Starter Progressive Press??

[Love Life]

in this case you will be shelling out several hundred dollars more for a press that isn't even a true auto progressive press... not much tinkering at all to get the LnL setup to run flawlessly, some are willing and then the rest shell out the extra bucks for the Di$$on

You don't say.

Not much tinkering at all huh? I prefer no tinkering. Assemble, set dies, and reload until my arm is tired. That is worth the money to me, and my Dillon is now worth double on the free market than I paid for it.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Not all presses require tinkering out of the box, but some do, including the Dillons. Some presses don't work and never will work out of the box. My 550 never worked right and was eventually replaced. Some presses rarely need replacement parts, like my Hornady LnL. It needed adjustment when it was setup after being moved and that was about it. It stayed clean enough I rarely cleaned it, but I grew bored with it after a decade and replaced it with an RCBS Pro 2000. It was problematic out of the box, but I later figured out the wholesale distributor I got it from had it in their warehouse a long time and it was from a batch with a defectively machined subplate (just my luck). RCBS replaced the subplate, I got it adjust and it's been boringly reliable ever since with zero primer feed issues once everything was back together and adjusted from replacing the subplate. Most presses, regardless of manufacturer, do have an issue at some point. For Dillon, I often see owners saying "This or that part broke and Dillon sent it to me for free." The part often ignored is lots of Dillon parts break, causing down time for their presses.

What's the bottom line on all the paragraph I just posted? EVERY single brand of progressive press has issues. Let me repeat that: EVERY SINGLE BRAND HAS PROBLEMS AT SOME POINT. They are machines, designed to mass produce (albeit at a low volume compared to industrial machinery) reloaded ammunition. Machines break, they need to be adjusted, they need to be maintained, they sometimes come with defective parts, etc.

Probably the best advice I ever got from an older reloader when I was shopping progressive presses was: "Look at all the brands, compare the features, try to use each brand you're interested to get a feel for how it works. Select the features that appeal to you. Stay within your budget or save until you can get the press you want. Once you've done that, take the time to learn the press you've bought, set it up correctly, learn to maintain it, learn it's quirks and how it is best operated. Then you will get all you can get out of both the press and your experience."

So buy the one that appeals to you after you've read through and understand what the press's positive and weak points are. Google is your friend. Do not be swayed by any color kool aid.

Having said that, I now own reloading equipment from most all manufacturers out there. I now buy what's the best tool I can find for the specific application (cartridge load) I am looking to set up for to get the best results. It's working really well for me and my cartridges are much better now than when I first started reloading.

[LUBEDUDE]

Amen Dave

Couldn't have said it any better. And my blood runs Blue!

[-Mischief]

Ended up getting the LnL. If it doesn't work out then I'll get a 650 but for now..it's red.

I have it set up but I have a couple of small "quarks".

#1 - The shell plate does NOT completely cycle. I read about the left and right screws that can be adjusted but I wanted to get opinions before I go "tinkering" (there's that word again) with it. When indexing with a full stroke, the detents will reach the next wholes...but not everytime. I would say that all is good about 50% of the time. Anyway...what is the best way to properly adjust this?

#2 - I have only tried loading 9mm Luger so far. The problem I'm having here is the first station, depriming. I have the base of the die as low as I can go and the deprimer pin as far in as I can get it into the die...it still doesn't deprime.

Any suggestions?

[Matt_G]

Call Hornady.
I'm sure they can get you up and running.

[-Mischief]

Tried...was on hold for a total of about an hour over 3 different attempts.

[r1kk1]

FWIW,

I bought my 550 a long time ago. Read the manual after bolting to the bench, adjusted the dies and loaded 1000 rounds of 45 acp. Switched toolheads and loaded 100 30-06s after die adjustments, etc., etc., etc.

Really nothing to it. Simple and reliable.

Take care

r1kk1

[1bluehorse]

Ended up getting the LnL. If it doesn't work out then I'll get a 650 but for now..it's red.

I have it set up but I have a couple of small "quarks".

#1 - The shell plate does NOT completely cycle. I read about the left and right screws that can be adjusted but I wanted to get opinions before I go "tinkering" (there's that word again) with it. When indexing with a full stroke, the detents will reach the next wholes...but not everytime. I would say that all is good about 50% of the time. Anyway...what is the best way to properly adjust this?

#2 - I have only tried loading 9mm Luger so far. The problem I'm having here is the first station, depriming. I have the base of the die as low as I can go and the deprimer pin as far in as I can get it into the die...it still doesn't deprime.

Any suggestions?

Can't help on setting the pawls for indexing, don't have a LNL press...however on the depriming die, if I am reading your post correctly, the depriming pin should protrude about 1/8 inch below the bottom of the die. Be careful here, not to low....The die should be set to touch the shellplate when the shellplate is at the top of it's travel...

[armedmoose]

Sounds like your Pawls need adjustment: Follow the manual closely to adjust properly. (Small increments, correct pawl for upstroke or downstoke, etc.)



Snap a Picture of your Decapping die in place with the shellplate all the way up. Die setup on an LNL-AP, you can follow the die setup directions, there isn't any special instructions to get dies to work on an LNL-AP.

On Hornady, remember they are on Central (nebraska) time and get their early in the morning, I always get a CS response within 10 mins in the mornings.

Good LUCK!

[johnh57]

I'm new with the LNL myself - If you mess with the pawls be cautious. One thing I noticed while adjusting the left hand pawl on mine is that it is easy to raise the pawl too far. The top surface of the pawls is ground at an angle, or bevel. If you raise the pawl far enough so that the unground diameter of the pawl engages the gear you could do a lot of damage in a hurry.

[timtonya]

I'm so happy I sold my loadmaster boat anchor and bought a 550. I got so sick and tired of tinkering. I spent more time tinkering than loading. Yes dillon cost more but its worth it. Go thru Brian enos. Great guy and he answers emails in a timely fashion.

[ColColt]

After reading all this, I'm glad I still have and use my RCBS Jr press. No tweaking and no parts to break in over 30 years...slow but precise.

[DLCTEX]

For 1500 rounds a year I would go with Lee Classic Cast turret. Not a progressive but a solid press that can handle it all economically.

[rtp]

Ended up getting the LnL. If it doesn't work out then I'll get a 650 but for now..it's red.

I have it set up but I have a couple of small "quarks".

#1 - The shell plate does NOT completely cycle. I read about the left and right screws that can be adjusted but I wanted to get opinions before I go "tinkering" (there's that word again) with it. When indexing with a full stroke, the detents will reach the next wholes...but not everytime. I would say that all is good about 50% of the time. Anyway...what is the best way to properly adjust this?

#2 - I have only tried loading 9mm Luger so far. The problem I'm having here is the first station, depriming. I have the base of the die as low as I can go and the deprimer pin as far in as I can get it into the die...it still doesn't deprime.

Any suggestions?

The best explanation I've seen for the LnL timing is here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost....9&postcount=36
Go in SMALL increments, one pawl at a time! Once it's set, it's unlikely you'll need to touch it again for thousands of rounds or more.

A few other random tips that will help get your LnL (and you/your ammo) singing:
a. Remove the primer slide. Use a stone or sandpaper and block, or even metal polish it, but debur/smooth it up, in particular around the edge that slides into the shellplate.
b. Putting a small bevel (leave the topside alone, remove a small amount of material towards the underside) to create a tiny debris 'channel' at the leading edge of the primer slide will save you from future annoyance as inevitably powder flakes may get in there. This sounds harder than it is, doesn't take more than a few minutes.
c. Adjust the primer 'cam bar' - sorry, don't know it's official name offhand, but this is the bar the primer slider roller rides against. Remove primers, primer tube, 'blast tube,' leave plate screwed to press. Loosen slightly the allen key on black plastic piece at top of primer cam bar. Lower press handle so it puts the primer shuttle in the rearmost position, and look down into hole. You want the primer pickup hole in the shuttle to be dead center, or better, just slightly rearward of dead center. Adjust the bar position until it's so, tighten allen key, put together and forget about it.
d. De-grease the powder measure...more than once. They pack this thing with the equivalent of cosmoline, and it drove me nuts when I first bought it with 'inconsistent powder drops.' Spray it down with a de-greaser or One Shot, soak it in Dawn + water, repeat. Let dry, spray lightly with One Shot or other dry lube. Assemble with rifle powder (large) rotor, and cycle a # or two of powder through it manually, from hopper back to container, repeat. Wrap an dryer sheet and rubber band around the outside of the hopper tube, and rub down the inside with one. Drop in the baffle with the 'top of the tent' in alignment with the metering insert. Your measure will now reliably drop +/- .1gr or better.
e. Pick up a split washer/lock washer, put under the shellplate allen bolt - saves the shellplate from ever loosening up if you haven't snugged it quite tight enough.
f. I know there's an f. and maybe g. but I can't think of they at the moment, adjusting the timing properly and the above should have you going nicely.

Good luck - it's a great press!

[fredj338]

The problem is you are not pricing them equip the same. If you want a case feeder, the 650 comes with all the parts but the bowl, the LNL does not. So when you add a case feeder, the diff in price is less than $75. BTW, NO one has LNL AP for $323, no one. CLoser to $400. Other things included in the 650 not on the LNL, a conversion kit for the caliber you want, so add another $50. The "free" bullets are not any bullet, so little value to me. Add it up, sim equip, the 650 is less than $75 more. For that you get a far better case feeder & priming system.
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...productId/5988

Cost:
LNL AP $440 + 500 free bullets, depending on bullet selected, a $117 to $160 value at the pre-panic prices.
LNL AP Total $280-$323 Sounds like a bargain and an even better one if you sell your free bullets online or at a show.

XL650 $566

FWIW, anyone that calls the manual indexing 550 anything but a progressive, just doesn't understand the process. It is a full progressive, yo ujust manually index it & as noted before, there is no speed advantage to auto indexing, none.

[fredj338]

For 1500 rounds a year I would go with Lee Classic Cast turret. Not a progressive but a solid press that can handle it all economically.

For that small of an amount of ammo, a ss press is fine, unless you need 1500rds in a few hours. Seriously, most of us do NOT need a progressive of any kind. If you are only loading 100rds a month, that is maybe two hrs on a ss press, why bother with the expense & complexity of any progressive?

[Daddyfixit]

For that small of an amount of ammo, a ss press is fine, unless you need 1500rds in a few hours. Seriously, most of us do NOT need a progressive of any kind. If you are only loading 100rds a month, that is maybe two hrs on a ss press, why bother with the expense & complexity of any progressive?

So I can spend the other hour and 55 minutes surfing the forms!!

[Alvarez Kelly]

For that small of an amount of ammo, a ss press is fine, unless you need 1500rds in a few hours. Seriously, most of us do NOT need a progressive of any kind. If you are only loading 100rds a month, that is maybe two hrs on a ss press, why bother with the expense & complexity of any progressive?

Because it's easier on my tired old bones to pull the handle and out comes a completed round. Single Stage presses have there place, but I will ALWAYS have my Dillon 550s for cranking out ammo...

[-Mischief]

Sounds like your Pawls need adjustment: Follow the manual closely to adjust properly. (Small increments, correct pawl for upstroke or downstoke, etc.)



Snap a Picture of your Decapping die in place with the shellplate all the way up. Die setup on an LNL-AP, you can follow the die setup directions, there isn't any special instructions to get dies to work on an LNL-AP.

On Hornady, remember they are on Central (nebraska) time and get their early in the morning, I always get a CS response within 10 mins in the mornings.

Good LUCK!

Does loosening the allen screws on the Pawls actually adjust something or is it just loosening them so they can be adjusted? Does that make sense? Do they need to be tightened back up after adjusting the pawls?

[fredj338]

Because it's easier on my tired old bones to pull the handle and out comes a completed round. Single Stage presses have there place, but I will ALWAYS have my Dillon 550s for cranking out ammo...

You get no argument from me, I love my 550, but 1500rds a year, no one "needs" a progressive for such a small amount of ammo. I load on a 550, 650 & still do a lot on my ss press. Most of my hunting calibers & some target stuff are done on the ss press. I rarely shoot more than 100rds of those calibers. The 223 & 308 get done on the 550 because I can shoot 100rds at a pop on range days.