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Thread: Pid Controller Schematic

  1. #41
    Boolit Mold ChevelleDave's Avatar
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    I wish I could take credit for the pot upgrades, but it's a kit I bought off Ebay.


    I cannot tell You the quality and craftsmenship that is in this upgrade. It is all CNC machined and makes casting much easier then the stock mould guide. I really like the way it gets the support rod out of the way.

    Check it out, worth every penny.

    As far as castring, I am fairly new to it. I've been reloading for several years now, and the process of casting looked very cool to Me. I love doing any type of mechanical monkeying around.

    I built My version of a indoor casting booth.


    Then I vented it through the window to the outside.

    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 01-22-2016 at 12:03 PM.

  2. #42
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    Thanks for posting more photos. Looks great.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  3. #43
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks to y'all and a shooting friend for the controller ideas. Here's mine on it's first run after getting a brain:





    Probably the best casting day I've had. Quality was excellent. Visually and weight-wise. Very few culls.

    I have several pots, but this old Lyman has been a favorite for years, even though it was in "distressed" condition when purchased used about 20years ago.

    A "before" photo:


    BTW: That old Ideal 32-20 mould still makes good boolits.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
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    OK, I give up....What is that contraption above your furnace. A hanging weight? Some kind of a slide?...Gotta know!
    Roy B
    Massachusetts

    www.rvbprecision.com

  5. #45
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have a question. I'm not quite ready to start putting together a PID for my Lee bottom pour pot yet. But curiosity has the best of me.........................! What criteria do you use to chose from all the PID units available on the market. I mean, as a "non-electrically-minded" individual, all I know is I want to be able to see the temperature I'm requiring and the actual temperature of the molten alloy. It would be nice to have a light or alarm to let me know when the temperature is back up to the requested temperature after adding alloy to the pot. Only have the one pot to control. Can't see why I'd ever want the alloy to be hotter than 750 degrees. I see 14 different PID Controllers just on the Auberins site. On other on-line sites I see tons of them. What criteria do you use to chose one?

  6. #46
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    Chris,
    My venture into building a PID, started with the Cheapest components possible.
    But, I wanted it to display Fahrenheit.
    So I ordered from "Deal Extreme", for $26 and free shipping from Hong Kong...4 weeks later, I got a PID ...that was defective. I was bummed.

    BUT
    I was impressed with the manual, compared to what I heard about Mypin's manual.
    So I ordered the same unit from a USA source, for a few bucks more, but shipping was extra.
    http://www.lightobject.com/JLD612-Du...oller-P43.aspx
    While this PID can be setup to control temperatures on many things heating and cooling, I was happy to see the "example in the manual is just about exactly what we want it to do with a lead alloy pot.
    http://fhupiora.fhupiora.home.pl/JLD612Manual.pdf

    If you are going to build one, it's best to have a good grasp on it capabilities.
    It'll help you understand how to set the parameters.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  7. #47
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
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    The controller's I've seen, all show the set temperature as well as the value in the pot. (PV)

    You don't really need or use any more than that in my experience. Wired some external alarms on 1 unit and didn't bother on the other 2 units. FWIW
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  8. #48
    Boolit Buddy
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    Okay, I get "don't buy on the cheap and expect quality".........and I yield to experience and will forgo alarms. But I guess my question is what attributes would make you choose one model over another? Such as.........what is the difference between 1/16 DIN and 1/32 DIN, and why would one choose one over the other for our purpose?
    Last edited by Chris C; 01-26-2016 at 12:09 PM.

  9. #49
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    Not to confuse you more, but many have bought the cheapest and have been successful...I could have easily gotten a working PID cheaply from Hong Kong, But I didn't, that was just my experience. So with that aside, and after reading the experiences of many members who have built them. If you are not the least bit familiar with what a PID is, a manual that is easy to read as opposed to a manual that is poorly translated from Mandarin, would be a huge attribute to look for...am I correct ?

    Is having the temperature display Fahrenheit a big deal for you...some of the cheapest ones on Fleabay only display in Celsius.

    The DIN size is just that, the physical size of the PID and what size hole you need to mount it into.



    PS: I posted a link to the manual for the unit I bought, that I thought was fairly easy to understand. below is the link to the Mypin manual...take the time to read through it,and see if you come to the same conclusion as me...it's difficult to understand.
    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5ff...LTQ/edit?pli=1
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 01-26-2016 at 12:43 PM.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  10. #50
    Boolit Master

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    The PID controllers all will Autotune the P, I, & D values. If we had to do them manually we'd all go nuts. Those determine how often and the duration of when power goes to our lead pot and keep the temperature pretty constant.

    The JDL-612 unit looks nice at $32.50 + shipping. Similar to the Auber SYL-2352 at $46.50 + shipping. But the only thing they'll really do better than a REX C100 is read in F or C and that is available for $13.04 on one site and they set up just as easily. Depends on whether a F readout is worth an extra $20-$30 to you. I might add I had a Mypin TA4-SNR and thought something was wrong with it. Returned it for another and it did the same thing. I didn't care for the way it was constantly cycling the power out unlike my Auber or Rex did. Bought another Rex. Other model Mypins may go about things differently than the SNR. Don't know about that.
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  11. #51
    Boolit Master Ole Joe Clarke's Avatar
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    Jmoore: I have the same Lyman casting unit that you show. I am a complete dunderhead when it comes to electrical stuff, if it needs turning, milling etc., that's my history. Question, you have a electrical device mounted on the side of the thermostat, do you have a photo of the wiring inside that? I sure do need to see what it looks like.

    Thanks

  12. #52
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbertalotto View Post
    OK, I give up....What is that contraption above your furnace. A hanging weight? Some kind of a slide?...Gotta know!
    The contraption is a sliding (and coincidentally a pivoting) arm for the long probe thermocouple. Since the pot is so small in diameter, it's handy to move the thermocouple out of the way whilst charging the pot, etc. Thought it might need a weight, but it turned out that it wasn't required.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Joe Clarke View Post
    Jmoore: I have the same Lyman casting unit that you show. I am a complete dunderhead when it comes to electrical stuff, if it needs turning, milling etc., that's my history. Question, you have a electrical device mounted on the side of the thermostat, do you have a photo of the wiring inside that? I sure do need to see what it looks like.

    Thanks
    If you note in the "before" photo, the old receptacle was missing when I bought it years ago. Figured it was time to sort that, and added a ground wire in the process. The box was an old work light base which got the big holes covered over. Really nothing to it aside from the fiberglass cloth header wrap insulation. Had nothing to do with the PID! My other old Lyman pot still has the factory plug and cord without the ground.

  13. #53
    Boolit Bub MBfrontier's Avatar
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    Thanks to all those that have posted info on this subject. For me, this is a learning experience.

    I just purchased the components to build a PID unit for controlling the temperature of my Lee Pro 4 20 pot. I purchased a MYPIN TA4-SSR Controller, a 25A SSR w/Heat Sink, and a K-type thermocouple rated at 700 deg. Celsius. I am mounting the components in a case from a dead computer power supply. So far, the PID control unit was delivered so I started assembling the control unit and on/off switch in the case. Here's a picture of the progress so far.

    I still need to install the SSR and heat sink, the connector block, and a plug for the pot in the case.

    My question is did I buy the correct thermocouple? It is rated at 700 deg. Celsius and I'm wondering if I should have purchased a 1200 deg. Celsius unit? Here is the eBay link:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-3m-Stain...QAAOSwqYBWouai

    Thanks for any input.
    Last edited by MBfrontier; 05-15-2016 at 09:32 AM.

  14. #54
    Boolit Master

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    700c is at least 1200f so you're good to go on that.
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  15. #55
    Boolit Bub MBfrontier's Avatar
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    Thanks, Mike.

    Since I posted my question I learned that I can set the upper limit of my thermocouple on the controller. I found the video on YouTube to be very helpful in navigating the MYPIN TA4-SNR user manual and how to set up the parameters. My unit is the MYPIN TA4-SSR but close enough to get me started (I think). I'm sure this YouTube video is listed somewhere on this forum but for anyone that is interested, here is the link:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDlfU2_Anps

    So far, I'm having fun with this project. Looking forward to receiving the remaining parts so I can get the unit running, programmed, and working with my pot.

  16. #56
    Boolit Bub
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    I am having trouble understanding why the C/F junction in the terminal would not cause a short or problem. If I am seeing this correctly, the negative post from the SSR is attached directly to the hot, or positive, wire from the wall - wouldn't this create some sort of short?

    FYI I have an extremely limited understanding when it comes to wiring.

  17. #57
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Bilco - STOP. SSR is in series with the wall AC line, either hot or 'cold' side of the AC. BOTH wires of wall AC go to the PID. Consider both as independent circuits. The SSR (+/-) goes to the PID +/- terminals.
    Whatever!

  18. #58
    Boolit Bub
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    I think I got it now. I didn't understand how the SSR functioned and was looking at in the schematic provided at the start of the thread as a left/right thing not up/down. Makes complete sense now.

  19. #59
    Boolit Bub MBfrontier's Avatar
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    Project done. Holds temp at +/- 2 degrees. Thanks to Mike W1 for sending me the programming parameters.

    Heres a pic:
    Mike B.

  20. #60
    Boolit Buddy stu1ritter's Avatar
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    Any chance of a copy of those parameters?
    thanks,
    Stu
    De gustibus non est disputandum

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check