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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #14341
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
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    I took some Tru Blu that was mixed back in Feb that has been stored in the fridge and coated with it tonight. Works perfectly. colour is the same as back in Feb.

    Your DG looks closer to KG.
    Your unbaked DG acually looks lighter than the unbaked DG I have here. it really looks like unbaked KG.
    Your blue looks like my blue.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  2. #14342
    Boolit Man Jatz357's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    I took some Tru Blu that was mixed back in Feb that has been stored in the fridge and coated with it tonight. Works perfectly. colour is the same as back in Feb.

    Your DG looks closer to KG.
    Your unbaked DG acually looks lighter than the unbaked DG I have here. it really looks like unbaked KG.
    Your blue looks like my blue.
    I was saying dark green because that's what was on the label of the product Joe sent. I haven't had any experience with other greens, so I don't really know the difference.

  3. #14343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jatz357 View Post
    I was saying dark green because that's what was on the label of the product Joe sent. I haven't had any experience with other greens, so I don't really know the difference.
    That sample of Dark Green you received was a test on new suppliers of various ingredients. The mixture of that Dark Green you tested was a basic test mix to see what happens with IR baking.
    The final "Darkness" of the final colour was not important with that sample. At least we know, that the coating cured OK and produced a IR bake able and stable coating.
    Just for curiosity, what was product exit temperature from the oven of the coated cast, as per your photo?

  4. #14344
    Boolit Man Jatz357's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    That sample of Dark Green you received was a test on new suppliers of various ingredients. The mixture of that Dark Green you tested was a basic test mix to see what happens with IR baking.
    The final "Darkness" of the final colour was not important with that sample. At least we know, that the coating cured OK and produced a IR bake able and stable coating.
    Just for curiosity, what was product exit temperature from the oven of the coated cast, as per your photo?
    I'm pretty sure those ones were test baked at my normal oven settings and exit temp was 205 degrees C after 5:35 mins.

    Below is the comparison image showing results for different temperatures and bake times.


  5. #14345
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    Well I tried coating about 100 265 gun 44 rnfp. First coat was so light I could hardly tell if the coating was on them (gold). I put em in an old toaster oven stays at 385-395. They came out with a nice lite gold color but several didn't deem to take the coating, Rest passed the smash and whipe test. I pulled several that didn't cover well and recoated the rest for two more cycles.....they passed both tests but some are more gold than others. Not sure why or if it matters but would like thoughts on the few that didn't seem to take first coat. I simply cast them and dropped em on soft clean rags. The gas checks went on the three coaters quite well.

  6. #14346
    Boolit Master
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    I'm trying to make sure I'm reading this right. Are you saying that using a 1500w infrared oven for home use is worth trying or not to bother? If it speeds things up at all, and still produces good quality bullets, wouldn't it be worth giving it a go?
    [

  7. #14347
    Boolit Man Jatz357's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by echo154 View Post
    Well I tried coating about 100 265 gun 44 rnfp. First coat was so light I could hardly tell if the coating was on them (gold). I put em in an old toaster oven stays at 385-395. They came out with a nice lite gold color but several didn't deem to take the coating, Rest passed the smash and whipe test. I pulled several that didn't cover well and recoated the rest for two more cycles.....they passed both tests but some are more gold than others. Not sure why or if it matters but would like thoughts on the few that didn't seem to take first coat. I simply cast them and dropped em on soft clean rags. The gas checks went on the three coaters quite well.
    Not sure why some would "take" the coating better than others.

    Without seeing what they look like, my thoughts is small batches are more difficult to obtain an even coat, especially if agitating by hand rather than tumbling. The ones that have direct contact with the coating when the coating is poured into the bucket will have a heavier coat compared to the others that have coating transferred to them from shaking around. That's my experience anyway.

  8. #14348
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    echo154
    I hate to say it, but I think you did not shake up diluted made up product when taking out quantity to coat your casts.
    The ingredients settle quickly so you must mix, and immediately suck out with a Syringe the amount needed to coat. Squirt it onto your casts and shake coat quickly, (10-15 seconds).
    Dump wet coated cast onto a wire mesh, not a cloth. and dry well. It is better to have some old newspapers under the mesh to catch any excess liquid.

  9. #14349
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    I have never had excess coating make it through the mesh tray.
    If you do, you are using far far too much.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  10. #14350
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    I actually used 50ml acetone to 152 grns of coating in a clear squirt bottle(old ketchup) design. shook for 45 seconds in a 1/2 gallon paint bucket then put them on screen to dry overnight. Put it over concrete at 100 dg to finish drying(humidity 99%) then 385-405 for 8-9minutes..not good with electronics but will try to get pictures when my nephew visits. I'll look into a syringe. only doing small batches till I get it going good. I will say after dealing with some "top of the line companies" dealing with You and HI Tek have been the best.......almost makes me wish I was Austrailian ...of course I live in Illinois

  11. #14351
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    After trying to decipher the last few pages, I'm thinking about using a cheap 1750 watt infrared oven (pizza warmer). Do you all think holds any advantage over the conventional cheap convection oven (Hamilton Beach) I now use?

    I've moved up to coating 12 gauge shotgun slugs if that makes a difference.
    [

  12. #14352
    Boolit Man Jatz357's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbitNutz View Post
    After trying to decipher the last few pages, I'm thinking about using a cheap 1750 watt infrared oven (pizza warmer). Do you all think holds any advantage over the conventional cheap convection oven (Hamilton Beach) I now use?

    I've moved up to coating 12 gauge shotgun slugs if that makes a difference.
    Can't give much advice re "pizza warmer" If it is a halogen infrared it may not be suitable although, I have not completed any testing with halogen infrared. My thought is it will be too intense and possibly heat the outer surface facing the infrared source too fast compared to the underside and give uneven cured and colour results.

    Also I haven't tested anything as large as 12guage. Pretty sure infrared would work but would need to tweak temps and bake times.

    You may have to do your own research and see what happens.

  13. #14353
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by echo154 View Post
    I actually used 50ml acetone to 152 grns of coating in a clear squirt bottle(old ketchup) design. shook for 45 seconds in a 1/2 gallon paint bucket then put them on screen to dry overnight. Put it over concrete at 100 dg to finish drying(humidity 99%) then 385-405 for 8-9minutes..not good with electronics but will try to get pictures when my nephew visits. I'll look into a syringe. only doing small batches till I get it going good. I will say after dealing with some "top of the line companies" dealing with You and HI Tek have been the best.......almost makes me wish I was Australian ...of course I live in Illinois
    Even coming from Illinois you wouldn't like their gun laws. Why don't you move to Texas.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  14. #14354
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    i tried something different with K15 today, i had an issue with my mower carb, so the usual suspect, rusty fuel bowl. I sand blasted it, then gave it three coats of K15, cooking for 5 minutes each, seemed to hold well, time will tell if it is solvent stable when being submerged in fuel for extended periods of time.

    I do have pictures, but they are on my phone and not the lappy for easy sharing

  15. #14355
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    It seems some of us are determined to try and find another use besides boolits for the coating.

  16. #14356
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    Quote Originally Posted by dikman View Post
    It seems some of us are determined to try and find another use besides boolits for the coating.
    Gotta give Joe more markets to sell his goods to

  17. #14357
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jatz357 View Post
    Can't give much advice re "pizza warmer" If it is a halogen infrared it may not be suitable although, I have not completed any testing with halogen infrared. My thought is it will be too intense and possibly heat the outer surface facing the infrared source too fast compared to the underside and give uneven cured and colour results.

    Also I haven't tested anything as large as 12guage. Pretty sure infrared would work but would need to tweak temps and bake times.

    You may have to do your own research and see what happens.
    So if we're not wanting infrared that is generated by a halogen bulb, what is the preferred method to generate infrared radiation? I would have thought an infrared wave was an infrared wave no matter how it was made. Obviously, I'm wrong.
    [

  18. #14358
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbitNutz View Post
    So if we're not wanting infrared that is generated by a halogen bulb, what is the preferred method to generate infrared radiation? I would have thought an infrared wave was an infrared wave no matter how it was made. Obviously, I'm wrong.
    The only real way to know for sure is to give it a try. Jatz has done extensive testing on his system so he knows that one works, and works very well. I'd suspect that Halogen IR bulbs would work too, but i wonder if the output is more concentrated in a circle vs spread out to cover a larger area to help prevent hot spots.

  19. #14359
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    Is the TruBlu from last year gone? The image on the HPBC website looks a lot different than the stuff I was messing with February of 2020.

  20. #14360
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Halogen lights use the halogen to reform the tungsten filament and extend life. They are not an arc type light. They are more 'blue' for headlights as they run much hotter. Hotter temp, more 'blue' spectrum.
    A rod type 'bulb' with a reflector would probably work, actual 'bulb' style would give hot spots.
    Whatever!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check