Question about type of crimp required

[joec]

I'm starting to load some bullets similar to these by Freedom Arms 300 gr for my 454 Casull revolver. I've never reloaded a bullet like this and was wondering what is the best crimp to apply on it. I have 3 different crimp dies for 454 the Lee seat/crimp die, a Lee collet (rifle like type) FCD and the Redding Profile crimp die. Thanks for any input.

[DougGuy]

I really like the uncataloged Lee FC collet type die the best. For J word boolits, they wouldn't really need to be modified but for cast where it is critical that the driving band of the boolit remain as sized by the sizing die, I modify mine for a narrower crimp band and I also shorten it so it brings the crimp band down on the case. Let me see if I can get some photos to post.

Stock unmodified collet from the FC die:



Stock unmodified collet showing placement of the crimp band on a .45 Colt brass:



Modified collet showing the narrower crimp band by shortening the top of the collet:





Modified collet showing crimp band lowered onto the case mouth by shortening bottom of collet:



Beartooth 340gr and 325gr GC boolits after using the modified crimp:



Lee 452-300 GC mold 320gr boolits after using the modified crimp:



300gr Speer "Deep Curl" on left, Buffalo Bore "Deer Grenade" on right, notice how the crimp band swages into the cast boolit a little smoother than the more sharper band on the Speer boolit that is crimped into the cannelure. The Deep Curl on the left was done with the modified crimp die.

(EDIT: The Buffalo Bore "Deer Grenade" on the right is a factory loaded round from Buffalo Bore, as you can see they use the same collet crimp but I think theirs is likely unmodified):



Last pic, Hornady 300gr XTP-MAG on left, Speer "Deep Curl" on right, after using the modified crimp die:



Sorry for writing an essay but I saw that using the collet style die as manufactured by Lee was great for J word boolits, but needed a little adjusting to work at it's best on cast. So far the results have been very consistent, I am sure this crimp shortens the life of the brass but it out performs a roll crimp by a long shot. In a heavy recoiling gun like the .454, this crimp wins hands down. I shoot the boolits shown with heavy loads of H110 in my old Vaquero and I cannot see any movement at all of the loaded boolits in adjacent chambers. In addition to this crimp, it is very important to have good case neck tension. Of all the crimp styles to choose from, this is the only style of crimp that only squeezes from the sides of the case mouth and does not press down or in on the seated boolit. I hope this information is of some use, it is working like a champ for me!

[farmallcrew]

Out of the 3 your mentioned. I would use the Redding. I also have the Lee crimp die, (not collet) but don't like it. I prefer the rolled affect on the brass. Makes it a little easier to expand when you reload it.

[joec]

Thanks a lot both of you and Doug I was leaning to that or the Redding which also gives a similar crimp. These are shooting from a Ragging Bull 454 Casull and I do have dedicated dies for 454 but just wasn't sure the best crimp for that type of crimp groove. Lead nor normal FMJ are no problem since I've done them. I know they clam the 454 needs a heavier crimp that other rounds due to the pressures.

[fatelvis]

Thanks for the tip Dougguy. Can I ask from which side of the collet do you remove material to lessen the contact with the driving band? I can't seem to distinguish where you machined material from in the pics. What tool did you use to remove the material? Thanks!!

[Tall]

The Lee collet Crimp die is the fshizzle. Works great.

[jetinteriorguy]

I use the Lee collet die on all my magnums, holds under heavy recoil like it should and is easier on the brass. It’s also more tolerant of variances in case length.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I would use the Lee Factory Crimp Die on that bullet. Just make sure that the top of the brass case is just slightly (.005) below the top of the Cannelure on the bullet. That way the "entire crimp" is in the Cannelure, and the top edge of the case is under the step so the bullet won't get pushed back in the case. . Pretty much like the left round in the second to the last Pic.

BTW: did you know that you can store all your pictures on your computer in the Pictures Section for Free?. I have literally thousands of pics on mine and none of them have Photobucket Tattooed across them, and I didn't pay one cent to store them there . Photobucket is a Joke!

Randy

[Tatume]

You have received good advice from everyone so far. What I would do (and have many times) is load 20 with each and shoot three 20-shot groups at the longest distance at which you can shoot with confidence. Pick the best one. You may be surprised.

[TNsailorman]

I use the Redding Profile crimp dies on my pistol calibers. I tried the Lee FCD and did not really like it and sold it. Probably more me than the Lee die. Your mileage may vary, james

[stubshaft]

For the last 39 years I've been using my original RCBS seat/crimp die to load for my FA83. Over 10,00 rounds through it and NEVER had a bullet creep on me.

[Land Owner]

^^^ That's what I like...using the dies in hand in the manner in which they were intended... ^^^

Cases of similar (not exact) length, loaded in one pass, crimp (roll or taper) in another pass. Check case length and cull into "similar length" lots before loading. It only takes a second per case, unless you are loading thousands of cases at one time - as some of you do.

EX: SAAMI Trim to length: 1.900" (say)

Segregate cases (ymmv)
1.924" to 1.915"
Adjust the die a tiny bit.
1.914" - 1.905"
Adjust the die a tiny bit.
1.904" - 1.895"

Ordinarily, handgun velocities don't lengthen straight walled cases "much". Rifle caliber cases have to be checked "periodically" and shortened or culled as appropriate.