simple Hi-Tek coating

[gundownunder]

OK, so who do I have to speak to to get some of this stuff in Perth and what will it cost me in Ozzy dollars.

Did the question get missed or am I on the wrong side of the country?

[Jumbopanda]

Hey Trevor, I don't know if this has been covered before, but how much do you pay for Hi-Tek locally in Australia?

[Ausglock]

At this point in time, It isn't actually being sold in OZ to home casters.

Maybe a PM to HI-TEK will answer your questions.

[Ausglock]

Well. the Bright Yellow did darken a bit when cooked.

It is now a Desert Tan colour (Light Caramel)
Any desert dwellers want a desert camo bullet coating???

[goblism]

Has anyone tried using this coating on gas check bullets without a gas check? Have a few molds that are gas check but don't have a lot of time to experiment right now.

[prickett]

I have some pure lead Lee 93gr RN coated up to try in my little H&R 32 S&W and my Nagant revolvers. Might shoot some of them thru my Contender 300 Whisper carbine barrel to see what happens at higher than 1,000 fps velocity.

I did water quench between coating and it had no effect on the hardness.

Leadman,
Can you clarify? Did you water quench the pure lead? Or an alloy? If pure lead, quenching wouldn't have any effect. If alloy, then darn it!

[hawaii five-0]

Is it O.K to let them dry for a long while before baking? Like, can I just leave them out till I have 3 or 4 batches ready for the oven? Or is it better to bake as I go?

[HI-TEK]

Is it O.K to let them dry for a long while before baking? Like, can I just leave them out till I have 3 or 4 batches ready for the oven? Or is it better to bake as I go?

You can leave them after coating and drying until you have adequate to bake at one time.
Coating will not be damaged by storage if dry.
Generally, mots cast as much as they can, then, coat and dry well even if they leave drying over night, and then bake tray after tray until all is done.
When cool, re do exactly as previously.
It should all be fine.
HI-TEK

[HI-TEK]

The testing today went great.
All bullets were sized to .356.
All testing done at 25 yards on an IPSC Classic Target (all "A" Zone hits).
Note that the target patches are 1" in dia.
All testing done in a Kimber Stainless Target II in 38 Super.
And an SVI single stack Racegun with 4 port compensator in 38 Supercomp.

I also pumped the remaining rounds through a Para P (something) in 38 Super.
All up, over 200 rounds were fired with Zero leading in any gun.
I love this supercoat.

The New Black: Lee 125gr RNFP .358 sized down to .356

Black with normal catalyst shot well. Barrel clean and reasonably accurate. See pic 1. Average Velocity was 1150 FPS
Attachment 76126
Black with extreme catalyst shot better. Barrel clean and accurate. See pic 2. Average Velocity was 1145 FPS
Attachment 76127
Black with 2-Extreme catalyst shot great. Barrel clean and very accurate. See pic 3 Average Velocity was 1155 FPS
Attachment 76128
The dog dick red shot great and very accurate. Barrel clean. Lee 120gr Con
The red/maroon was the same very good accuracy and clean. See pic 4 Average Velocity was 1147 FPS Lee 120gr Con
Attachment 76129
The blue also shot great and was clean. See pic 5 Average Velocity was 1152 FPS Lee 120gr Con
Attachment 76130
The blue/green was coated on a Lee 125gr Round nose bullet and fired from an SVI racegun at 1350FPS at major power factor.
These grouped bloody fantastic. See pic 6
Attachment 76131
All the loads had 10 shots fired from a rest at the target and another 10 fired off hand to check for smoke.
All loads gave very little smoke. I was going to take photos of the smoke, but it wasn't worth it. Tried a few times, but the smoke would not show up on the photo. All you could see was sky.The only fouling in the barrels was powder fouling.
The 4 port compensator on the Racegun was clean with no lead buildup at all.

Great result.
Just to add some data, I had a reply from another test on the 2_extreme catalyst from a manufacturer.
Coated projectiles 158 grain, 360 diameter were sized down to 354 diameter.
Report was that this severe sizing did not damage the coating, left no marks at rear or projectiles, and sizing machinery was noticeably less stressed during punch operation.
Coating on long surfaces was perfect with no marks at all with severe deformations.
HI-TEK

[leadman]

prickett, I water quenched and 11 BHn alloy that will normally wq from the mold to at least 18. There was no change between coatings when water quenched.

When I posted about the pure lead boolits I am going to try I did not water quench them. I did the same 11 bhn alloy that I normally use.

I did discover one nice thing about the coating. If you have a mold that drops a seriously out of round boolit you can coat it and then size with no distortion to the driving bands. The alloy just moves around to where it should be. I did some boolits that were about .310" by .316" in a .311" push thru die and they came out .311" and round.

The coated boolits I heated to 375 degrees for one hour and then water quenched were originally 11 BHN yesterday, today they are 14 bhn and no change in the color of the coating and they passed the hammer test!

[Ausglock]

Leadman.
I have a heap of COWW and Pure lead. What mixture should I use to be able to WQ with this alloy mixture?
Thanks.

[prs]

Why specify #7 shot? Chilled and magnum shots of all sizes I have known supposedly have arsenic trace and some small antimony content. The arsenic trace is just that and all it takes, it sort of sets off a cascade effect of crystallization; or some such rot as I have been told.

prs

[BBQJOE]

Hey guys I need some help here. I'm doing my first hi-tek bullets in gold. They're coming out kinda rough and gritty. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?

[bstone5]

Try using a little more acetone, my first try resulted in rough bullets with the gold color, the coating needs to very thin for the first coat. The first try resulted in bullets with a grainy surface and not very smooth with deep brown grains and a gold surface.
The rough finished bullets still shot fine but looked a little funny.


I found two very thin coats resulted in a much smoother surface of the coating. Two coatings worked fine in 9 mm and 38 caliber bullets.

The small 9 mm, 95 grain bullet for the 380 auto was harder to get a smooth finish on the 158 SWC for the 38 Special.

The two thin coatings resulted in no lead in the barrel of 4 different guns the the loaded ammo was shot with.

[BBQJOE]

Try using a little more acetone, my first try resulted in rough bullets with the gold color, the coating needs to very thin for the first coat. The first try resulted in bullets with a grainy surface and not very smooth with deep brown grains and a gold surface.
The rough finished bullets still shot fine but looked a little funny.


I found two very thin coats resulted in a much smoother surface of the coating. Two coatings worked fine in 9 mm and 38 caliber bullets.

The small 9 mm, 95 grain bullet for the 380 auto was harder to get a smooth finish on the 158 SWC for the 38 Special.

The two thin coatings resulted in no lead in the barrel of 4 different guns the the loaded ammo was shot with.

Thanks, I'll try that right now.

[Ausglock]

BBQJOE.
If you are mixing 5-1-5 then yes, it will be a bit blotchy.
to the 5-1-5-mix. Add another 2 parts of acetone to take it to 5-1-7.
You will find that this will coat better.
I am currently mixing 5-1-10.
this allows you to use a lot more mixed coating into the bucket to swirl and get the colour into the grooves and gives better full coating, but you are still only using the exact same amount of resin and catalyst.
The bullets come out of the oven a shiny smooth finish.
Have a look at the desert tan bullets I put a photo of, they are smooth and shiny. that is the 5-1-10 mix.

Remember. it is far better to use too much acetone than not enough.
I have even mixed to 5-1-20 trying to get a blue to stop going dark green when cooked. the coating was perfect at this mix. just a shame the blue colour didn't want to play the game......

Popper. Thanks for the info.
If I was to add 6 COWW. 4 Pure and 1/2 pewter. Would this add enough copper (from the pewter) chilled shot is very expensive here. I have a shotmaster shot maker that has not been used for 20 years. I'm thinking of kicking it in the guts and making shot again.

[BBQJOE]

I tried three thinned out coats. hardly left any color, but you could tell there was a coating on them. I loaded up a mag of 9mm, and proceed to lead the daylights out of my barrel.
I think part of my trouble is the baking time. I'm going at 375° for 8-10 minutes. I'm also seeing them get all grainy if left in much longer, but come out gooey if left in much less.

[BBQJOE]

Another question. When they come out of the oven are they dry or still tacky?

[BBQJOE]

I guess today will be filed under miserable failure. What am I doing wrong guys???
This was three not real heavy coats.

[leadman]

The acetone evaporates very fast so keep it in a closed container before use and cap it up immediately after dispensing. You also may not be shaking the color enough. The solids tend to go to the bottom and want to stay there.
Have you tested the coating of your boolits with a rag an acetone to see if any color comes off. This is how you tell if you have baked them long enough. Preheat your oven so it is already at temperature. If you get no color to rub off smack the top of one with a hammer and see if the coating flakes. It should stay in place on the boolit.
Also when tumbling the boolits it only takes like 20 seconds. If you can feel them start to clump together you may be tumbling them too long.