Is There A Lead Doctor In The House :confused:

[220swiftfn]

Thanks for all the input, fellas! I did generate another question while reading your post. I have a cast aluminum pot (50's or 60's vintage).

Is that cast aluminum pot a no-no?

YES, that aluminum pot is a no-no!!!! As stated, the slump phase is too close to the temperature(s) reached not only by the molten lead, but the heat source under the pot. (As an example, I use a cast iron propane range, and the fingers that the pot rests on glow orange every now and then.....) Add to that the pressure from 100-200 pounds of lead, and if it lets go, it'll happen QUICK.......Bad things, indeed.....


Dan

[Bill*]

as long as you dont get the total temperature of the alloy and pot over 1200 F you should be ok to use cast aluminum... propane burns at 1900 so there is a possibility to melt the aluminum pot... cast iron requires over 3500 F to melt, safer if you plan to leave your burner on for hours without regulating the temperature of your lead

Not good advice .....Aluminum softens long before it melts

[bumpo628]

Ditch the aluminum pot. Last thing you want is a pot full of lead goin somewhere at groin level.

Check thrift stores for steel or cast iron pots and potential ingot molds. Hit several of them regularly until you find what you need.

[a.squibload]

Cast aluminum muffin pans work fine, will never get hotter than the lead, and
dissipate heat quickly.
Aluminum melting pot? Not in my garage. Danger Will Robinson!
Steel muffin tins a little rusty will release better but will tend to get tinned over time
and start to stick. Someone here tried aluminum spray paint on his, said it worked.
I made angle-iron ingot molds too, like them best.
Also made a propane tank melting pot (steel), can hold a lot of lead.
Look up Dcrockett (sp?) in swappin & sellin forum, think he still makes pots for sale,
reasonable price.

[350Gr]

OK, the Cast Aluminum pot is out and I'll find a suitable replacement. I did read several threads on Aluminum Pots after asking the question. I don't need nor want any type of disaster in this new found addiction.

Next question, have I ruined that Cast Aluminum pot from ever being used with food prep or can it be cleaned to insure no lead contamination

[I'll Make Mine]

Next question, have I ruined that Cast Aluminum pot from ever being used with food prep or can it be cleaned to insure no lead contamination

General rule, no food, ever, after use for lead. Chemically, it might be possible to clean it up -- but why take the chance? Aluminum pots are cheap; just cut it into two or three pieces with a hacksaw or recip and drop it into the recycling, or keep it in the garage to store wheel weights, boolits, or what have you (but if you do the last, best engrave or stamp it deeply in several places "Lead Only -- No Food!").

[Jeffrey]

A stainless steel 2 quart is what I use on a Coleman stove for smelting / casting. Wish I had a 1 quart. Too much heat loss on the 2 quart and the propane stove won't put out enough heat to give good temp on that much alloy. Maybe $10.00 for the pot at Target.

[350Gr]

Thanks Everyone for your input. I will save the pot only for sentimental reasons, many a dish was cooked in it by mom! I will mark it for lead use only and move on to a steel or cast iron or stainless which ever I run across.
With all the rush on right now over every imaginable form of ammo component or maker I'm not in a terrible rush to do anything. Haste makes waste as in my ole'pot.

[Errokk]

Cast iron and un coated steel are your best ingot casting friends.

[sthwestvictoria]

looks fine to me. I get some pock marking on the underside of my muffin pan ingot, there is no detriment to the ingot. The scratching with a thumb nail test is encouraging - dead soft pure lead. Good for muzzle loading or mixing with lots of tin or 50:50 with wheel weights.

Any day smelting free lead is a good day.

[40Super]

Preheating the mold pans will stop the dimples and help with releasing once cool. I have mini muffin pans that were Teflon coated. I just preheat on hotplate and all is well again.

[Crazy_T]

For some inexpencive molds I found some heavy comericial aluminum muffin tins at Wally world for about $10 cleaned them and smoked them they work great
Crazy T

[fishnhunt]

350gr,
I have found that ingots won't stick to aluminum muffin tins - unless they have dents that restrict them from falling out. What you may have trouble with is the "tin" muffin tins. They look a lot like aluminum - but the lead adheres to the tin and about the only way to get them out is to drop the whole durn thing in the pot, let the ingots melt back into the pot, take the muffin tin out of the pot, and throw the muffin tin in the scrapman box. Teflon muffin tins do release well - but I have no problems with the straight aluminum tins. Use the 6 count tins as the 12 count get too heavy and bend out of shape when trying to eject'em. I get mine at Goodwill or other thrift stores and never pay more than $1 apiece for them.

[fishnhunt]

Crazy,
Went to the Dollar Store the other day and found some "Mini" loaf pans. Rectangular bread loaf pans - but smaller. They worked GREAT - and are aluminum too - not tin, and release like they're greased. Went back and bought a dozen more at 2 for a dollar!

[350Gr]

I'm working at it... Thanks for all the advice guys! Hey fishnhunt I got family in 'dem dar' woods, it sure has changed since my trips up there to grand ma's near the RR yard back in the 60's.

[Dragoon454]

Get some Frankford Arsenal release agent from Midway and spray your muffin tins. It works great for ingots.I don't use it on my moulds as it will build up and run if you dont clean them after every casting session though. IMO it's worth it. I do not have any vested interest in Midway but it works for me and is easy and cheap when you figure the number of muffins you can make from a can.