Formula For Lead Removal Cloth

[robertbank]

I copied this formula off another forum for making Lead Removal Cloth. It is said to duplicate commercial lead removing cloths.

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

500 gr - 400 grit or finer aluminum oxide powder
450 gr - kerosene or #2 fuel oil
4 gr - lemon oil
5 gr - ammonium chloride

Take Care

Bob

[44man]

I kind of figured the stuff was abrasive.

[Ricochet]

And ammonium chloride is as corrosive a substance as there is, for steel.

[robertbank]

Now you know how it works. May make some up to clean my revover cylinders. No magic answers, still like my chor boy for my barrels.

Take Care

Bob

[utk]

I think this method deserves a place in this thread also:

The Chore boy stuff works fairly well. It does not get into the very corner of the rifling, IMO. Clamp a piece of aluminum in a vise. Use a hand file on this piece until you have a pinch of aluminum filings. Soak a patch with your favorite solvent. Sprinkle the filings onto the patch and run through the bore. This will remove lead right into the corner of the rifling. It will not scratch the barrel. I posted this on some forum before and some guy said it would create aluminum oxide and scratch the barrel. I don't believe that is true, but if someone is worried about it, use brass filings instead. Brass works just as well.

[Bad Water Bill]

What happens if you substitute SILICONE CARBIDE instead of aluminum oxide?

[Newtire]

duplicate commercial lead removing cloths.

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

500 gr - 400 grit or finer aluminum oxide powder
450 gr - kerosene or #2 fuel oil
4 gr - lemon oil
5 gr - ammonium chloride

Take Care

Bob

Thank you Bob for the great link!

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

why not make yourself a Lewis Lead Remover in rifle caliber? I used a punch to cut .003" over bore diameter discs out of old tires..similar to "bore pigs" for my black powder Sharps and HiWalls and the old Stevens 44 1/2. You can make the punches by using a 1/8" cutter on the lathe or a drill bit if it is close enough. Make a brass wire mesh cutter by doing the same thing (punch) about 3/4" diameter. Make or buy a short jag with a pointed "spear tip" on the front; and squeeze half a dozen rubber discs on. At the back, screw a small (under bore size) nut and coffe can plastic lid "washer" between the jag and the cleaning rod. "Spear" the brass mesh disc on the front and make ONE pass. Voila!!!! clean barrel, and no chemical treatment involved A square yard of 1/32nd inch mesh lasts about ten years unless you are a CBA competitor...

You are welcome and Merry Christmas

Rich

<inri><

[ELFEGO BACA]

My lead remover is made by taking an old brush appropiate for the caliber and wrap it once with 'T-shirt' material.

The next step requires the purchase of a copper scrub brush one usually buys for the kitchen.

I take a strand of this ribbon and wrap it around the cotton patch(T-shirt).

This snug fit brush works well for me in removing lead from a barrel

[RSOJim]

Hi guys, I read several years ago that Skeeter Skelton used a product for removing lead from his guns called "Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner Rust and Dirt Remover." I did an internet search about 4 or 5 years ago and came up with a phone number. Its 1-800-342-1548. You will be calling Big 45 Frontier Gun Shop in Hill City, South Dakota. This stuff looks like springs of stainless steel. You cut off just enough to wrap around your right size brush for whatever gun you want lead removed. It is non abrasive. It will not harm blued surfaces, I have tried, I have demonstrated this to several people at our gun range in central florida, everyone is amazed at how quickly lead just pours out of a barrel. I also use it to clean my revolver chambers. If you have an old military rifle and want to remove the copper fouling, just do the same thing but add copper solvent to your brush. Give it about 10 minutes to soak, then watch the green mud roll out of both ends of your barrel. I have never harmed a barrel with this stuff, it really works. I really don't know why this product has not been mentioned at this sight before now. I thought about it, but I also thought I might get hammered for suggesting such a drastic procedure for removing lead and copper. The guy that just previously posted before me suggested strands of copper wrapped around a brush, yes this looks like it will also work great. Ok, I will shut up and get off here. Thanks for reading.

[Nueces]

Hey, Jim

One reason this site is so cool is that everyone contributes their own stuff. Thanks for posting, and hang around some...

Mark

[RSOJim]

I just posted above about the springs of stainless steel. I just found an additional source while in the bathroom reading a Brownells catalog. Brownells lists it as a "Stainless Steel Sponge" part number 8K03Z99 and it sells for $5.24. For removing lead this is the best and fastest I have ever found. It will not remove blueing, therefore it is non abrasive. Thanks again Jim

[Arnie]

Shooting Black Powder Cartridge rifles has given me a great deal of experience in removing lead from barrels .I find that a product called Shiloh Creek Bore Solvent and a tight rough patch like the ones called Butches or the ones you can make out of certain tough and rough paper rags work real good at removing lead .I also spent along time reading on the internet about some guys looking for a formula that woudl disolve lead from bores and from what i read ,Model airplane fuel hi in nitro would probably work although i havent tried this .I also have found at our velocities in BP that stainless barrels will not lead .It might be the quality of the barrel or the stainless it self . Arnie

[hydraulic]

I have been using the "frontier" lead remover for several years. They sell them at the gun shows here in the west. Mostly, I use it for removing surface rust from old guns. Slather the metal with oil and lightly rub with the "choir girl", and the rust comes off but the blue doesn't.

[wickerbill]

Hey Jim
YOu don't have to go to Brownell. Just go to Wal-mart and get something called Brite Boys. It's the samething. Get the stainless, not the copper. I've been using it for years. Your right, it works real good. Combined with Kroil, it willremove rust frome any blued surfice and not touch the blueing.
Bill

[JohndeFresno]

Good stuff - thanks, all!

[georgeld]

Why take a chance on damaging your bore, or finish anywhere???
Sounds kinda stupid to me.

Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner works slick, easy and fast. PLUS it cleans everything out' lead, plastic, copper.

Fill a bronze brush with it, ten strokes, take a ten minute break, ten more strokes.
Then patch it clean. Any left, do it again. It won't hurt the bluing or the metal at all. BUT< it WILL take the finish off the stock, or oil out of the wood. IF you have a nasty old oil soaked stock, this is the stuff to clean it up with.

Midway, WM, most guns stores and supply houses have it for around $7 a tube. IF you can't find it anyplace. Just go to: www.novum.com, or bluewonder.com should come right up. Contact Ken and he might even send you a free sample tube to try out.

[testhop]

Now you know how it works. May make some up to clean my revover cylinders. No magic answers, still like my chor boy for my barrels.

Take Care

Bob

a long time ago i bought 6 qts of that g i bore cleaner u know the stinking stuff
at $1 a qt boy did it smell but it clean guns especaly the carbon on the cilenders
i still have 2 cans left nothing that i have found is as good i wonder if the gov. has


tom