simple Hi-Tek coating

[Jhopson]

2 new colours from HITEK.
Red Fire and HT Blue
This blue is stable when baked at elevated temps.
I baked the test samples at 205deg for 10 mins. My normal bake is 198deg C for 7 1/2 mins.
Attachment 306589
Attachment 306590

I have loaded the blue 125gn Conicals in 38 Supercomp Major power factor loads and fired 200 rounds yesterday in practice for IPSC. Zero fouling in the bore or the compensator of the STI TruBor race gun.

Those colors look really good. Can’t wait to try them out.


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[Ramjet-SS]

Wow this thread is treasure trove of information. So how does one gas check then use this coating. Or does everyone size after applying the coating. I have a couple of calibers that require sizing because they are autoloaders with tight chambers.

[Jags93]

I pop on the gas check after coating then size them. It’s no different than what your do for lubed lead.

Depending on the load/velocity you might not even need the gas check


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[HI-TEK]

Those colors look really good. Can’t wait to try them out.


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Hello Jhopson
You have to contact Hi Performance Bullet Coatings in US to get supplies.

[Ramjet-SS]

I pop on the gas check after coating then size them. It’s no different than what your do for lubed lead.

Depending on the load/velocity you might not even need the gas check


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Excellent thank you ����

[kevin c]

Say, Joe,

Somewhere in this massive thread you mentioned a solvent that helps remove HiTek that has been deposited in bores after shooting under cured boolits, but for the life of me I can’t massage the search tool to dig it out. What was the name of the stuff, please?

[HI-TEK]

Say, Joe,

Somewhere in this massive thread you mentioned a solvent that helps remove HiTek that has been deposited in bores after shooting under cured boolits, but for the life of me I can’t massage the search tool to dig it out. What was the name of the stuff, please?

Hello Kevin C
The solvent that may be useful is N-Methyl Pyrrolidone. It must be used as is and not mixed with any thing else, Use a mop to apply to the bore. Dont spill it on surfaces that may be damaged by the solvent Removal ability of coating, will greatly depend on how much heat the coatings was exposed to. I know it works with partially heat cured coatings, but fully cured coatings may be difficult to remove. After wetting bore with this solvent, leave 24 hours, then see if it worked.
Is there Leading in the bore? Before I advise with possible alternative treatment, I need to know if Lead is also present in the bore. Please advise.

[kevin c]

Thanks, Joe!

Knock on wood, I haven’t had the problem myself, but was trying to respond on another thread where I suggested that the OP’s problem might be undercured coating left in the barrel.

[barsik]

@HI TEK
how to remove the mold release from the cavities so the mold release can be re applied? some cavities are showing a bit of flaking and these cavities are getting stickier. mold release works great right at "frost" temp btw.

[HI-TEK]

@HI TEK
how to remove the mold release from the cavities so the mold release can be re applied? some cavities are showing a bit of flaking and these cavities are getting stickier. mold release works great right at "frost" temp btw.

Hello barsik
Just curious about your request. Can you please advise how you use the Mold Release. There should be no Flaking taking place. The release is achieved with only a stain on Mould internal surfaces.
Mould can be simply washed out with Acetone or MEK solvent. Re-apply only very thin coat to get best release. Release coating mixture is about 5 grams of Powdered Release agent to 150 Mls Acetone. This mixture is simply painted onto surfaces. After the coat is dry, you can polish it with a soft rag to leave a mirror finish release coating. My guess is, that "flaking" may be due to using excessive amount of released agent as excess material is simply not bonded to the metal.. Please advise and give us more details.

[Ausglock]

never seen the release flake.

I clean molds with acetone. then re-apply the release agent and warm them on a hotplate.
Let cool and brush the cavites and mold faces with a soft tooth brush.

[kevin c]

Joe, are you polishing the application of the release agent before heating, or afterwards as Trevor does it?

[HI-TEK]

Joe, are you polishing the application of the release agent before heating, or afterwards as Trevor does it?

You can polish before using it to cast, as is, or, after you heat treat Moulds.. ( I would not recommend polishing it when Moulds are hot) We also make another No-Bonded version, and it works well after simply applying the powder with a small brush, and polishing off excess.
The bonded version simply hold ingredients onto Mould a little better and for longer. Again, the release does not depend on the thickness of what was applied. Using too much, simply wastes material, and you wont get better results.

[wlkjr]

Hey peeps, y'all still alive and kicking? I coated about 900 115gr this week in K-15 black. Did some in the old dark green two weeks ago. The green ones shoot really well but I have a slight stain come off them. They pass the smash test and wipe test and I cook them at 400 degrees or higher for a least 15 minutes, but still get that little stain. Coating won't wipe off though.

[HI-TEK]

Hey peeps, y'all still alive and kicking? I coated about 900 115gr this week in K-15 black. Did some in the old dark green two weeks ago. The green ones shoot really well but I have a slight stain come off them. They pass the smash test and wipe test and I cook them at 400 degrees or higher for a least 15 minutes, but still get that little stain. Coating won't wipe off though.

Thank you for question.
Can you please send photo of finished coated cast, and photo of what wipes off, or forms the stain you refer to. Thank you

[wlkjr]

Trying to attach pic. Unsuccessful

[wlkjr]

[wlkjr]

That’s like pulling teeth

[Ausglock]

Hey peeps, y'all still alive and kicking? I coated about 900 115gr this week in K-15 black. Did some in the old dark green two weeks ago. The green ones shoot really well but I have a slight stain come off them. They pass the smash test and wipe test and I cook them at 400 degrees or higher for a least 15 minutes, but still get that little stain. Coating won't wipe off though.

Honestly.... If they shoot fine and don't foul the barrels, you are good to go.
When you say "slight stain" what is this stain on??
your fingers from handling them or on a cloth?

[Ausglock]

OK... that's nothing... good to go.
That is probably just the excess pigment.
the actual coating is fine.