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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #14701
    Boolit Master

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    I find it a lot easier than PC. You don't have to worry about standing the bullets up. It is a very clean operation compared to PC plus you do not get an overly thick coat.

  2. #14702
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've never tried powder coating but Hi-Tek is really easy. Side question: Does the non powdered version still exist? If so, does anyone use it?

  3. #14703
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by wlkjr View Post
    I've never tried powder coating but Hi-Tek is really easy. Side question: Does the non powdered version still exist? If so, does anyone use it?
    I use both kinds. Both work extremely well, the powder version may be is a little easier to mix.

  4. #14704
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    @ HI TEK how to remove the liquid form of your mold release from my mold blocks? I've tried immersing the blocks for weeks in acetone and then in paint stripper and now brake cleaner (non chlorinated) and nothing touches that mold release. the reason I want to remove it is that I have to run my pot hotter than I like (for whatever reason the bullets fall out nicely when the blocks are really hot but they are still "soft" when they drop and many bullets show dented bands and bases, plus the coating has flaked off in spots. running the blocks and pot a bit cooler makes the bullets stick in the cavities. how do I get that stuff off?

  5. #14705
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    Quote Originally Posted by barsik View Post
    @ HI TEK how to remove the liquid form of your mold release from my mold blocks? I've tried immersing the blocks for weeks in acetone and then in paint stripper and now brake cleaner (non chlorinated) and nothing touches that mold release. the reason I want to remove it is that I have to run my pot hotter than I like (for whatever reason the bullets fall out nicely when the blocks are really hot but they are still "soft" when they drop and many bullets show dented bands and bases, plus the coating has flaked off in spots. running the blocks and pot a bit cooler makes the bullets stick in the cavities. how do I get that stuff off?
    is it the white liquid release or the dark grey release?
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  6. #14706
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    Quote Originally Posted by barsik View Post
    @ HI TEK how to remove the liquid form of your mold release from my mold blocks? I've tried immersing the blocks for weeks in acetone and then in paint stripper and now brake cleaner (non chlorinated) and nothing touches that mold release. the reason I want to remove it is that I have to run my pot hotter than I like (for whatever reason the bullets fall out nicely when the blocks are really hot but they are still "soft" when they drop and many bullets show dented bands and bases, plus the coating has flaked off in spots. running the blocks and pot a bit cooler makes the bullets stick in the cavities. how do I get that stuff off?
    barsik
    If you are using the Grey Mould release agent, this Mould release agent is not soluble, and nothing stick to it or wets it out, that is why you cant dissolve it. It is also heat stable to 800C or more.
    If you were using Aqualube, as a release agent, this should not be used as a release agent and can be only removed with an abrasive polish type system. Aqualube is also not soluble in any cleaning system.

    I am puzzled about you saying that you have "flaking that came off" . There should not be any flakes coming off surfaces, unless you applied far too much in the first place to have such a thick build up.

    To concentrate on removal, you need to use an abrasive type cleaner. What you can initially try is Toothpaste, brushed with an old tooth brush to scrub/polish off surface release agent.

    Toothpaste contains abrasive powder and detergent that may assist with polishing off the release agent.
    You also can try using valve grinding polishing paste, (the finer grade) using as stiff brush or a Dremel with buffing wheel attached. You can try almost anything, that cleans or polishes metal, making sure it is a very fine polishing media. You can also try using car paint buffing/polishing paste compound with a small power tool that has a soft buffing wheel attached. You should be able to polish off surface residue.
    In reference to dented bands and bases, you may be dropping the casts far too hot, and the alloy is soft, (Partly molten internally) and can be easily damaged by falling out of the Mould and hitting hard surfaces.
    With running pot a bit cooler, should not affect release property of the Mold release agent. It is a mystery why you would not get release at normal temperature uses. It needs further exploration of what is actually happening. Generally, casting at cooler conditions, the alloy does not shrink as much with cooling, and if Moulds do not release those, the Mould needs to be examined.

  7. #14707
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    I myself am just a little unclear on reading the last few posts: are we talking about the bonding mold release, that comes as a gray powder usually is painted on with acetone as a carrier, originally designed for metal molds for glass, the one that bonds well to metal at around 900°F, much less so at lead alloy casting temps, but still well enough to last many, many cycles, the one I read should be applied sparingly but could be polished to remove the excess and which could also be removed more completely with acetone, even after casting? Are you saying that if the mold ever did get to 900°, the removal of the release agent takes much more aggressive action, or is that just for AquaLube that was mistakenly applied and heat set, or are we talking about something new?

    Maybe I’m just confused in trying to put together what I gleaned from many scattered posts about release agents that have been put up in this and other threads over the past several months. If so, I’m sorry about running on; I’m trying to list the things I think apply to what I have, in hopes of confirming that it has the properties I think it does. )^;

    PS Alan doesn’t list the new blues at HPBC; I hope he orders them…
    Last edited by kevin c; 01-15-2023 at 08:57 PM.

  8. #14708
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    I myself am just a little unclear on reading the last few posts: are we talking about the bonding mold release, that comes as a gray powder usually is painted on with acetone as a carrier, originally designed for metal molds for glass, the one that bonds well to metal at around 900°F, much less so at lead alloy casting temps, but still well enough to last many, many cycles, the one I read should be applied sparingly but could be polished to remove the excess and which could also be removed more completely with acetone, even after casting? Are you saying that if the mold ever did get to 900°, the removal of the release agent takes much more aggressive action, or is that just for AquaLube was mistakenly applied and heat set, or are we talking about something new?

    Maybe I’m just confused in trying to put together what I gleaned from many scattered posts about release agents that have been put up in this and other threads over the past several months. If so, I’m sorry. ��
    Kevin C
    I am hoping that we are all talking about the Grey Mould release agents. Yes, the bonding and non-bonding release agents are applied as very thin coats usually pre-mixed in a solvent, so very thin even coats can be applied, then, when dry, should be polished to remove excess before use. They both can be brushed onto surfaces as a dry powder also, and excess polished off before using the Moulds.
    By polishing off excess you get a mirror finish transfer shape of your Moulds to cast alloy.
    The bonded version, has "adhesion agents", that hold the release agents on the surface for much longer periods, as required for auto casters. The "adhesion agent" will start to cure at about 500C, which is well above cast alloy temperatures.
    The Grey bonded version that is being supplied, is a modified version of our original Molten glass release agent. If the bonded version is subjected to excessive temperatures well above intended use in alloy casting, the bonding agent will set, and removal can be achieved with abrasive cleaning. If bonded version residue requires removal after use, it can be simply polished off with suitable polishing product like I mentioned in my previous blog.
    What I gathered with information supplied by barsik is, that he had advised of "flaking" of the release agent.
    This is suggesting to me, that there may have been an over application on surfaces, and excess was not removed after initial application.
    It is also possible, that there was an overuse/application in the first instance and excess not removed by polishing.

    Both the bonding and non-bonding release agents are recommended to be applied thinly, and polished before use, to produce a very even film and before using Moulds for casting.

    Aqualube is a slightly milky material, and leaves a dry whitish to clear highly slippery dry film, and is water based lubricating product. Aqualube, is used for reducing sizing loads however can be used for lubricating most any two surfaces..
    If Aqualube was used mistakenly for Mould release, at casting temperatures, it would melt on the Mould surface and become a continuous film. If this is what happened, this film also can only be removed with abrasive method, as both the non fused, and as is dry film of Aqualube, when dry, will not mix with anything else, and will not be soluble in any cleaner for easy removal.
    Instruction on Aqualube use, specifically advises of such details.

  9. #14709
    Boolit Master
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    Thank you, Joe!

  10. #14710
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    Thank you, Joe!
    Kevin C, you are welcome.
    Sometimes, I do get a little carried away with writing too much.
    It probably bore many people, but I like to make sure I reply to all questions adequately and thoroughly.
    I hope I have clarified matters and, await reply from barsik to see how he went with removal suggestions.

  11. #14711
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    What is the difference between HyteK and Powder Coat?

  12. #14712
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    Quote Originally Posted by elmacgyver0 View Post
    What is the difference between HyteK and Powder Coat?
    elmacgyver0, aside from both being powders, there are many differences, both in chemical make up and properties.
    Just curious just how much detail are you seeking.
    This is Hi-Tek heat resistance link https://www.youtube.com/shorts/icq4UAvXyNY
    The video shows what happens with Hi-Tek even in molten alloy, does not burn, and protects coated alloy by reflecting heat from molten alloy.
    From what was advised, when trying to recycle Powder coated alloy, the powder coating decomposes and produces strong nasty odor and catches fire.
    Please advise what specifically you are seeking.

  13. #14713
    Boolit Master
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    Hitek is actually designed to be a Bullet coating.
    Powder coat is designed for Lawn furniture.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  14. #14714
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by barsik View Post
    @ HI TEK how to remove the liquid form of your mold release from my mold blocks? I've tried immersing the blocks for weeks in acetone and then in paint stripper and now brake cleaner (non chlorinated) and nothing touches that mold release. the reason I want to remove it is that I have to run my pot hotter than I like (for whatever reason the bullets fall out nicely when the blocks are really hot but they are still "soft" when they drop and many bullets show dented bands and bases, plus the coating has flaked off in spots. running the blocks and pot a bit cooler makes the bullets stick in the cavities. how do I get that stuff off?
    barsik
    How did you go with my suggestions to remove release agent?
    Would appreciate your feed back.

  15. #14715
    Boolit Master


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    Does anyone notice that Kryptonite green seems to take less time?

    I’ve used it maybe twice now and it seems to cook up really well.

    My temp control isn’t perfect so I might be a bit over temp. This was also taken under poor lighting at night so maybe not the best representation. Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #14716
    Boolit Master
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    KG is very good. it does darken with temp swings.
    I can run 2 trays of 250 at once in my oven in 7 1/2 mins.
    Colour is very uniform from bake to bake.
    PID control keeps the over temp to 2deg C of set temp of 198 Deg C.
    I also run K15 at the same settings.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  17. #14717
    Boolit Master


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    Thanks Trevor.

    I think I’m running about a 400 setpoint based off of my dial thermometer. That being said it can of course jump a little during heat cycle. So I’ll drop it down a bit and see how they look.

    Thanks man!

  18. #14718
    Boolit Master
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    Decided to do a tutorial for coatings. I still have quite a bunch of the 3 part. Been working on a channel lately, bought some new powder form, and went to town. Maybe this can help some of you with questions.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9x6XEXPjs0
    Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!

  19. #14719
    Boolit Master
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    Good work on the Video.
    But..... Teaspoons??????? really???
    Christ... that would do my head in.
    Grams and Millilitres are far easier to calculate when mixing small amounts.
    And a 10ml syringe for adding coating to the bullets is far easier and cleaner.

    20 gms to 100mls acetone
    40gms to 200mls acetone.
    Small mix??? 5gms to 25mls acetone.
    see how easy it is?

    I mix 40gms to 200 mls acetone and store it in the fridge. It will store there for months with no issues.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  20. #14720
    Boolit Master
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    Lol for sure. You know us folks over the pond all still don't grasp as a nation the Grams and ML thing. We have easy access to teaspoons though . Love the "new" powder form. I bet I still have 3 liters or so of the 3 part stuff from back in the day. I bought the powder just to have the ability to do that video. I am trying to put in video for what many of us for years have been talking about on these forums. I have introduced some newbies to casting lately and am trying to have an inclusive library for those starting out. Many of us don't have that crazy neighbor like me that casts, shoots, and hunts all the time.
    Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!

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