Gas supply seems to be fine...
Anything else to check?
The WH is only about 2.5 years old.
Brandon
Gas supply seems to be fine...
Anything else to check?
The WH is only about 2.5 years old.
Brandon
"When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat." - Ronald Reagan
Check for a build up soot around the orifice where the flame emanates. It may be causing the issue.
The Thermocouple is probably bad.
Second the thermocouple. HW heater should still be under warranty no ?
Does the pilot light burn? If not, try heating the thermocouple with a match or torch in the pilot position. Then turn it to on. If the burner lights, it's not the thermocouple.
I have seen where the gas feed to the thermocouple sometimes seems to plug up with some junk that can't be poked out.
Guns should only be allowed in places where people don't want to be shot.
...had the same issues a while back. I found a brass brush that resembles a toothbrush. I then taped it onto a wood dowel rod to lengthen it. Gently run the brush all around the igniter & thermocouple. If you take a strong flashlight and look in that area, you will probably see a "white" buildup of deposits. Mine has worked ever since.
Good Luck
Sprue ™
I thought all new gas appliances were electronic ignition. No standing pilot.
J
"The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen
"THESE are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands by it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph."
Thomas Paine
Clean the thermocouple of any soot and then inspect it. If it appears to be melted or burned through in any spot, replace it. Ensure that the coil does not touch any metal part between the tip and the threaded base.
Thermocouples generate a small electric current when heated, that electric current hold open the gas solenoid valve.
While you are at it, drain about 5 gallons of water from the drain valve on the heater.
Replace the thermocouple, cost is around $7 or less. Even if your thermocouple looks fine, still replace it. 99% ot the time this is the issue.
Robert
OK...
So I found a new thermocouple, newer style with 2 wires, cost $28 something.
Hooked it up, and no dice.
There is flame when you light the pilot, but the pilot will not stay lit.
I really would like a warm shower today...
"When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat." - Ronald Reagan
If the flame from the pilot is hitting the thermocouple and you change the thermocouple then the only other thing it can be if it won't stay lit is the control valve.
If the flame is not hitting the thermocouple then your problem is probably related to the flame not being big enough or strong enough to reach it. Clean the air inlet most of the time there's a small screen around it can get plugged with dust usually just some compressed air is enough to solve the problem
Is it a Whirlpool pre bent thermocouple because the price of the part tells me so pm me.
Look for a reset button. Many newer water heaters have have them. In the pic it is to the right and white in color. In the center is a push button. Most of the time there is a slight audible click or you feel it click. You also should have continuity through the switch with the wires off if you have a ohm meter.
If that is the problem you need to check the flame of the main burner and make sure it is flowing up and out of the water heater. If it is rolling out sideways you have a problem in the venting.
You may want to move the water heaters temp setting as some times they stick and overheat the switch. If all that is OK the switches do go bad.
The flame should envelope the thermocouple, as in surround the top 1/3-1/4 of it. The flame should be near blue and not soft and waveing like a candle flame. If the flame does not make sure that the t-couple is pushed in all the way forward. The quickest fix for a dirty pilot is to tap the pilot assembly with the end of a screwdriver. If there is a porcelain ignitor do not hit that. make sure the gas is flowing through the pilot when you do this by holding the pilot valve in so it carries away any dust or crud. I have not seen a 2 wire system on a WH but have been out of the service end for a few years. A screw in t/couple has a millivolt raring of 30 mv and 12-15 should be enough to hold the pilot safety in. A quick check with a volt meter will confirm this. Gas valves do go bad but it is rare. WH warranties were 5 yrs on tank and one year on the components for a long time. That leaves you out of luck @ 2.5 years.
If you have a barbeque lighter heat the thermocouple tip as the pilot is lit for no more than 30 seconds and check to see if it stays lit. If it does there is not enough heat to keep things lit. If not it is probably a valve issue with a new thermocouple. There may be a red reset button on a rollout switch. If there is too much heat that would indicate a venting failure and the system would lock out. Some are manually resetable others are a one time use. All of these components and connections eat voltage and you have only 30/1000 of a volt to work with. In the good old days a gas valve was 50% of the cost of a WH. I have no idea what they run now. In either case to drain the WH, replace the valve and check the system ran about 1 hr labor or almost the same as replacing the heater. AS a young hot shot if you were lucky you could stab a new one while the water was still on while pulling the old one with out loosing over a gallon of water if the shut off valves were shot. A 2 1/2 yr old WH might be new enough to take the risk of replacing it.
I am sending you my phone # by PM if I can help. Good luck with it.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
The valve on mine won't stay rotated in right place, so I had to duct-tape it into place. Just fully rotated it and applied the tape. Definite Beer Can Engineering.
So I pulled the burner out, and cleaned up around the pilot. Not that I saw anything there to begin with.
As far as the reset button, I wasn't sure just what it was, and I even bypassed it, thinking it may be the problem.
Still no dice. I am guessing that the valve is bad.
Frustrating...
Off to have a cold shower... at least I live in the desert!
Brandon
"When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat." - Ronald Reagan
Try taping it in place, I had same problem, pilot light would go on in start-up pilot light position and then it would go off when rotated into final spot. Discovered that it it was backing off, so I fully rotated into place and duct taped it into place.
"The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen
"THESE are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands by it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph."
Thomas Paine
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |