I just found a half dozen sticks of orange magic at a garage sale for $1.50 each. The Lyman web site implies that its the best thing going. Anybody useing or used it? I am casting for 35 Rem. 45-70, 44 mag and 458 Lott.
Thanks, Stubert
I just found a half dozen sticks of orange magic at a garage sale for $1.50 each. The Lyman web site implies that its the best thing going. Anybody useing or used it? I am casting for 35 Rem. 45-70, 44 mag and 458 Lott.
Thanks, Stubert
I used a stick of it for my 44. I had to put a heat lamp on the lubrisizer to get it to flow. Performed well at the range. Then I started using BAC and it is just as good without having to have a heat source on.
I would use it again if I had some that did not cost retail.
Making your own magic orange lube should be no problem. Mix the felix lube as usual, but instead use orange oil for the solvent, which is typically baby oil, III, neatsfoot, Mobil 1, etc. This oil should give the lands more bite in those situations where boolit stripping might be involved. However, it is best to cut the amount of castor oil when stripping is suspected. ... felix
felix
Offer them a $1 for the lot or make FWFL, buy Lars Red OR Bullshop Green. Gianni
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
I used a little bit and then threw the rest away. I did not like it at all.
The only Lyman lube I will use is super molly. FWIW.......Buck
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I use orange magic, but only when I blend up a lube. I use 3 sticks OM, 2 sticks super moly and 1 stick BPS to soften. Use it up to 2300fps in a 50cal so far, with good results
I've used quite a lot of it. No real problems. A bit hard I think and it flakes out of the driving bands occasionally but it is ok. I prefer Lyman Alox.
At one time I used a lot of Orange Magic with pistol buillets and it works quite well. I always used a heater as it is a bit hard.
Chuck
If you have already bought it and you find it not suitable for the lubesizer, you could melt it and use it as a pan lube with something to soften it.
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I have several lubrisizers. One Ly 450 is on a heater and it stays loaded with OM. Years ago I used alot of it. Never had an issue with it. I find that FWFL is 'mo betta' for lubing (no heat needed). As time goes by, I use OM less and less, because FWFL works SOOOO good.
There will always be a soft spot in my heart for orange magic, it was the first lube I was able to break 2.5K ACCURATELY with in a rifle. Coincidence and timing I am sure, but nevertheless it endeared me a bit.
I have since found better lubes but the OrangeMagic would still have it's place here if I did not make my own lubes. OM is a great hot humid condition lube for high intensity rifle rounds in smooth barrels IMHO.
1stick of OrangeMagic mixed with 1 teaspoon of vaseline makes a damn fine lube for barrels/loads that are not hungry for large amounts of "slickies" in a lube. The vaseline simply makes the lube alot easier to work with by removing some of its misbehaving/slightly brittle handling qualities.
I would guess OM is basically composed of a high melt temp microcrystalline wax ,based on my playings around with lube making and it's many components.
I'm using Orange Magic in my 450 with a heater.. seems to work just fine for me...
It does take a while to heat up.. but I've had other lubes like that..
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |