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Thread: Pid Controller Schematic

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Cmm_3940's Avatar
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    Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

  2. #22
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    Edited - Never mind. Think I answered my own question.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy stu1ritter's Avatar
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    W0FMS, thanks for making this very easy.
    Stu
    N0LEF

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Cmm_3940's Avatar
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    It Lives

    It isn't fancy, but it doesn't need to be. Here is my new PID controller. I put it together for about $50. Thanks for the help, guys.


  5. #25
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    With that colour at least you won't lose it! And you're right, it doesn't need to be fancy, just functional. Keep it simple.

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
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    Bodine, I would like to thank you for posting this. I used your schematic to wire my PID, and it works great.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
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    After trying to explain how to hook up a PID unit I've made some adaptions to part of somebody else's drawing and came up with this. After trying a couple methods I've found it's easiest to save the image with a right click and loading it into MS Word for printing. If you are interested in a JPG file which is easily altered with MS Paint PM me. Any suggestions on bases I didn't cover would be appreciated. Changed the thing a bit. Do have one available for
    SYL-2352 and one Mypin model. PM me if interested.

    Last edited by Mike W1; 06-04-2015 at 09:38 PM. Reason: updated jumpers
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
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    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  8. #28
    Boolit Man RegisG's Avatar
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    I've got the parts on the way but, don't know what size box I will need. One link here on site is old ebay and item is gone.
    Appreciate any tips on box size. PID & 40a SSR and the small parts.

    Thanks
    Regis


    Quote Originally Posted by Cmm_3940 View Post
    It isn't fancy, but it doesn't need to be. Here is my new PID controller. I put it together for about $50. Thanks for the help, guys.


  9. #29
    Boolit Mold deoje's Avatar
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    I used a 30 cal ammo can for mine. That might be an option depending on what you want.

  10. #30
    Boolit Mold
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    Hey all,
    I like many others are getting into casting, couple questions, is it okay to melt your wheel weights in your pot such as the lee 420, I want to do this to control the temp in case there is any zinc, don't want to go above 725. with all this talk about thermo couplers couldn't you just put water in the pot and see what temp for each number on the reo-stat. ( I know not to get water near the pot with lead in it)
    any thoughts would be much appreciated.

    Brian

  11. #31
    bhn22
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    Lees pots don't really have a thermostat, they're the bimetal type controller, and have large temp variances. Water boils at 212*, so that won't be much help for you either when you need about triple that temperature for casting. I normally don't use a casting worthy pot to smelt because it usually introduces dirt and other contaminants to the pot, and they can be difficult to get clean again. Get a good thermostat and use it to set your temps, and don't rely too heavily on Lee pots for fine temp adjustments.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master Electric88's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about building a PID using the components mentioned in this thread. Is it possible to use the same PID for a toaster oven (for powder coating) as well as a Lee Pro 4-20 casting furnace? They would not be used at the same time, I am more interested in whether it will be versatile between the two. Thank you!

  13. #33
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Electric88 View Post
    I'm thinking about building a PID using the components mentioned in this thread. Is it possible to use the same PID for a toaster oven (for powder coating) as well as a Lee Pro 4-20 casting furnace? They would not be used at the same time, I am more interested in whether it will be versatile between the two. Thank you!
    Absolutely !
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  14. #34
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
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    I'd suggest you check Auber's Q&A on what TC to use for the toaster as some have faster response times than others according to them.
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
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    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Electric88's Avatar
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    I was looking at the MyPin TA4 SSR temp controller. Also, in reading over the components suggested, I am slightly confused as to why the original parts list suggests a 20A fuse as opposed to a 40A fuse if the 40A SSR is used. Perhaps I am overlooking something though. I greatly appreciate all the input!

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    'K' long probe - high temp insulation, long braid protected leads. Fits in the pot or in a hole in the side of the oven. 40 amp SSR is about SSR reliability - runs cooler - when properly heatsinked. Heat is a killer for the SSR. 15 amp fuse is for wire fire protection only - I don't use one, the Lee pot doesn't have one either. It will NOT protect the PID, SSR or anything else.
    Whatever!

  17. #37
    Boolit Master Electric88's Avatar
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    I did read earlier that a good grease is needed for between the SSR and the heatsink in order for it to run correctly. If the fuses aren't needed, I might just skip them then. Unless they are just used in tandem with the indicator lights to show that a short has occurred?

  18. #38
    Boolit Man RegisG's Avatar
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    Be sure that it is a good "conductive" grease. Best to get a tube of thermal grease made for this. About a dollar.
    Regis

    Quote Originally Posted by Electric88 View Post
    I did read earlier that a good grease is needed for between the SSR and the heatsink in order for it to run correctly. If the fuses aren't needed, I might just skip them then. Unless they are just used in tandem with the indicator lights to show that a short has occurred?

  19. #39
    Boolit Mold ChevelleDave's Avatar
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    Got Mine built, works AWESOME. Thanks for all the info off this thread.


  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChevelleDave View Post
    Got Mine built, works AWESOME. Thanks for all the info off this thread.

    It looks like you did some mods to the pot, maybe take some more photos and start a new thread on what you did and why. Looks like some craftsmanship went into your work...and from the looks of your bench, you are not new to casting.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check