Pic em apart

[jeepyj]

Attachment 62237Hello all, The following are pictures that I wouldn't mind having some of experienced casters see what I should be doing different. The mold is Lyman 356242 double 9mm 120 gr. The mix is approximately 95% COWW and 5% Babbitt. They seem to shoot very nice so far decent clusters off hand. It still a little cold up here so I haven't shot from a bench.
Jeepyj

[egg250]

I'm far from an expert. If they shoot well enough for you, be happy with it. I did notice a few wrinkled boolits as well as some that aren't quite filled out either. Ensure your mold is hot enough throughout your casting session. Also, prior to sizing/lubing, conduct a more thorough quality control check for rejects.

[jeepyj]

Thank you egg250 I would agree and I've gone back through them and picked the snappers. In last couple days I obtained a new lube heater that seems far less messy
Thanks again

[Ickisrulz]

There are some that could have filled out a little better. Higher heat, warmer mold or more tin added to your mix (1%) will solve this. If they shoot good and don't lead, you have the main objective met. Keep casting so you learn your equipment and the process and they will get much better.

[jeepyj]

Thank you Ickisrulz
I thought i maybe casting too hot the thermometer is around 760. It seems when my mold is too hot the little silver jems want to stick more. Does 750-760 seem about right? I just purchased the thermometer and was a little surprised of the temperature was as high it was 780+/- so i cut it back. thoughts?

[Ickisrulz]

Thank you Ickisrulz
I thought i maybe casting too hot the thermometer is around 760. It seems when my mold is too hot the little silver jems want to stick more. Does 750-760 seem about right? I just purchased the thermometer and was a little surprised of the temperature was as high it was 780+/- so i cut it back. thoughts?

Every mold is a little different. Some of mine drop better when the heat is high and the mold is hot. 750 is a good starting point to adjust from.

[David2011]

Jeepyj,

Welcome to Castboolits.

Your melt temperature doesn't represent your mold temperature. The pace at which you cast controls the mold temp. With 5% babbit you should have plenty of tin which is responsible for good flow and fillout. Babbit will be anywhere fom 67% to 92% tin. Be sure your mold is really clean. Clean it with a used toothbrush and Dawn dishwashing detergent. Dawn is really good at cutting residual oils. Cast at least 3 pours per minute until the boolits are filled out well and keep up the pace until they get a little frosty. When you notice that the sprue is taking longer to freeze, slow down the pace just a little. You should be getting well formed boolits. Adjust the pace as required to maintain well filled shiny to slightly frosty boolits. Keep it up!

David

[jeepyj]

Thanks all, I'll try again tomorrow evening. I'm sure once I find a the right combination it will go smooth. I know that it takes practice. I was concerned about the Babbitt / Heat ratios and So far there have been no real red flags. My opinion is its always good to have a second set of eyes looking. I've shot with them off a rest and the accuracy seem quite desirable. The addition of the new lube and heater makes it even more exciting!

[mkf350]

They look perfect at a 1000fps!

[RP]

for just getting started they look great even better they are shooting good for you. As you practice and prefect your technique the rest will come into line. It is nice to see your post and the comments were all what I feel they should be not beating you down but lifting you. I have spoken to a fellow which as me a ? something he has noticed. Told me when he cast just before a thunder storm when the barometric pressure is low for some reason his bollits come out a lot better. That being said keep in mind some of the smallest changes effect casting sometimes so don't change to many things at on time so you learn what improves and what don't. Just my thoughts cast on.

[DrNick]

I used to reject any boolet that did not look visually perfect....I've changed that approach somewhat. I overlook minor visual defects in the nose now, my criteria for load and shoot is a well formed base and bands. I decided to test a few wrinkled boolits and noticed that the bsae asn bands (not surprisingly) are the biggest factors in accuracy. Let's face it....for MOST people with MOST pistols or revolvers even +/- 10 grains doesn't matter much at the moderate ranges involved. Rifles are a different story and I'm still very persnickety when it comes to the cull for those with my rule of thumb being the smaller the boolit, the more perfect it has to be to make the grade.

[Smoke4320]

its all about getting them downrange accurately and safely..
If they shoot good and no leading .. go for it ..
as said by others here cull for wrinkled/not sharp bands and bases.. Small wrinkles on noses of PISTOL boolits don't seem to matter much in my LIMITED experience

[Griz44mag]

Only major issue I see with your castings is that they are not residing in a brass case with some powder and primer added.
A decent lube-sizer and some great White Label Lubes can sure make a home caster-loader smile!
Congrats on a hobby that will save you some money, make you a better shooter and give you something to be justifiably proud of.