Jacket Blanking Die - Attempt to make my own jacket blanking die

[customcutter]

I think it means he is watching his computer for more info.

[Cane_man]

^^^ thats it, he is just watching the thread because he thinks it is interesting, nothing malicious or anything like that...

its like this one

[Randy C]

Yep I never have enough time to keep up with certain post It helps me find them later.
Randy

[midnight]

Glad someone explained that one too. I thing Randy did that on a thread I was posting a lot on and I didn't know what to think. There are guys like me out there who had to google "lol" to find out what it meant but wer'e learning.

Bob

[Tikka308]

Question - I'm using 1" wide, 0.031" thick copper strips (from Corbin - http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/merchan...Category_Code=). I bought it because I knew it was 'reliable' material - per corbin: "Strips are edge finished, annealed, polished, good for deep drawing". (I've had bad experiences using mystery metals before in other projects, so I figured let's start with "Good" material as I learn/experiment with drawing dies).

The Corbin material is a 'universal' size able to make anything from 0.124 to 45 ACP jackets.

Here's my question: if my end goal is a jacket that's ~0.013" thick (wall thickness), why not just start with material that thick? (Thus it would only require "forming" it into shape, versus 'drawing' the material thinner)?

[bullet maker 57]

Depending on the jacket you are making, the width of the strip will have to wider to accomodate the length of the jacket. When drawing to a smaller diameter and thinning the wall thickness, you are able to make a longer jacket with a narrower strip. You would have to figure out the exact width of the strip for every length of jacket in every caliber you would draw if you started out with a strip .013 thick. IMHO to much to go wrong. One mistake in the math is all it takes.

[Spanners]

Make some 44 cal jackets 1" long and you have a customer here - I'd take 1000 just to begin with

[Tikka308]

Dave A: Question - When the cup forms, does it stick? I imagine you'd have a big problem if it got stuck inside the "punch" die, as it's a blind hole?

[Honorstick]

Dave A: Question - When the cup forms, does it stick? I imagine you'd have a big problem if it got stuck inside the "punch" die, as it's a blind hole?

I'm thinking it's a thru hole so you could just keep pushing them thru.

[DAVE A]

That's right its a through hole the cups just keep stacking up until they come out the top.

[Tikka308]

FYI I started a little video series on my efforts of making these. Here's Part 1 - http://youtu.be/o0JVm76Y37I (I'm up to Part 4 so far; guessing it will take me about 10 videos in total).

I keep tweaking the design - based on my own thoughts, more information from folks here (Thanks again, Dave A) and feedback from viewers.

[Honorstick]

Really like what your doing there Tikka, good stuff.

[DAVE A]

Nice work Tikka I've been watching your videos and they have given me the inspiration to continue with my jacket making project I hope you don't mind but I have a suggestion that may or may not prove useful , on the cutting and drawing part of my die there is a taper from the edge to the bearing surface this bearing surface is only about 1/4" long there is then a small step to a larger ID when the drawn cup passes this step the material naturally springs back slightly preventing the cup from being brought back this also prevents the cup from damaging the next one drawn and so on ,I' hope this makes sense .
Keep up the good work
Dave

[Cane_man]

really good vid, i just like to do this and watch it swaging is so much fun... i would have never thought i would like swaging better than casting and reloading... the die making is the best part

are you using a hand crank hydraulic press?

[Tikka308]

Dave A - I *think* I understand what you mean - see attached photo - I have created a 'step' inside the yellow piece; once the cup is drawn over the purple punch, it can the loosely travel "upward" inside the yellow punch (or possibly exit out my "window" although that design is still TBD).

I wanted to ask if I had your permission to share your ideas and forum posts (e.g. video screenshots) on my YouTube videos - that OK?

[Tikka308]

Cane Man - press TBD. For sure, I'll start with the 12Ton shop press.

I've got a hydraulic power unit for my whitney punch (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fac6PelWnqM) which has quick-disconnect hoses. Thinking about buying a hydraulic cylinder and building a dedicated setup for this.

I've also had my eyes on a Bliss 30 ton

[MarkP]

All of the tooling I have worked with the jacket was stripped off of the punch at the bottom of the die stack, with a segmented spring loaded stripper. You can stack your dies to combine steps; I do not have a CAD program on this laptop, I will get on my WS and post a few drawings to show.

[DAVE A]

Tikka feel free to use any of the info I share on the forum
Ive just watched part 5 and it's looking good so far not sure about the window idea though it seems just a little over complicated but that may just be me,
I've spent some time on the lathe myself this weekend and made a start on a new die for my hydraulic press and parts for the next draw die,I keep intending to take videos but get so wrapped up in what I'm doing I forget so just a photo will have to do for now,
Keep up the good work I'm looking forward to part 6

Dave.

[Cane_man]

more kudos to Tikka for the vids... i am learning some things for sure! :kissarse:

you guys gotta check out the vids, lots of detail, i like the short segment on using the bench grinder as well

[Tikka308]

Dave - thanks! Super interesting little CNC lathe. DIY?