How rain resistant are the wood laminated stocks these days? Pics included

[M-Tecs]

Sounds good in theory but I am not sure it really works that way. This is based on installing a large number of laminated stocks on M-14's and M1A's in the late 80's and 90's. Fajens and Bishops mostly but if I remember correctly Rutland was the mill most of the laminated blanks came from. When finished with True Oil you could see expansion around the butt plate as the summer got more humid. After switching to the West Epoxy I stopped seeing any expansion or contraction. For EIC service rifle matches no sighters are allowed. The epoxy gave an extra level of confidence that your 600 zero for that range was always the same. For those that don't shoot NRA Highpower zero's for that range means physical location and altitude. You keep a book on your zeros for each range and yardage. My 600 home range yardage zero will be different than at the Nationals at Camp Perry or the All Guard matches at Camp Robbinson.

[CLAYPOOL]

Very nice info..!

[RED333]

Got mine from these guys, good people.
http://www.rifle-stocks.com/
7mm Rem Mag, yes the bolt in on the correct side!
About 10 coats on tung oil.

[Cmm_3940]

Here are a couple that I restocked with laminate.

Ruger 10/22:



Winchester Model 70:



Detail:



They both have a semigloss finish. The only thing that has been added to the surface of the material is a coat of gunstock wax. The wood fibers in this material are completely plasticized by the resin. There is absolutely no way any sort of oil finish would ever penetrate into the 'wood'. The surface can be buffed to a hard, glossy finish using a soft benchtop buffing wheel with some white buffing compound on it. Until now, this has been the only type of laminate that I have dealt with or been aware of. From what I've read here, there definitely seems to be widely divergent types of laminate material that need to be finished using whatever technique is appropriate to the individual material. Good to know.

Edit to add: I just remembered this, regarding water resistance. My Dad once made a whole bunch of custom knives using slabs of laminate as handle material, pinned and epoxied to the tangs. Mom used some of his rejects as beater knives, and sent them through the dishwasher a bunch of times. They did eventually come apart, but that was after extended immersion in HOT water.

[M-Tecs]

Rutland Plywood is/was a major supplier for the stock manufactures. On 21 August 14 the plant was destroyed by fire. Possible shortage for laminated stocks coming??

http://rutply.com/

http://rutply.com/pdf/RPC-Stratabond_web.pdf


Rutland Fire
http://www.wcax.com/story/26335038/i...-plywood-fires

http://www.rutlandherald.com/article...STIN/308229999

[country gent]

The eic matches were alot of fun I can remember no sighters and also ammo was issued for the days match. Ussually M852 for 308/7.62 and was special ball for 30-06. Having solid repeatable zeros was very important. I have one of the epoxy finished bishop heavy stocks on my good M1A and it was always very stabil in high humidity and rain. The high humidity is as hard or harder on wood than rain I think. The AMU sold me the stock from their extras. When I asked about finish I was told to just sand and use a scratch pad. When inletted for bedding and the rear block I never broke thru the epoxy impregnated wood. With the epoxy impregnation High speed burrs would cut but dulled quickly. It took carbide to last. This stocks zero are always on at 2 1/2 for 200. Front sight was also cut down to achieve this low zero. Even at a NRA regional, Team or oother matches only 2 sighter were allowed at each stage so being close was important. The pressure finished epoxy and laminates are much more stabil in the conditions used. I like the pressure epoxy finished stock alot as its stabil dont warp or bend and looks very close to Approximating the dull mititary finish. I believe a more open grain is a good thing with laminates and epoxy finish as it allows the epoxy to work in deeper and more complete. I have worked on m1as with the mcmillon fiberglass stocks and they are good but I perfer the wood as forearms cam be springy on the fiberglass stocks.

[howe0001]

I know this thread is very old. Hoping someone will see this and have an opinion... I know, I know, nobody ever has an opinion, right?

Here we go: I have used many "standard" laminated stocks. All with great success. In fact I prefer them. My question: I want to make something different. I saw a guy who made a stock using a herringbone patter of what looked like 3/4" square by 2" pieces. He made boards of this arrangement, them laminated the boards from top to bottom for his stock blank. I thought it turned out very nice. I know wood glue joints are stronger than wood (as it applies to this application) but just need a nudge of some opinions to continue with what I want to attempt. Here are some pictures of what I want to do:

3/8" blocks laminated together:


Another with 3/4" blocks laminated together:



Which would be stronger of any difference at all? My plan is to stabilize each plank (cherry) with cactus juice and laminated together (spoke with guy over at cactus juice, they recommend laminating after stabilizing). Using the smaller pieces of wood, I can source really good grain pieces for each section.

Anyway, opinions please if any.

Oh, if any interest, here is the link to my cnc'd test stocks (not to be ever used, only made to make sure programs were correct)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rgP5m4zpMFkU964K9

--Glenn

[LaPoint]

Glenn-
Your project is very interesting! Please keep us updated, maybe even start a new thread? I don't have an opinion, even an uneducated one. on which one is stronger. Possibly do a small test of both for strength/integrity. Thanks for posting.

LaPoint

[MUSTANG]

Opinion:

1. The thinner 3/8 blocks will be stronger and more stable than the 3/4 wider blocks.

2. Your orientation of the wood will look different (cool, or....) compared to traditional lamination - BUT will not be as strong nor as resistant to warpage as a traditional length wise wood lamination on a stock.

[Winger Ed.]

Cool project.

I'd question the wood glue though.
I've got a laminate heavy target stock on a Rem700 ADL that the blank was made with thin strips about 1/8th inch thick,
soaked in (I guess) a slow setting epoxy that was then left to set up while under a 60,000 pound press.

I'm happier with it than a dog with a new stick.