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Thread: $4.27 Ladle

  1. 03-27-2013, 11:08 AM #41
    Shiloh
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    Looks good. Show the results.

    Shiloh
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  2. 03-27-2013, 12:01 PM #42
    psychicrhino
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    Very nice pics. May have to make one now too.
    "Failure to prepare is preparing to fail" - Benjamin Franklin
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  3. 03-27-2013, 12:15 PM #43
    TheGrimReaper
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    Hey, at least it looks good and useful.
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  4. 03-28-2013, 12:59 PM #44
    Raven_Darkcloud
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    If the rivets fail use allen screws with button head and nuts with high temp perm locktite. The other way to go is washers and round stock. Put the round stock in a vice so that with the washer on it you have 1.5 to 2 times the thickness of the round stock above the washer. Peen it to the washer then stick it in as rivet put another washer on and peen it. I have used this method many times to make copper rivets for leather work. works in steel too. Get the copper washers in plumbing department.
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  5. 05-02-2013, 12:46 PM #45
    Relsom
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    I wouldn't worry about the rivet pins. If you are concerned go ahead and push them out and peen the rivet. Of course then you would have two leaker holes. Better to peen or squish the rivet around the pin so it can't come out. Then you, and the others on this thread (myself included) will be able to sleep well at night.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check