pm sent
"A gun in the hands of a bad man is a very dangerous thing. A gun in the hands of a good person is no danger to anyone except the bad guys." ~ Charlton Heston, 1997
I did some gold powder yesterday, l like staining with 3 coats. Turned out good/115gr/hardlineindustries.com
1st coat looks almost like nothing there, then bake 1st coat to a lite gold tint. Then second and third.
My youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UozyDZ-44Q4
Iam still learning.
Last edited by gunoil; 01-04-2015 at 07:14 PM.
I had seen some lead at ending inch of barrel. Looks good and iam still learning. Some were shiny and other batch was not. What did l do wrong? My lead is hard.
Hi Gunoil,
Leading of last 1 inch of Barrel can be caused by several factors.
First things first.
The the shiny and not shiny ones size and smash OK?
Dull finishes, are usually indication of unevenly mixed and or applied brew, and coating mix contains higher levels of coloured ingredients leaving a less glossy surface.
Shiny finishes are mainly Resin with some (less) coloured materials and mainly resin..
This forms shiny coating.
Please try to provide a few more details with your process.
Gunoil.. Increase your bake time by a minute or 2.
Shiny or dull. mine work fine.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I am sure this has been talked about somewhere in the 4000 or so replys. Here in middle TN it's been unseasonably cold, highs in the mid 30s and lows in the teens. My workshop is in a shed/garage with no heat. Can I use the htek coating or do I need to wait until the weather warms up?
Good question.
Many in US are facing similar cold conditions and coating difficulties.
In simple terms, when cold, things don't dry well at all.
Having said that, there is a possible answer or answers.
1. Move to a warmer location...lol lol. not practical
2.
Turn on your baking oven.
Pre-warm your cast alloy, (placed above oven on a mesh,) to about 25-30C and then quickly coat a quantity you can manage easily.
Place them back on top of your oven on a mesh to allow rising warmed air from oven, to dry the coating.
Dry well, before baking and do not over heat whilst drying. You will have to do trials as to how long to warm, and before coating is totally dry.
NOTES
Don't rush drying process, & don't use too much coating mixtures.
Don't coat with heavy coats, (especially with first coat), as it wont dry adequately, and even if they feel dry, they wont be, and after baking them, they will fail smash test.
3.
Coating will reduce temperature of warm alloy during coatings process, and, placing them on top of your oven, to allow the coated alloy back to about starting temperature before coating.
Chilling during coating process, will attract moisture, and it will be difficult to dry when it is so cold in work area, so work quickly during coating and place coated projectiles on mesh on top of oven as soon as possible.
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH DRYING & SOLVENT VAPOURS, THEY ARE VERY FLAMMABLE.
Hope this helps
Well, hunting season is over for me for the year. Have seen more deer on the side of the road than in the field while hunting so no meat in the freezer.
One of the guys got this monster hunting at Xtreme Whitetail Adventures near my house. 34 points. I haven't been paying to hunt the Clubs so I got nada this year.
Going back to casting, coating, and testing loads. Was reading Dusty1234's comment about the temperatures here in the south US. Glad HI-TEK addressed. We have been down to 9 F a couple of times. Wind chill in the minus degree numbers. I coat in the basement which has some protection from the cold. But even there it can get in the 40s F. Will be pre heating alloy and drying over night to prevent failures.
Could of used some of that global warming out in the woods. Remembered that in the 1970s Scientist were telling us another ice age was coming as soon as 2025.
Last edited by Avenger442; 03-05-2019 at 03:21 PM.
Lol global warming that makes me laugh!!! With it being so cold I am wondering what the optimal temperature is working with HTEK?
Our pollies now call it climate change, not global warming.
What I can understand is, that the earth had peculiar climatic changes occurring over thousands of years, and before man could have had any influences, but those areas are not discussed.
It seems to me at least, that when there is moneys to be had with research for many years, any one and every one that has an opinion then is allowed to postulate and be financed to carry on research for years and until retirement.
If no proof or evidence is unearthed, who is going to be held responsible after spending lots of moneys.
Cant read: can l stain/coat alum gas checks? Cant remember.
Climate change is a normal process with and without biological participation. Biological participation in climate change has been an important and very positive (for us) phenomenon. Free oxygen in our atmosphere is a prime example. Humans may play a role in such change, it is quite reasonable that we are supposed to break down the wastes of ages past and do exactly what we are doing. Were are mere scurvy germs in the total mix of things.
By the way, to keep this on track, I have been shooting some HiTek boolits recently. They work OK, but smell funny.
prs
Just cook them about 1-2 minutes more.
Should not get smell.
Undercooked will cause smell, as heat generated from powder burn, causes further "reaction" with not combined residue of components, which all should have been used up during cooking.
This heating from powder, then will drive off odours and result in a smell.
If baked a little longer, majority of odorous materials should be gone and used up.
I am bit that way at present.
Too much Christmas cheer. Now, just recovering......
The coating will coat onto Aluminium, but not well, as Aluminium is a reactive metal, and may affect bond.
It is a case of try a few and see what happens.
Just curious why you want to use a gas check?
What are you loading and shooting?
From previous blogs, many have found that they dont need gas checks, as coating and correct sizing should fix things.
From my limited understanding, gas checks are there to prevent rear and sides of Alloy being molten by heat from powder burn, (gas cutting).
As coating reflects heat well, and you have a tight fit inside barrel, a coated alloy without gas check should work.
A lot will depend on alloy hardness and speed you are wanting to achieve.
Again, it all comes down to engineering requirements for the specific application.
OH, I have a rather large store of these from Bayou Bullets, so I did not do the cooking. Is it safe to shoot them this way, exposure to cook-off odor wise? They perform well enough.
And, to be clear, there is NO odor with them at all until shot. It is during shooting that the odor is noticed; similar to hot brake shoes.
prs
Last edited by prs; 01-12-2015 at 11:19 AM.
Iam just trying em out hiteck, thats all. Retire'ee gave me some. He does from 9mm up. I shot some and liked em. Gonna shot some more.
hitek, iam glad u had christmas cheer, do not stop.
Last edited by gunoil; 01-12-2015 at 12:01 PM.
Gunoil- I have used HiTek on aluminum gas checks 30 cal. with no problems. Recently switched to copper gas check and it looks better coated.
Joe- I believe gas checks also help in the pressure department as well as the heat. There has been a great deal of discussion on this. Someone could probably write a small book. They sure seem to help in the higher pressure rifle loads.
Avenger
You are correct with both areas, with pressure & heat advantages using gas checks.
Where now there is a difference is, that using hard alloy, and coating, with a tight fitting sized projectile, it seems that use of gas checks has become redundant to a certain extent.
I will try to put in my 5 cents worth here,
1, Coating has ability to reflect heat, so end of projectiles are not damaged with heat. Recovered rifle ammo, shows that coated projectile ends are intact, but darker from powder heat and deposits, and, most importantly, alloy is not heat damaged.
2. the rear of projectiles have same surface area to absorb energy produced by powder.
3. Using tight fitting and harder alloys, coated, seem to take pressures being generated with high energy powders, and accuracy is maintained and there is good sealing of barrel to obtain optimum pressure build up. (I am referring to non jacketed projectiles)
Many years ago, we had discussions with many folks about the coating being responsible, for may be, having to re-write some handbooks.
The problem is, that to gather all information using all the many possibility and variations with ammo manufacture, it is a huge task to write an book.
It would be great if we or someone else could do it.
They would sell millions of books.
Unfortunately, we don't have access to all manner of guns, and ammo to test and record data.
It is a huge ask, to then produce user friendly book.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |