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Thread: Dipping makes better bullets that a bottom pour pot but why?

  1. #41
    Boolit Master PS Paul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven_Darkcloud View Post
    Best post of the topic. Put a big smile on my face.
    Me too!!
    A government that robs from Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Wikipedia as a reference source on something that is controversial?


    LOL!!!!

    Zero accuracy checks on Wikipedia, ANYBODY can write or "correct".

    I've done some ladle casting, and the pressure casting aspect helps
    fill out, it seems, in my limited experience. However, I do manage to
    make some pretty darned good boolits with my bottom pour pots.

    Not calling anybody wrong, but seems like 'different strokes'
    kind of discussion. Ford is better than Chevy. NO, Chevy is better
    than Ford. . . . . No answer in reality.


    Bill
    Last edited by MtGun44; 04-07-2013 at 04:33 PM.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master detox's Avatar
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    Taking advice from members here today i casted some verygood boollits using the bottom pour. Fluxing only once with pea size parafin and keeping my melt temp between 650-700 produced some verygood results with only about 5% rejects. I used linotype as my alloy. I am getting better with the bottom pour.

    I held my mould about 1/4" from spout then poured leaving a small puddle on top. I also adjusted for faster flow thru spout.

    I loosened sprue plate so that it would swing freely and just rest on top of mould. This produce boolits with square bases.

    I was fluxing way too much in past sessions resulting in too many dirt specs and cavities.

    Lower casting temps of 650-700 resulted in larger diameter boolits. Before hand i was casting around 725-775 resulting in slightly smaller diameter boolits.

    I also drain and wash my pot after every session. Water allways comes out looking dark and dirty.

    Thanks,
    Last edited by detox; 04-07-2013 at 07:42 PM.

  4. #44
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I've been reading this but have not made a comment.

    Well, time to change that.

    I've seen molds that would not cast a good bullet unless they were under a " pressure pour " situation with a ladle.

    I've also seen molds that form whiskers when subjected to this technique.

    Many molds do well with bottom pour.

    I think it is hard for a right handed person to switch over in life to being left handed.

    Likewise, if you've developed successful patterns of casting and those techniques are yielding good results, it isn't likely that someone with a different view is going to persuade you to do it differently.

    Which is better than another..... ? ? ?

  5. #45
    Boolit Master

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    I like my Lee bottom pour!!! Mine Doesn't drip (much) and it's real easy to control the sprue size.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Caster View Post
    If bottom pour is better, or at least as good, why do all the top notch BPCR shooters use ladle. Maybe you haven't enlightened them. Perhaps one of you could go shoot in a big match and show everyone how it is done.
    The most likely physical reason is that the ladle takes from the top of the stack of lead and may have more tin in it than a bottom pour pot that is isn't fluxed frequently.

  7. #47
    Boolit Master

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    Each to his own............Been casting BP for 30+ years and only do the ladle for "Old Timey" casting for round ball Black powder.
    10-x

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  8. #48
    Boolit Master detox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10-x View Post
    Each to his own............Been casting BP for 30+ years and only do the ladle for "Old Timey" casting for round ball Black powder.
    Nothing wrong with that. I just purchase the smaller Lee 5 lb pot for quick ladle casting. I am now convinced that both methods produce good boolits once you learn how.

  9. #49
    Boolit Buddy
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    ladle casting is the BEST and ONLY way to cast. why? cause my WAAGE pot doesn't have a bottom hole or a lever to operate said hole on it. so....theres your proof!
    ROF....Retired Old Fart
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  10. #50
    Boolit Buddy
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    I think that when it comes right down to it... To Each His Own! I do way more bottom pour than ladle, but they both peform well for the job intended.

    Shad
    I believe in gold, silver, & lead, and the rights of free honest men... You can keep the "CHANGE"!

    Shad

  11. #51
    Boolit Buddy
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    had a bottom pour given to me so its all ive ever used and thanks to the great people on this site a few mods to it and it does everything i could ask.
    boolit goes bang and hit near where i aim it--all good

    p.s boolit more accurate than i am im sure
    Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.
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  12. #52
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Texantothecore View Post
    The most likely physical reason is that the ladle takes from the top of the stack of lead and may have more tin in it than a bottom pour pot that is isn't fluxed frequently.
    Not possible! Tin will not - cannot separate and drift to the top of the pot from a lack of fluxing or stirring or anything else. The only loss of tin will be that which is already at the surface of the melt and in contact with oxygen which will oxidize.

    Rick
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  13. #53
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    correct answer. Once alloyed with lead it cannot seperate and the lead at the top of your pot is the same as whats at the bottom.
    Quote Originally Posted by cbrick View Post
    Not possible! Tin will not - cannot separate and drift to the top of the pot from a lack of fluxing or stirring or anything else. The only loss of tin will be that which is already at the surface of the melt and in contact with oxygen which will oxidize.

    Rick

  14. #54
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    From Wikipedia:

    Linotype Casting section

    The continuous heating of the molten alloy causes the tin and antimony in the mixture to rise to the top
    That's pure BS.

    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    Lead easily evaporates form the molten mixture and enters the respiratory tract, and both lead and antimony have a tendency to be absorbed through the skin.
    And this is even bigger BS. Lead does not evaporate at anything even close to casting temps, you can get lead vapor when over 1,100 degrees. Lead cannot be absorbed through the skin. To get lead poisoning you have to ingest it.

    So much for Wikipedia . . .

    Rick
    Last edited by cbrick; 04-09-2013 at 07:30 AM.
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  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy
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    ya mean like in the good old days when roy rogers and john wayne caused the bad guys to "ingest" some lead? hell yea!
    ROF....Retired Old Fart
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  16. #56
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbrick View Post
    And this is even bigger BS. Lead does not evaporate at anything even close to casting temps, you can get lead vapor when over 1,100 degrees. Lead cannot be absorbed through the skin. To get lead poisoning you have to ingest it.
    This isn't accurate. You can get lead vapor at any point after the lead is molten. It's typically a very small amount that grows as you approach the boiling temperature. This is why you should always work with molten metals outdoors or in well ventilated spaces. Just because it's a very small amount of lead vapor doesn't mean you can't ingest it. This is a large concern because your body gets rid of lead very very slowly.

  17. #57
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by sergeant69 View Post
    ya mean like in the good old days when roy rogers and john wayne caused the bad guys to "ingest" some lead? hell yea!
    Yep, that is one form of acute lead poisoning.

    Rick
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  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbukers View Post
    This isn't accurate. You can get lead vapor at any point after the lead is molten. It's typically a very small amount that grows as you approach the boiling temperature. This is why you should always work with molten metals outdoors or in well ventilated spaces. Just because it's a very small amount of lead vapor doesn't mean you can't ingest it. This is a large concern because your body gets rid of lead very very slowly.
    That is accurate, lead does not vapor at melting temps. Of course good ventilation should be used, lead is not the only thing in your melt. Your odds of getting any lead poisoning at melting temps is quite remote. If you have elevated levels of lead in your system you ingested it one way or another. I highly recommend washing your hands after handling lead and no thumb sucking until you do.

    Rick
    "The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

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  19. #59
    Boolit Master
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    I think we need a different forum for people that cast for handguns and those that cast for rifles.
    The two groups often cast with different techniques, alloys and have different criteria for a good bullet.

    BPCR shooters want MOA results to 400 yards or more.
    Pistol shooters often do not even have a way to measure the accuracy of their bullets.
    A bullet produced for plinking at 30 feet does not necessarily meet the demands of long range rifle shooters.
    Yet the two groups argue about technique - when the two groups have completely different requirements.
    EDG

  20. #60
    Boolit Bub
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    I ladle pour. Because I'm to cheap to buy a bottom pot.
    Now for all you folks wanting to know about Linotype machine. I was
    a Linotype operator in the 50's and 60's. Linotypes casts under pressure. They had
    a piston, which I removed daily, cleaned and fluxed the pot.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check