MidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Titan ReloadingWideners
Lee Precision

Page 734 of 734 FirstFirst ... 234634684724725726727728729730731732733734
Results 14,661 to 14,673 of 14673

Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #14661
    Vendor Sponsor

    Jhopson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    2 new colours from HITEK.
    Red Fire and HT Blue
    This blue is stable when baked at elevated temps.
    I baked the test samples at 205deg for 10 mins. My normal bake is 198deg C for 7 1/2 mins.
    Attachment 306589
    Attachment 306590

    I have loaded the blue 125gn Conicals in 38 Supercomp Major power factor loads and fired 200 rounds yesterday in practice for IPSC. Zero fouling in the bore or the compensator of the STI TruBor race gun.
    Those colors look really good. Canít wait to try them out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    John 15:13
    Greater love hath no man than this, that a man lay down his life for his friends.

  2. #14662
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NE Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,377
    Wow this thread is treasure trove of information. So how does one gas check then use this coating. Or does everyone size after applying the coating. I have a couple of calibers that require sizing because they are autoloaders with tight chambers.

  3. #14663
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    19
    I pop on the gas check after coating then size them. Itís no different than what your do for lubed lead.

    Depending on the load/velocity you might not even need the gas check


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #14664
    Boolit Master




    HI-TEK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,113
    Quote Originally Posted by Jhopson View Post
    Those colors look really good. Canít wait to try them out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hello Jhopson
    You have to contact Hi Performance Bullet Coatings in US to get supplies.

  5. #14665
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NE Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,377
    Quote Originally Posted by Jags93 View Post
    I pop on the gas check after coating then size them. It’s no different than what your do for lubed lead.

    Depending on the load/velocity you might not even need the gas check


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Excellent thank you ����

  6. #14666
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,441
    Say, Joe,

    Somewhere in this massive thread you mentioned a solvent that helps remove HiTek that has been deposited in bores after shooting under cured boolits, but for the life of me I can’t massage the search tool to dig it out. What was the name of the stuff, please?

  7. #14667
    Boolit Master




    HI-TEK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,113
    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    Say, Joe,

    Somewhere in this massive thread you mentioned a solvent that helps remove HiTek that has been deposited in bores after shooting under cured boolits, but for the life of me I canít massage the search tool to dig it out. What was the name of the stuff, please?
    Hello Kevin C
    The solvent that may be useful is N-Methyl Pyrrolidone. It must be used as is and not mixed with any thing else, Use a mop to apply to the bore. Dont spill it on surfaces that may be damaged by the solvent Removal ability of coating, will greatly depend on how much heat the coatings was exposed to. I know it works with partially heat cured coatings, but fully cured coatings may be difficult to remove. After wetting bore with this solvent, leave 24 hours, then see if it worked.
    Is there Leading in the bore? Before I advise with possible alternative treatment, I need to know if Lead is also present in the bore. Please advise.

  8. #14668
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,441
    Thanks, Joe!

    Knock on wood, I haven’t had the problem myself, but was trying to respond on another thread where I suggested that the OP’s problem might be undercured coating left in the barrel.
    Last edited by kevin c; 11-22-2022 at 01:05 PM.

  9. #14669
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    12
    @HI TEK
    how to remove the mold release from the cavities so the mold release can be re applied? some cavities are showing a bit of flaking and these cavities are getting stickier. mold release works great right at "frost" temp btw.

  10. #14670
    Boolit Master




    HI-TEK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,113
    Quote Originally Posted by barsik View Post
    @HI TEK
    how to remove the mold release from the cavities so the mold release can be re applied? some cavities are showing a bit of flaking and these cavities are getting stickier. mold release works great right at "frost" temp btw.
    Hello barsik
    Just curious about your request. Can you please advise how you use the Mold Release. There should be no Flaking taking place. The release is achieved with only a stain on Mould internal surfaces.
    Mould can be simply washed out with Acetone or MEK solvent. Re-apply only very thin coat to get best release. Release coating mixture is about 5 grams of Powdered Release agent to 150 Mls Acetone. This mixture is simply painted onto surfaces. After the coat is dry, you can polish it with a soft rag to leave a mirror finish release coating. My guess is, that "flaking" may be due to using excessive amount of released agent as excess material is simply not bonded to the metal.. Please advise and give us more details.

  11. #14671
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NSW North Coast, Australia
    Posts
    3,128
    never seen the release flake.

    I clean molds with acetone. then re-apply the release agent and warm them on a hotplate.
    Let cool and brush the cavites and mold faces with a soft tooth brush.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  12. #14672
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,441
    Joe, are you polishing the application of the release agent before heating, or afterwards as Trevor does it?

  13. #14673
    Boolit Master




    HI-TEK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,113
    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    Joe, are you polishing the application of the release agent before heating, or afterwards as Trevor does it?
    You can polish before using it to cast, as is, or, after you heat treat Moulds.. ( I would not recommend polishing it when Moulds are hot) We also make another No-Bonded version, and it works well after simply applying the powder with a small brush, and polishing off excess.
    The bonded version simply hold ingredients onto Mould a little better and for longer. Again, the release does not depend on the thickness of what was applied. Using too much, simply wastes material, and you wont get better results.

Page 734 of 734 FirstFirst ... 234634684724725726727728729730731732733734

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check