Pietta 1863 Pocket Remington brass frame strength?

[Edcknives]

Has anyone had issues or consider it an issue shooting cartridge rounds with a brass frame in this particular revolver? Would think the pressures wouldn't be pushing it enough but don't know first hand. I understand the brass frame restrictions in the .36 or .44/45. obviously the disclaimer by the different manufactures would be a no so no one would read it is okay for one and not another. Just was wondering if there was any real world experience with this particular revolver and cartridge (.32 S&W short)
Thanks

[Kermit1945]

I seem to recall reading at least one of the converter makers advising against shooting cartridges in a brass frame revolver--of any caliber. I'd imagine they would start getting loose fairly soon. Regardless of that, I just wouldn't. Brass on these replica revilvers says two things to me: 1) I'm flashy. 2) I'm cheap.

[Edcknives]

I seem to recall reading at least one of the converter makers advising against shooting cartridges in a brass frame revolver--of any caliber. I'd imagine they would start getting loose fairly soon. Regardless of that, I just wouldn't. Brass on these replica revilvers says two things to me: 1) I'm flashy. 2) I'm cheap.

The only reason I have the brass frame is it is the oly one available at this time. I have a steel frame one paid for ahead of time and by doing so is on priority back order, but it is still a waiting game. Kirst will be coming out with a new easy drop in conversion soon (different than their previous iteration) for .22 and will designate The brassie for that owhen they come out. In the mean time owould like to use the 32 S&W Taylor's conversion cylinder if I can.

[Nobade]

I wouldn't have a problem using one of those with cartridges, but would likely load them with round balls. So basically it would duplicate what it does anyway, just be faster to reload. I have one of those little guns made by ASM and have shot it quite a bit. For a while I was using 4F powder, until I noticed the cylinder making a print on the frame. So, stick with 3F and balls and it should be a dandy.

-Nobade

[Kermit1945]

So basically it would duplicate what it does anyway, just be faster to reload.

I have my doubts. I'd like to see someone carefully record the time spent on every step in reloading brass--EVERY step, no cheating--and compare that to equally careful timing of loading cap and ball in the field. I'd put my money on it being about a wash, at best. If you were to do an honest apprasial of the money outlay for reloading brass, I think it's more expensive.

[Nobade]

OK, how about this - the time for reloading is moved from one place to another? You can either spend it at home in front of the loading bench or on the firing line with your revolver. And yes, you do spend quite a bit more time preparing metallic cartridges than you do reloading your percussion revolver, and you do have to buy brass. But that lasts forever and primers are cheaper than caps right now, so you can call that even in the long run. Me, I like to load 'em on the line. No cases to deprime and clean that way!

-Nobade

[bob208]

well most of the real remington pocket .31's were brass framed.

i don't think it would hurt the guns to shoot them. we are talking about the .32 short. i would trust that in the brass frame remington. more then the break open pocket pistols i see it in.

[Briantllb]

I seem to recall reading at least one of the converter makers advising against shooting cartridges in a brass frame revolver--of any caliber. I'd imagine they would start getting loose fairly soon. Regardless of that, I just wouldn't. Brass on these replica revilvers says two things to me: 1) I'm flashy. 2) I'm cheap.

Of course the Remington .31 pocket pistol was originally made with a Brass frame. Remington changed to cast iron for cost reasons iron being cheaper than Brass. So maybe their modern shooter are just being true to the originals rather than being either flashy or cheap. Or maybe you simply weren't aware of that fact.

[johnsonian09]

In a brass frame I would not shoot anything hotter then mild 22lr with a conversion.

Or if your handloading any 30-32 caliber do not exceed 80ft-lb of energy at the muzzle and that’s being generous.


If reloading speed is your goal, paper cartridges, slix-shot nipples (fits cci&remington caps better) and a brass capper from cabelas ease the process.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bedbugbilly]

I have a 32 S & W Short Howell conversion but for a 1849 Colt Pocket. The paperwork clearly states ithat it is not to be used in a brass frame.

That said, I agree with what has been said on loading the 32 S & W Short with a soft lead round ball. I wouldn't go overboard on the BP charge - keep it moderate. I would also use 3F instead of 4F. The problem that might occur is the steel cylinder recoil peening into the brass recoil shield so I would keep close attention to that.

These little pocket models can be fun but they weren't made with the intent of being target pistols. I know that some use 4F in them but even a 32 S & W with a compressed load of 4F with a RB can make a stout little round that can play havoc with a brass frame - the same can happen over time using 4F in a percussion cylinder in a brass frame 32 pocket model regardless if is a Remington or Colt clone. At the price of what they cost, IMHO you want them to last and not beat them up - as the old saying goes, "just because you "can" do something doesn't mean you "should" do something" - use common sense.