The higher the voltage and amperage, the less time. Those dies sat in the soup for about 20 hours at 6v / 1 amp on that motorcycle trickle charger. I never much worried about the time since I have to sleep and work anyway...
You can use the battery, but the amperage is going to be pretty high with no way to control it except making the solution weak and / or increasing the distance between the anode and the part. Too much current might overheat and burn thin wire like the baling wire I use in my set. ROMEX such as Shakey Jakey uses will take more current.
Read the link from my first post and make sure you hook the wires up correctly.
I use a 12v 6amp battery charger, works perfect.
mix 1 cup of baking soda with a gallon of water......hook up jumper cables to a small 12v battery......connect the negative wire to a piece of junk copper and put in the bottom of container with water and baking soda......connect metal to be cleaned to positive wire.....dip for a few seconds at a time and keep inspecting until rust and corrosion is removed....hope this helps.....
michael
Last edited by scheppy; 03-23-2013 at 04:27 PM.
STOP! That is backwards.......the negative lead should always go to the part to be derusted. Think "Negative...take away rust" and you'll keep it straight. Also, you should use iron or steel scrap in the bucket, no copper, no stainless, just ferrous iron or steel. An old steel oil can flattened out and hooked to positive will work fine. As the rust is removed from your part, the sacrificial anode (the steel oil can) will be eaten away. If you reverse the leads, your PART gets eaten away.
Although Arm and Hammer baking soda will work, their washing soda is much more effective.
The biggest and best thing about electrolysis is to enjoy it. Hook up the parts, plug in the charger and walk away. Once the oxide (rust) is removed the action will stop, so it's self limiting.
this is 12 hour's per side in SS media with lemmishine and dawn used exactly as when doing brass.
Obviously one side is done on these pic's.
Do you see any sign of damage from the media? UPS has my tumbler in transit it shows to be in Salt Lake City. I ordered mine at STM I bout the 15LB model and I have a lot of old what knots to try it on glade to see this post and you had success on that mold.
Once you bite the boolit and set up an electrolysis system PROPERLY, you will forsake all other methods. But what do those who actually do it know?
I have been very impressed using evapo-rust http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html but the next rusted item I clean will be with an electrolysis system set up PROPERLY. Hopefully I can find something like a mold so I can do one side with electrolysis and the other with evapo-rust.
Just grab a rusty bolt or any rusty piece of steel out of the garage. Once you set it up you are hooked up for life, no sales pitch needed.
bit a "tooth brush scrubbin" and pour 'em up son...U dun gud....
This is exactly the process I use to clean barrel of my milsurp rifles i buy. Slick and clean each time.
Nose Dive
Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.
Last edited by Nose Dive; 03-25-2013 at 10:02 PM.
What is washing soda? Ive never heard of it before.
Nevermind, I just googled it. Good ol sodium carbonate. Looks like it isnt sold here in nevada though. But that gives me an excuse to do a little kitchen chemistry and convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate.
If you have an old bore brush, chuck it up in a drill and try that on that little bit of rust remaining in the cavity. May need a little mild abrasive of some kind. Might even try a dry rag on a dowel or something similar with a little penitrating oil first.
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I get washing soda at the grocery store and I would bet chinamart will have it in the cleaning section.
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