I just checked out your PID project link you posted. VERY cool el34!
I just checked out your PID project link you posted. VERY cool el34!
Thanks, it's that sparkly blue paint. I pointed the thread to you so maybe you could see the TC socket and why I don't want to directly connect the TC to the controller. I haven't looked yet but I bet Auberins has a real socket connector with screw terminals for continuing the circuit correctly.
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
I'm thinking all you need to do is remove this connector and replace it with this Female Panel mount connector .
I completely agree. I had stuff hooked up before committing to the wood enclosure with glued-in connector. It would be easy for me to connect the TC straight to the controller, which used to work, and prove it. Thanks for the Auberin's link.
If anyone is still following all this I hope the connector discussion will be useful.
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
My Mypin is off by roughly 40 degrees and I don't let it bother me as I just look at the number and write down what works well. My Auber is within 2 degrees. I guess you get what you pay for. You purchase a cheap PID (Mypin) or a better PID.
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
i have a Mypin and 4" probe with mini disconnects/panel mount... i had the polarity reversed and it was giving me a 10F error in boiling water, then when i got it switched and the polarity correct it was a 1F error... when the lead is melting, at the 'heat of fusion', it is supposed to be a constant temp of 619F and mine reads 621F, i can live with this small error... i think the PID is rated at +/- 1% error so it probably won't be exact anyway especially with these inexpensive chicom electronics...
for the type K thermocouple the negative wire will be more magnetic than the positive... snip off a little piece of wire and place a small refrigerator magnet over it and it will stick to it for the negative wire...
When I first got my Mypin and TC (both from ebay) I hooked it up and tried it with water in the Lee pot. The TC mini connector fit under the screw terminals of the PID, no intermediate wiring. Set for 200, it maintained 200 according to a cooking thermometer. No nervousness about accuracy.
It was after I had built my box, using the disconnect socket for the TC that the error showed up. It would get worse as the box warmed, making me suspicious of a secondary TC junction effect. The post from Nineinch and a couple others helped me come to grips with the non-compliant connector I used. It was an adapter that came with the TC and is 'official' type K yellow, so I assumed ...
The literature with my Mypin states accuracy is +/- 0.3% of full scale, and =/- 2 digits. My full scale is set to 1200F, so 0.3% =3.6deg. I am quite good with that for melting lead. Yesterday when I directly connected the TC and melted a potfull it settled to within 6deg of a casting thermometer I have. That's right at the spec, and at that point the thermo accuracy becomes significant.
I'm glad you posted, your experience further enforces the confidence in the Mypin controller.
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
It can be amazing just what Proper design of a thing can do for it's function.
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
Hi guys, I have never casted before. Looking to get started. "What is a PID" Thanks
An over priced and completely addicting to use device to control the temperature of your melt.
Not only does it let you set your desired temp exactly (no guessing about what the '9' setting is), it maintains it to within one degree of where you want it.
They are especially nice when used with a LEE pot.
fwiw my auberins PID reads about 75deg "colder" than my Lyman. When my PID is set to 850, the Lyman reads 725 abouts. Seems a little excessive. I get better HP's when PID set to 850 so I think my PID is what's off since when I set the PID to 725.. I get about 50/50 good/bad boolits and almost all are good when it's set to 850. I'd like to adjust the PID to match the Lyman.. Anyone know which setting does this? My tc is connected directly to the PID btw.
Last edited by magnetik; 10-27-2013 at 12:01 PM.
oops mistake
Last edited by NineInchNails; 10-27-2013 at 03:00 PM.
Are you saying that your PID reads colder than your Lyman dial thermometer?
Have you checked to see what you PID reads in boiling water and ice? Maybe your PID just needs calibrated. My Auber PID read dead on and needed no calibration.
SYL-2342, SYL-2352 PID TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER INSTRUCTION MANUAL
The melt may have a spot on temp, but what about the multiple variables that influence the molds temperature?
Chasing irrelevant ghosts. If it makes you feel better, have fun. I don't
even bother to take my thermometer out any more. I can cast just fine with
ZERO information about the actual temperature, just how the mold is
casting. This whole PID and instrumentation fetish is kinda humorous to me.
I sort of understand the technology push, but this is a case where it
really doesn't make a bit of difference.
I get plenty of excellent boolits without the money or fiddly stuff.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Thermocouples are definitely sensitive to any metallic dissimilarities throughout the entire length of their leads. I have had many similar encounters with thermocouples at work. Also, the different types of thermocouples all have different measurement ranges. I have seen it where the temp controller in a PLC was not configured for the correct thermocouple, and inaccuracy is the result.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |