Uberti 1885, 38/55

[ktw]

I shot my first 50 rounds of blackpowder loads today. I've got a lot of work to do.

I used the RS Wright book (Loading And Shooting Paper Patch Bullets) as my primary reference when putting these together. I made some mistakes.

- I lubed the paper patches with a light coat of my regular muzzleloader conical lube (a concoction containing Beeswax, Castor Oil and Murphy's Oil Soap). I probably shouldn't have. It soaked in and softened the patches slightly. Next time I plan to load them dry.

- I used a 0.10" lube cookie (White Label BPCR) between two cardboard wads that I punched out of a cardboard soda can box (.020" each). It looked like a lot of lube when loading them. It wasn't enough. I never got any sign of lube at the muzzle. Plan to try a 0.20" lube cookie next time.

- I compressed the powder charge with the .375" neck expander in my RCBS cowboy die set. This left the over-powder wad somewhat dished. Need to get a proper flat-ended compression plug.

- I neglected to open the case mouths (Lee Universal Expander) for bullet seating until after I had already loaded the lube cookie and second card wad. This left the second card wad slightly dished and caused some lube to migrate around the wad. I should have done this after powder compression and prior to loading the lube cookie.


I loaded two different powder charges and two different bullet alloys: 10 rounds of each combination, plus 10 extra for sighters and foulers. COL was 2.870" in all cases. I threw all the charges using a Lyman 55 measure then checked them on a scale. Charges were all compressed to leave 0.366" of empty neck above overpowder wad.

- Starline 2.125 brass (necks annealed), CCI 200 primers
- 44.7 or 47.7 grains GOEX FFFg (weighed out at +/- .2 gr by weight in all cases)
- 0.020" cardboard overpowder wad, 0.10" lube cookie, 0.020 card wad.
- 5bhn pure lead (.3740" patched diameter) or 8bhn range scrap (.3745" patched diameter)

This COL put the boolits out long into the rifling. I was able to thumb seat the pure lead loads into my Uberti for the first 2 rounds after wiping. The third round in a fouled barrel needed help (push with dowel). I couldn't load any of the 8bhn alloy boolits fully with thumb pressure, they all needed the dowel for full seating. The lighter charge gave me a shade over 1300fps. The 3 additional grains of FFFg boosted velocity by ~50fps.

After about 10 shots with intermittent barrel patching I resorted to wiping after every shot. I plan to try a duplex load next time to help control the fouling in front of the chamber, drop bullet weight from 270 grains to 255 grains for a shorter COL and stick with pure lead for easier loading.

My best target of the day, in all it's glory. Seven shots at 60 yards. The 7th hole was just off the top of the page. I like to think of it as a good three shot group with four additional fliers.



-ktw

[500 FAN]

Ktw,
Finally Got Out To Try The Bullets From Bullshop That You Gave To Me . They Worked Great. My Load Was 18gr. 4227 With Bullshop 264gr. Boolit Lubed With Spg. Cci Bench Rest Lr Primers.starline Long Case. I Turned The Case Primer Side Down To Get The Powder Over The Primer And Carfully Inserted Into The Chamber To Keep Powder At The Back Worked Great. 3/4" @ 100yds. My Gun Is A Uberti 38-55 Single Trigger Modified Armi-sport Long Rang Tang And Globe Front With Insert Front. Thanks To Ktw For The Bullets And To All Of You For The Loading Data.

Ktw, Do You Know What The Lead Mix Was On Those Bullets As I Would Like To Order Somemore They Worked Great!!![attach][/attach]

[ktw]

Ktw, Do You Know What The Lead Mix Was On Those Bullets As I Would Like To Order Somemore They Worked Great!!!

I ordered them in his "standard wheelweight" alloy, nothing special. I did size them to .383. You might want ask him to do that for you if you don't have a sizer.

-ktw

[500 FAN]

Ktw,
I Was Thinking Of Trying Some Cow In My Load, But I Have Read Alot Of Horror Storys, What Did You Put Between The Cow And The Powder To Keep Them Seperated, And Was There Any Pressure Sign?/

[ktw]

Ktw,
I Was Thinking Of Trying Some Cow In My Load, But I Have Read Alot Of Horror Storys, What Did You Put Between The Cow And The Powder To Keep Them Seperated, And Was There Any Pressure Sign?/

I punched out wads from a thin sheet of cork material. This comes in rolls from places like Office Max or Menards. The roll I have measured .095" thick on my calipers. I didn't buy it for this purpose - this was leftovers from another project. I suspect a regular cardboard wad would work just as well.

It did raise pressure (increased velocity, cleaner burn). That was the point of adding it. I would suggest trying it to clean up the burn characteristics of otherwise dirty loads when using the midrange powders at well below max charge weights.

I would be more cautious about simply adding a lot of COW to an already stiff load of fast burning powder.

-ktw

[Mumblypeg]

I have a Cimmeron- Uberti 1885 High Wall on the way and was thinking about getting some brass so I would have it when the rifle got here. Stareline shows two lengths, 2.082" and 2.125", which one should I get or should I wait on the rifle?

[ktw]

Mine has the longer chamber. I have been primarily using the 2.125" Starline brass in it.

I have done some shooting with shorter, blown out 30-30 brass at 2.010(-)". It has worked reasonably well with smokeless loads, but the necks are thicker than the Starline brass. Depending on the groove diameter in your rifle, this may or may not present a problem with chambering groove diameter bullets.

I have not tried the 2.080" brass by Starline or Winchester.

-ktw

[bullshot]

KTW
What did you use to size to .383?

[ktw]

I have a .382 push through sizer I ordered directly from Lee and a .383 (custom size) Lyman H&I Sizer I ordered from Buffalo Arms Company. Both companies will provide them in any size you want on request.

-ktw

[500 FAN]

I Have Used Nothing But Long Starline Brass, With Very Good Results. Also The Bullshop Bullets That I Received And Use Are Exellent.

[Mumblypeg]

Thanks for the info about the cases, but now i have another problem... The rifle came today, Bought off of gun bloker( I said it right) it was used and one of the things that made me want it was the fact that it had a mid range creedmore tang sight on it. Best I can tell worth about $200. Now the rifle is OK but some monkey at the USPS jumped up and down on it and broke the sight off. Yea I know the sender should have taken it off and wrapped it separate but he didn't and yes it was insured BUT... the only thing thats broke is the piece between the base and the bottom of the sight, the hing part I guess you could say. The USPS wants the whole package if I go for insurance, not to mention all the paper work which is a PITA! The sight it seems was made in or came from New Zeland. I've checked that web site and it shows no info on parts only whole sights. I don't want to send the gun back, I just want to fix the sight. It's a ( I know you have been waiting for this) Pedersoli. Does any one know where I might get the part I need for this brand??

[Jon K]

Lee Shaver...........here's the link

http://www.egunsmith.com/Default.htm?intro.html

Jon

[4060MAY]

https://www.vtigunparts.com/ab224000...=65&cat=Sights

parts place for most Italian stuff

[bigjim]

Sorry to hear about your broken sight from UPS. I just ordered and received a 38-55 highwall from Az. and that was my main worry about shipping damage. I'm new on this forum just found it a short time ago but talking to other members of shooting and reloading websites that seems to be a major problem with UPS breaking firearms especially gunstocks that are shipped through their company. I have read where this has been going on for some time now and you hope that UPS would find the people doing this and fire them. It's bad enough to receive a damaged package in the mail and have to turn around and go through the hassel of an insurance claim where they try to make you look like the bad guy. Keep us informed of your claim with UPS as alot of people would like to know how they will handle this.

Good shooting,
Bigjim
U.P. Deerhunter

[Brownie]

my Uberti catalog lists the Hi-Wall in these calibers, 30-30, 38-55, 40-65, 44-40, 45LC, 45-70, 45-90, 45-120, 308WIN. 30-40KRAG.

[Mumblypeg]

Bigjim,
I just saw your post from back when (may 30th ?). There is so much stuff on here to try to keep up with.
It was not UPS that broke the sight, it was the U.S. Postal Service. I've never had a problem with UPS but anyway I decieded it wasn't worth the trouble to make a claim so I just ate the loss and bought a Marbles tang sight. At some point I may see if somebody here would machine the broke part as I can't find just that part although it might not be worth the cost. But you know what? I think the Dog Will Hunt! I loaded up some 249gr pb commercial boolits on top of 18grs of IMR 4227 and they shoot pretty good. About a 2-1/2" group at 100yds. I think I can pull that in a little with some work. Heck, that's better than my 55yoa eye can see. Yea, Eye... can't see out of the other one right now but that's another story. I was just thankful that I didn't have a lemon. So now I was wondering what's the best BOOLIT before I buy a mold for this thing. 249, 265 or 335grs? I kind of want a plain base but I could do a GC if that's what really shoots. I know somebody else here had good results with the 375449 Lyman though I'm leaning toward the375248-249gr. I think I'm gonna really like this 38-55!
Bern

[Mumblypeg]

Bigjim
BTY Did you get yours? How does it shoot?

[Jon K]

So now I was wondering what's the best BOOLIT before I buy a mold for this thing. 249, 265 or 335grs? I kind of want a plain base but I could do a GC if that's what really shoots. I know somebody else here had good results with the 375449 Lyman though I'm leaning toward the375248-249gr. I think I'm gonna really like this 38-55!
Bern

The 375449 is a good choice for your Uberti. Forget the 335 grain Lyman(1.312" oal), it is too long for the 1:18 twist. I will have to disagree with the 375248, as your gun is more than likely .379 + on the groove diameter. I have had 3 different Lyman #375248, and each has been .377-.3775. If you want a 250-255 gr PB try the Saeco #738, or Lee 379-250-RF. Magma also has a boolit mould which looks like the Lee 379-250RF, but is .3805. Saeco also makes a 300 gr #571.

I can send you samples of the Saeco 738, 571, Lyman 375449, & Magma 250. PM me, if intereted.

Jon

[Mumblypeg]

PM sent Jon

[bigjim]

Hi Mumblypeg

Sorry I haven't answered your reply sooner. I don't spend much time on the computer in the summertime. My highwall is the Winchester reproduction made in Japan. I have only shot one box of factory loaded Winchester ammunition out of it to break in the barrel. I wasn't happy with the results from the factory ammo. It was a 255 grain jacketed bullets. For some reason Winchester had the Japanese make their own barrel for this receiver. All the other highwalls that Winchester has made have the badger barrels on them. I don't know why they did this because everyone I know that has the Badger barrels on their rifles say they really shoot good. I too am in the process of buying and trying different bullets before I buy a mold for this rifle. I am still gathering more reloading supplies for this caliber. All of my bullet making and reloading dyes are for the four single shot 45/70 rifles that I shoot. So I too am in a learning curve on the paticular caliber. I know alot of people have had good luck with your rifle once you figure out what the rifle likes. Most guys do good with a 380. diameter bullet of about 300 grains and cast 30 to 1 or 20 to 1. You will just have to try several different bullets until you find the right one that your rifle likes Most of them seem to shoot a longer bullet too. Hope this gives you some ideas as I don't have that much experience with this caliber. Let me know how you are doing from time to time and I will compare notes with you.

Good shooting,
Bigjim
U.P. Deerhunter