shaking the mold does not help and in fact could hurt.
i would get the mold temp a bit higher.
about the best way to do that is to cast faster for a couple of throws,let the boolits get to a more grey state.
then maintain that color through speed.
Purdy picture!
Don't shake it. Fill out is a combination of proper alloy, alloy temp, proper mold temp, and cavity condition/conditioning.
Are you using ww? or some other scrap lead source? or a commercial blend?
Did you completely de-grease your mold cavity and clean with a good solvent?
Have you smoked the cavities with a butane lighter or match a little after cleaning them?
Finally there is pour speed, and even if all of the other planets align some just don't come out perfect anyway...
What runfiverun said.
Getting your alloy temp, and mould temp up to par, will help in casting more than you know. Be sure your mould is clean, no oils or waxes in the boolit area of the mould, preheating your mould is a plus, I bought an el cheapo single burner hot plate, to help heat up my mould. Also, keep an eye on your alloy temp. Definately need a thermometer.
Practice, Practice, Practice. Learn each one of your moulds. Each one of mine has a little different casting characteristic.
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Yes degreased and smoked very well!! The bullets all dropped free and easy every time! It was very smooth altogether! I did not even notice the bad ones til I was a ways in. I will try casting faster to keep mold temp up and also raisethe temp of the mix.
I am not sure of the alloy... I was told it was part plumbers lead... An old caster gave it to me out of his personal stash. I did add a pound of wheel weights in though just to make sure!
Most of them came out beautifully though! I was concerned by the color of the mix however.
Great job!
You will learn by doing.
Yes up your temp. and when
the sprue changes color cut and drop then repeat.
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I am working on the thermometer just don't have the funds right now. But soon! I never saw the sprue change color so I will look for that!
Being a newbie myself(started last summer) I've noticed temperature of the mold and melt are pretty key factors in making casting successful.
joseph - When the sprue changes color it does so because it has hardened enough to cut. If you look closely, you will also see it "suck down" on the last cavity poured. Time to cut it. Right now.... enjoy Mike
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smoked???
noooooooooo.
smoke adds oils back into the cavity's.
smoke is a last resort get you through a casting session bandaid only.
it's used to make the boolits fall from the cavity easier and it hides the true problem ,,,sorta,,,, usually,,kinda...maybe.
if you have problems getting the boolit from the mold you polish the cavity's and/or remove the burrs around the edges.
A little tin will also help in fill out, 1 or 2 %. Keep at it. Bushwack
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |