Load DataLee PrecisionWidenersTitan Reloading
RotoMetals2Reloading EverythingRepackboxInline Fabrication
MidSouth Shooters Supply Snyders Jerky
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 29

Thread: First melt questions

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Texas of course
    Posts
    285

    First melt questions

    Hi guys,

    I'm new here and a stone cold casting newbie. I've been reloading for about 20 yrs for 10 calibers both rifle and pistol.

    I love to reload, I'm cheap.. err... thrifty and got my first taste of casting at a buddy's house last week.

    I'm not certain, but it looks like I'm hooked on another aspect of reloading and shooting. I like adding a new dimension to the sickness.

    I've learned (finally) to ask questions, learn about the process and get my facts straight before I spend the first dime. The only problem now, is I'm startin' to jones a little... I got to get started casting or I am going to need therapy for wasting all that money on commercial bullets.

    The first thing I am going to tackle is doing the first melt and pouring ingots. I have been told, an aluminium muffin tin will work just fine for this.

    For a furnace, I am looking at the Lee 4-20 bottom pour or the RCBS unit. The Lee unit is less than ?? the price, so I will probably start with it to see if the 20lb capacity meets my needs.

    I think I will need something different to do the initial melt. I hope to make enough ingots to last for a while. I have been told, doing so with a small pot will run you nuts and sometimes take almost forever. OK, I can see that, but what are my options ?

    My initial thought is to buy a big aluminium (30 qt) or cast iron fry pot (16 qt is the biggest I can find so far) and run it with my 175,000 btu turkey fryer burner and a thermometer. Using it to melt and make the first flux then use a dipper to drop the lead into the muffin pan(s) for ingots.

    I have been told, the first melt of salvage wheel weights is a pretty nasty thing. Lot's of foul smoke and lot's of work.

    I don't mind the work, this is a hobby, and it can potentially save money on bullet costs.

    The large continual stream of foul/toxic smoke won't be too big of a PITA for me, but I am wondering about what the neighbors will notice/think. It is my hope that I can do this somewhat on the QT. I live in a suburban neighborhood and not all of my neighbors are shooters. Some are known anti's.

    How can I minimize the smoke and smell ?

    What't the most efficient way to make ingots quickly ?

    Any suggestions for an equipment list ?

    At this point I have a turkey fryer with a hell of a burner setup a few toy budget bucks and a whole lot of desire, with a shooting habit that won't let up.

    Any comments or suggestions are most welcome. For the first time (if you knew how old I am you would realize how long it has taken to learn) I hope to keep the wasted money spent to a minimum.

    Thanks for letting me just barge in like this, I will do my best to use the search function and not ask too many stupid/lazy questions.

    I need some help from the BTDT experience you guys have.

    BigSlick
    ________
    New jersey marijuana dispensary
    Last edited by BigSlick; 05-03-2011 at 09:36 AM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Helena, Mt.
    Posts
    5,389
    I don't think anyone on this forum will recommend aluminum for smelting....too dangerous. It's possible to get near the melting point of aluminum while smelting, the pot fails, and you have molten lead on you feet, and everything else. The turkey fryer will work fine, as long as whatever base you use to set the pot on is strong enough times two.

    For an ingot mould, it is probably fine. Lead won't stick to aluminum, and heat is shed fast enough that a failure is unlikely.

    I use three Lee lead pots, two of the 10 pounders and one Pro 4-20. I like them, they have a few warts, but for the cost they are very durable and long lived. There are other more expensive and better built bottom draw pots available, since I don't own one of those, I'll let someone else tell you about them. My philosophy is to spend as little as possible to first learn if this is "your thing" before diving in. You can always sell the less expensive stuff and upgrade later.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy jballs918's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Munford TN
    Posts
    496
    big,


    if you have a harbor freight they have a dutch iron, best 14 dollars spent other then the 5 for the 7 hole cast iron cornbeard tray

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



    Crash_Corrigan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Las Vegas Craig&US95
    Posts
    1,396
    I agree with jballs918, we are both in Vegas besides; get yourself one of those large dutch cast iron ovens with a top. I got mine in belz mall in a kitchin store. Bass pro shops has a dandy selection of cast iron stuff and I just last week picked up some tiny 3 1/2' cast iron ash trays with the bass pro shops emblem on the bottom. I do not smoke. They make dandy ingot molds and at only $4.95 I bought 8. I fill 'em with molton lead whilst they are perched on a handy 2 x 4 hank of wood and when I have about 4 filled I put down the ladle (a worn out soup ladle rescued from my trash bin) and carefull place the loaded 2 x 4 on the concrete deck to cool while I load another 4. About as soon as I get the 2nd four loaded the 1st set are cool enough to dump onto the floor. (You might want to keep your dogs, cats and kids away) and pretty soon your cast iron pot will be empty and you will have a pile of 3 1/2 " 3/4 thick round little ingots all over. They store well and do not take up much space. They also fit into my Lee 4-20 molding pot really well. I love it. One of our members suggested using a cheapo set of vise grips to hang onto the actuating rod to prevent leaks. Boy was that a good tip! Also BruceB, another Silver State resident, had the idea of keeping a small tray containing a towel or a rag soaking in water handy. This will be utilized to cool off the sprue plate on your mold oncst the sprue turns color from molton to silver. Flip over the mold and hold the hot sprue plate whilst is sizzles. Ya keep it on there for up to 3 seconds and they open the sprue plate and you won't get lead smears on the top of the mold. By the way hold the mold upside down after that operation and dump the boolits out upside down into a bucket of cold water. It should be covered with a piece of cloth with a slit in it. This will prevent any water from splashing up onto your work area and heaven forbid into your lead pot. Check BruceB's posts on this site. He is good....real good. There is a ton of info on Lee 6 banger molds. I have about 5 of them and I love them. They are fast and easy and put out a lot of boolits cheaply. I am going to try out some of the bull plate lube next as that seem to be a good deal also. Lurk on the forum and read up on past posts. There are a ton of decent people here who all were newbies at one time. I use wax that was wrapping cheese for a flux and it works just fine. If any of the nosy neighbors want to know what you are doing TELL THEM YOU ARE MOLDING SINKERS TO GO FISHING WITH! Good luck, Dan Corrigan
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    US, Wash, PA
    Posts
    4,934
    Slick,

    Welcome to the most expensive money saving hobby ever created. At least that's how my wife describes it. Welcome to the board.

    You can seach this forum for the exact same questions that have been answered many times. The reading is worth while because of what you didn't think to ask.

    Smell from WW is caused by things that burn. Clean / seperate your WWs ahead of time and this is minimized. You can sort through your WWs at the same time so that you can remove the ones that are pure lead and possible zink ones which are the real no no. Keep some canning parrifin on hand and if it starts to smell too bad, throw in a chunk of that. It will burn for all get out but it tends to get it over with quickly instead of dragging it out.

    Remember, you can load up and take that setup out in the country somewhere that you don't have to worry about cleaning and just do what needs done.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    13,655
    I'm in the midst of suburbia and have had no complaints. Of course, years before I got into casting I was smoking meat, so the neighbors were used to smoke coming from my back yard!

    I cast with a ladle and melt my lead on an old Coleman stove hooked up to a 20lb gas bottle. I have no problem with the set-up and have been using it now for about five years. I initially melted lead in an old castoff 1 qt kitchen pot, and still use it for pure lead. I bought a Lymna 20 lb pot and use that for ww's. In fact, I just bought another old 1 qt pot at a thrift store to use with my 20/1 mix.

    With two burners going I can, and have, cast two different mixes with two different molds at the same time. I have also used this to cast bi-metal bullets. It's cheap and handy.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  7. #7
    Banned

    44man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    22,705
    You won't get a bunch of smoke unless you get a bunch of valve stems in the pot. I never have any smoke, just a little stink and once the steel clips are removed and the metal fluxed it all goes away.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
    9.3X62AL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Redlands, NorKifornia
    Posts
    11,551
    The smell.......just do what Buckshot does--he gets into his Official Summer Weight Smelting Uniform (campaign hat, jockstrap, and huaraches) and tells nosey neighbors that the smell is from "the sacrifice". That should set the proper ambiance.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Canton, Ohio
    Posts
    378
    If you think WW's smell bad, you should try old plumbing drain lines sometime. Whoa!

    I use a cast iron dutch oven for rendering down lead & WW's. 2 bucks at the thrift store.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    sundog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Green Country Oklahoma
    Posts
    3,500
    ...yea, and old shower pans. sundog

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    ANeat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Posts
    1,307
    Hey Slick; Glad to see you over here. Lots of great help and info. Ive been reading stuff for about a week now


    Adam

  12. #12
    Boolit Master At Heavens Range 2007 cherok9878's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    128
    Slick
    You are in the right place. there is more knowledge here, shared willingly, than any other shooting, loading site.
    The Harbor Freight Dutch oven works great for the initial melt and any old soup ladle will work as long as it is steel. Watch out for the plastic handles.
    I am new to casting also and saved a pile of $ by reading and applying the info to my situation.
    Fired two groups yesterday with 03A3, 06 and Lee soupcan, 50 yd, three shots cut each other with one flyer in each group. I would not have been able to accomplish this, without this site. "It is the greatest source of casting info on the net". Welcome and Have Fun............larry

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

    Calamity Jake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Okla. City
    Posts
    2,471
    Don't but your hot lead on the concrete floor the heat will cause the concrete to break and chip out, dump um out on a piece of plywood or the like.
    Use cast iron or thick walled stainless steel pot for smelting WW.
    I smelt WW once or twice a year so my neighbors don't complain.
    Just about anything works for flux, candle wax, motor oil, cooking oil, sawdust,
    bees wax just to name a few, what ever you use, flux and skim well (5-6times) before pouring.
    Calamity Jake

    NRA Life Member
    SASS 15704
    Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Posts
    6,134
    Bigslick
    The smoke is a little exagerated but it is there and it does stink so it's not something you want to do in the house for the initial melt. After it is cleaned up you can do it inthe garage or something as long as you have good ventalation. You could probubly find an old cast iron pot at a thrift store or garage sale for cheap. I sometimes use beer cans as a ingot mold. They come out to about 9#. You want them to be absolutely dry though. Liquids and molten lead don't mix and can explode! Make sure you don't use steel muffin pans or you will be pounding them out when they set up. Happy moulding!

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Canton, Ohio
    Posts
    378
    <sawdust>

    Huh? For real?

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Base of the Blue Ridge
    Posts
    1,145
    Yeah, neighbors should not be a problem because cleanup and ingot making is a once or twice a year thing. I use the turkey fryer, large dutch oven, and cornstick moulds. A bucket of WW at a go is about all the turkey fryer wants to melt. Any larger would be slow. Takes about three of the cornstick moulds to avoid having to wait for the alloy to solidify.

    I agree about keeping the moulds and hot ingots off concrete, but I would not use wood to do it. Tried that once and got charring and a pine resin stink that was about as bad as the pot. I have some scrap soapstone slabs around, but if I didn't, I'd pick up a concrete paver or two at a home improvement store. They might crack, too, but at a couple of bucks each, I can live with that.
    Sometimes you gotta wonder if democracy is such a good idea.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master wills's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    La Grange,Texas
    Posts
    2,127
    Have mercy.
    A haw, haw, haw, haw, a haw.
    A haw, haw, haw

  18. #18
    In Remembrance
    montana_charlie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    West of Great Falls, Montana
    Posts
    8,414
    Quote Originally Posted by BigSlick
    My initial thought is to buy a big aluminium (30 qt) or cast iron fry pot (16 qt is the biggest I can find so far) and run it with my 175,000 btu turkey fryer burner and a thermometer. Using it to melt and make the first flux then use a dipper to drop the lead into the muffin pan(s) for ingots.
    That entire description sounds pretty good, BigSlick...except for the size of the pot.

    A large dutch oven is about eight quarts, which is easily more than 50 pounds of alloy. A sixteen quart container...full of lead...might crush the legs of your turkey cooker.
    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master



    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwestern Ohio
    Posts
    8,456
    One gallon of molten lead weighs 92 lbs. So, you really don't need a gigantic pot. Just make sure it is cast iron or heavy steel (mine is welded up well casing that holds about 80 lbs). A wide pot is better than a tall pot for several reasons (will not tip as easily, easier to remove debris, and easier to dip from.

    The friend that made mine up made a heavy duty bail that hands OUTSIDE the range of the turkey cooker fire so it never gets super hot. When I dip out most of the lead, I can pick up the container and pour the remainder into the ingot moulds. Using angle iron, I had him make me up a three or four ingot mould. This does five pound ingots. Scrap angle iron is inexpensive. You don't need ALL of them to be one pound ingots although small ingots (one lb and under) are handy when calculating lead alloy percentages.

    I also keep a small, inexpensive calculator next to my scales to calculate alloy percentages. Very helpful.

    Dale53

  20. #20
    Banned

    44man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    22,705
    The most important thing for shooters is NOT to have neighbors----You should live out in the country and have a range. That is the first problem to solve.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check