The one thing I wish went smoother would be to have the bullets fall from the mold easier. Is there any kind of a release agent anyone is using to help with this?
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The one thing I wish went smoother would be to have the bullets fall from the mold easier. Is there any kind of a release agent anyone is using to help with this?
What molds are you using?
FWIW, and not really answering your question,
I don't use anything in my molds, either aluminum or iron/steel as a "release agent". When I have a sticky mold, I first check temperatures. Some may prefer hotter/cooler melt or higher mold temps. I also look for burrs anywhere in the cavities. quite often though I'll lap the cavities with Comet and oil, and sometimes I'll have to use valve grinding compound to polish the cavities.
There are sprays available from Midway, Natchez, Midsouth, etc. for "easier" bullet drop out. When I first started casting I used spray graphite (but I didn't like the finish on the bullet, and graphite would only last a few pours). I tried a #2 Ticondaroga pencil, scribbling/coating the mold, but that too was a lot of work for nada.
My Anchor is holding fast!
Yes, but it's not an optimal solution. There's a spray mold coating sold by Midway and others that deposits a layer of carbon, but it can make the boolits undersized. If you are having to bang them free then you probably need to 'leement' your mold. Read this: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ost-Revisited)Originally Posted by tengaugetx
NRA Endowment Member
Armed people don't march into gas chambers.
Just for the heck of it, I ordered some spray release from midway along with some other stuff, but I'm afraid to try it.
Guns should only be allowed in places where people don't want to be shot.
I'm have been using six cavity Lee molds in .356 125gr RN, .358 140gr SWC and I have an unused .452 200gr SWC. Most of them come out well it just seems like I waste alot of time trying to get them to fall sometimes.
It seems as though they come out easier if I use the sprue plate to knock open the mold open rather than just pulling the handles apart.
I'm not quite following your procedure there.
Do a search for Leementing. Maybe there is a burr at the edge of the cavity. Leementing covers all of the common problems.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. -- H.L. Mencken
The notion that a radical is one who hates his country is naïve and usually idiotic. He is, more likely, one who likes his country more than the rest of us, and is thus more disturbed than the rest of us when he sees it debauched. He is not a bad citizen turning to crime; he is a good citizen driven to despair.― H.L. Mencken
Read the thread. I will try that.
When I open the mold by just pulling the handles apart the bullets don't fall out very well. However, if after cutting off the sprue I quickly close the sprue plate and hit the bolt that stops the sprue plate the mold opens the bullets seem to fall out of the cavities better.
If you cut the sprues and leave the plate open, then hold slight pressure with the backside of a couple the fingers of the hand holding the mold against the other handle, then hit the handle hinge bolt with a soft hammer or hardwood handle this helps the boolits fall out.
A few years ago I tried it. If what they use now is still the same stuff, it sort of looks like a spray graphite of some kind. Black and kind of runny. I never did use up what was in the can, and the only molds I tried it on were some Lee 2-cavity ones. After a few casting sessions I didn't see any value to using that stuff, unless you like a mold that's stained black in some places. If a boolit sticks in the mold after opening, I just give the mold handle a tap with the base of a piece of hardwood dowel, and the boolits drop out just fine. If there's no burrs in the mold cavities, the boolits should drop right out after sprue cutting and opening. The black stuff from Midway found its way to my local landfill or recyling point some years ago, and hasn't been missed.
Just for the heck of it, I ordered some spray release from midway along with some other stuff, but I'm afraid to try it.Ah, but there IS a use for that ap-cray! Spray it on your ingot molds! Whether they be muffin tins or whatever, the ingots drop out like magic!The black stuff from Midway found its way to my local landfill or recycling point some years ago, and hasn't been missed.
If used on a boolit mold, you absolutely must keep it out of the vent lines! If it plugs the vent lines, you'll have poorly filled-out boolits. As well as undersized boolits.
Lee says to "smoke" the molds. Same thing as the spray mold release, it'll plug up the vent lines. And if you use a candle or kitchen match, you'll deposit a layer of wax in the mold cavities.
A mold that's free of burrs on the mold parting edges of the cavities should drop boolits freely! Careful examination of the mold cavities under 20-30 powder magnification, should identify where the problem lies. Removal of those burrs will result in no boolits hanging up in the cavities.
He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.
You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.
You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."
“At the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat”--Theodore Roosevelt
a light coat of the release before lapping the mold gives you an idea of where you are working the cavity's over.
I bought some copper bristled gun cleaning brushes that are shaped somewhat like large toothbrushes. I use them to brush the !@$# out of any cavities that want to stick. Most of my moulds have shown a big improvement after this treatment as it seems to smooth the edges of burrs without doing any noticeable harm. I'm a bit more gentle with my brass moulds, but really get after the iron Lymans with no apparent ill effects.
There is some ammo and more ammo. There is never enough ammo!
Thanks for the tips.
I use a release agent but due to EPA Regs, its no longer available but it works wonderfully.
I wish people would quit telling the EPA about all the really good stuff that works as designed. When they find out how good they really are--wham!--banned. I hope they don't find us here. Where's that foil hat thingy button?
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. -- H.L. Mencken
The notion that a radical is one who hates his country is naïve and usually idiotic. He is, more likely, one who likes his country more than the rest of us, and is thus more disturbed than the rest of us when he sees it debauched. He is not a bad citizen turning to crime; he is a good citizen driven to despair.― H.L. Mencken
I never thought to try using it in ingot molds. Then again, I don't recall ever having a sticking problem in my ingot molds. I've got two--a Lee and a Lyman ingot mold and so far so good. If I still had that stuff I'd try your suggestion though. Sounds like a good idea.
YES! definitely.
Background: when I started casting I had troubles with this too. I tried parafins, smoking, and temp. Here's what works best:
Get your cavities DRY DRY DRY, and keep them CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Don't let anything TOUCH the cavity minus molten lead. If they get anything in there, cast and reject till it is out, or scrub till it is CLEAN. Pure clean aluminum or steel surface.
Only other thing that helps me is waiting. An extra 4 seconds after the sprue plate freezes over to cool does WONDERS for bullets plopping out like hailstones.
Also works great on a ladle.
45 AUTO! Because having to shoot someone twice is just silly!
There's no point in banning something that doesn't work!
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
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