLee Precision
MidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingSnyders JerkyRepackbox
Inline Fabrication Load Data
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 42

Thread: Does your PID controller lie to you?

  1. #21
    Boolit Man NineInchNails's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    96
    I just checked out your PID project link you posted. VERY cool el34!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    N Texas
    Posts
    1,190
    Quote Originally Posted by NineInchNails View Post
    I just checked out your PID project link you posted. VERY cool el34!
    Thanks, it's that sparkly blue paint. I pointed the thread to you so maybe you could see the TC socket and why I don't want to directly connect the TC to the controller. I haven't looked yet but I bet Auberins has a real socket connector with screw terminals for continuing the circuit correctly.
    "The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen

  3. #23
    Boolit Man NineInchNails's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by el34 View Post
    Thanks, it's that sparkly blue paint. I pointed the thread to you so maybe you could see the TC socket and why I don't want to directly connect the TC to the controller. I haven't looked yet but I bet Auberins has a real socket connector with screw terminals for continuing the circuit correctly.
    I'm thinking all you need to do is remove this connector and replace it with this Female Panel mount connector .

  4. #24
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    N Texas
    Posts
    1,190
    Quote Originally Posted by NineInchNails View Post
    I'm thinking all you need to do is remove this connector and replace it with this
    I completely agree. I had stuff hooked up before committing to the wood enclosure with glued-in connector. It would be easy for me to connect the TC straight to the controller, which used to work, and prove it. Thanks for the Auberin's link.

    If anyone is still following all this I hope the connector discussion will be useful.
    "The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen

  5. #25
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Casa Grande, AZ
    Posts
    5,526
    My Mypin is off by roughly 40 degrees and I don't let it bother me as I just look at the number and write down what works well. My Auber is within 2 degrees. I guess you get what you pay for. You purchase a cheap PID (Mypin) or a better PID.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    N Texas
    Posts
    1,190
    Nineinch, you were right. Today I connected the TC directly to the controller and melted a pot. The PID and the thermometer were within 6deg of each other. I'll replace the TC mini adapter I used for a panel connector with a real one from Auberins. Thanks for the whack on the head I needed.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	connector1_zpsb9d8d6d4.jpg 
Views:	222 
Size:	59.8 KB 
ID:	81282

    Bill
    "The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    seated with Him in the heavenly places in Christ Jesus (Eph 2:6)
    Posts
    1,192
    i have a Mypin and 4" probe with mini disconnects/panel mount... i had the polarity reversed and it was giving me a 10F error in boiling water, then when i got it switched and the polarity correct it was a 1F error... when the lead is melting, at the 'heat of fusion', it is supposed to be a constant temp of 619F and mine reads 621F, i can live with this small error... i think the PID is rated at +/- 1% error so it probably won't be exact anyway especially with these inexpensive chicom electronics...

    for the type K thermocouple the negative wire will be more magnetic than the positive... snip off a little piece of wire and place a small refrigerator magnet over it and it will stick to it for the negative wire...

  8. #28
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    N Texas
    Posts
    1,190
    When I first got my Mypin and TC (both from ebay) I hooked it up and tried it with water in the Lee pot. The TC mini connector fit under the screw terminals of the PID, no intermediate wiring. Set for 200, it maintained 200 according to a cooking thermometer. No nervousness about accuracy.

    It was after I had built my box, using the disconnect socket for the TC that the error showed up. It would get worse as the box warmed, making me suspicious of a secondary TC junction effect. The post from Nineinch and a couple others helped me come to grips with the non-compliant connector I used. It was an adapter that came with the TC and is 'official' type K yellow, so I assumed ...

    The literature with my Mypin states accuracy is +/- 0.3% of full scale, and =/- 2 digits. My full scale is set to 1200F, so 0.3% =3.6deg. I am quite good with that for melting lead. Yesterday when I directly connected the TC and melted a potfull it settled to within 6deg of a casting thermometer I have. That's right at the spec, and at that point the thermo accuracy becomes significant.

    I'm glad you posted, your experience further enforces the confidence in the Mypin controller.
    "The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen

  9. #29
    Banned

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The Great Land
    Posts
    998
    It can be amazing just what Proper design of a thing can do for it's function.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    N Texas
    Posts
    1,190
    Quote Originally Posted by Frozone View Post
    It can be amazing just what Proper design of a thing can do for it's function.
    Of course. I never doubted the controller's design for a few reasons, one of which is that you wouldn't have stuck with it if it stunk.

    TC mini-to-banana adapters, well, can't use them like I did.
    "The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen

  11. #31
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    18
    Hi guys, I have never casted before. Looking to get started. "What is a PID" Thanks

  12. #32
    Banned

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The Great Land
    Posts
    998
    An over priced and completely addicting to use device to control the temperature of your melt.
    Not only does it let you set your desired temp exactly (no guessing about what the '9' setting is), it maintains it to within one degree of where you want it.

    They are especially nice when used with a LEE pot.

  13. #33
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    North Little Rock, Arkansas
    Posts
    19
    fwiw my auberins PID reads about 75deg "colder" than my Lyman. When my PID is set to 850, the Lyman reads 725 abouts. Seems a little excessive. I get better HP's when PID set to 850 so I think my PID is what's off since when I set the PID to 725.. I get about 50/50 good/bad boolits and almost all are good when it's set to 850. I'd like to adjust the PID to match the Lyman.. Anyone know which setting does this? My tc is connected directly to the PID btw.
    Last edited by magnetik; 10-27-2013 at 12:01 PM.

  14. #34
    Boolit Man NineInchNails's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    96
    oops mistake
    Last edited by NineInchNails; 10-27-2013 at 03:00 PM.

  15. #35
    Boolit Man NineInchNails's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by magnetik View Post
    fwiw my auberins PID reads about 75deg "colder" than my Lyman. When my PID is set to 850, the Lyman reads 725 abouts. Seems a little excessive. I get better HP's when PID set to 850 so I think my PID is what's off since when I set the PID to 725.. I get about 50/50 good/bad boolits and almost all are good when it's set to 850. I'd like to adjust the PID to match the Lyman.. Anyone know which setting does this? My tc is connected directly to the PID btw.
    Are you saying that your PID reads colder than your Lyman dial thermometer?

    Have you checked to see what you PID reads in boiling water and ice? Maybe your PID just needs calibrated. My Auber PID read dead on and needed no calibration.

    SYL-2342, SYL-2352 PID TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER INSTRUCTION MANUAL

  16. #36
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    North Little Rock, Arkansas
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by NineInchNails View Post
    Are you saying that your PID reads colder than your Lyman dial thermometer?

    Have you checked to see what you PID reads in boiling water and ice? Maybe your PID just needs calibrated. My Auber PID read dead on and needed no calibration.

    SYL-2342, SYL-2352 PID TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER INSTRUCTION MANUAL
    thanks. I prob need to do that. I assumed (the pid would be accurate) which always gets me in trouble. heh

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Posts
    347
    The melt may have a spot on temp, but what about the multiple variables that influence the molds temperature?

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,023
    Chasing irrelevant ghosts. If it makes you feel better, have fun. I don't
    even bother to take my thermometer out any more. I can cast just fine with
    ZERO information about the actual temperature, just how the mold is
    casting. This whole PID and instrumentation fetish is kinda humorous to me.
    I sort of understand the technology push, but this is a case where it
    really doesn't make a bit of difference.

    I get plenty of excellent boolits without the money or fiddly stuff.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Posts
    347
    Quote Originally Posted by MtGun44 View Post
    Chasing irrelevant ghosts. If it makes you feel better, have fun. I don't
    even bother to take my thermometer out any more. I can cast just fine with
    ZERO information about the actual temperature, just how the mold is
    casting. This whole PID and instrumentation fetish is kinda humorous to me.
    I sort of understand the technology push, but this is a case where it
    really doesn't make a bit of difference.

    I get plenty of excellent boolits without the money or fiddly stuff.

    Bill
    +1 I don't even own a thermometer.........just keeping it simple.

  20. #40
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Southern Alberta
    Posts
    11
    Thermocouples are definitely sensitive to any metallic dissimilarities throughout the entire length of their leads. I have had many similar encounters with thermocouples at work. Also, the different types of thermocouples all have different measurement ranges. I have seen it where the temp controller in a PLC was not configured for the correct thermocouple, and inaccuracy is the result.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check