Last edited by Plate plinker; 01-24-2018 at 03:38 PM.
pretty sporty there mehavey. No hard card under slug, no filling in cavity? Scoped?
"My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
Leonard Ravenhill
Wad column/hollow base left as-is in the pic Hogtamer.
(I did put an old 1-3x Weaver that I had laying around in a sock drawer onto the rail)
See https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...53#post6506653
(I picked up an additional rifled barrel for it from Brownells)
Well everyone seems to have decent results with some tweaking, and passable without for close in shots. I'm going to try these in a mosssberg 9200 with a rifled barrel and 2.5 scope. Win AA hull, WAA12F114 wad, Win 209 primer, 25.0 grains of Herco. Half the loads have a 12 ga. over shot card used under the sabot, the other half do not.
mehavey:
Are those soft lead or WW?
I haven't shot Lyman sabot slugs but have seen them on the range when I am looking for my slugs and/or boolits. Any I have found cast of soft lead have collapsed skirts. Not an issue if they collapse the same and are consistent but it seems to me a harder alloy would be better unless the collapse also causes outward growth (obturation) for engagement of the rifling.
I've been a bit curious about that.
Longbow
Pure lead.
I haven't played the water-jug game (yet) -- assuming that's
really the only way recover mostly non-deformed results
Deep snow is the best I have found but of course timing is everything! One has to shoot in winter and have at least 3' to 4' of snow... which we usually get.
Water jugs with a bucket of rags behind is next best in my experience. Pure lead will likely distort hitting water jugs but better than nothing. I always look for wads too. Wad condition is always informative of what is going on at ignition and in the bore.
How tight do you find the wad/slug combo pushing through a rifled barrel?
I am working on a slug load for my mossy 500 rifled barrel and have tried the follwing wads with the lyman 525
Claybuster windjammer
Claybuster copy of 12s3
Winchester AA12 white
So far each combo is tight as all heck to push through my barrel with a wooden dowel. Like both arms pulling the barrel down with the dowel resting on the ground. And using a ton of force. The combo pushes through but is it supposed to require a TON of effort?
Ive also shot with the windjammer clone (with 35gr of longshot in a gun club hull and 209 primer) and my accuracy was all over the place even at 25yrds. The recovered wads were obliterated. Petals gone and the gas seal mangled. Like it was blown to bits.
I pushed the same combos through my turkey barrel (with imp cyl and mod chokes) and the aa12 wad was still tight but the windjammers and 12s3 were loose in the barrel but tightened up at the choke.
Is this normal out of a rifled barrel?
Last edited by Boomer81; 04-19-2018 at 06:47 AM.
After speaking with hogtamer he advised me to stop using that setup because the wad is showing excessive damage. He posted a recipe that gives him good results and i am attempting to track down the components. Seems to be a tough challenge since i am in liberal gun fearing canada and sometimes my reloading options are second only to yman lol
While i was checking load datas for several hulls and wads i came across the hdgdon load data pdf. As i was looking something stood out.
Here is the one i just dloaded showing remington gun clubs
Now look at the options for the longshot powder with the win 209 primer. 2 loads. One with the WAA12 wad and one with rem r12l wad.
Only two options with that hull/powder/primer combo.
Now you might wonder "well boomer, why would you use a windjammer wad with that combo when its clearly not one of the options??" Well it is an easy enough answer. The load data i was using was from THIS hodgdon reloading page
They removed two recipes for that hull/longshot powder/win 209 primer. (One being my windjammer destroyer lol)
So they clearly found that all those loads they previously listed were terrible and took them all out except 2 combinations!
I am assuming this is normal for them to publish loads then remove them after they turn out to be ****?
Last edited by Boomer81; 04-19-2018 at 10:08 PM.
Yeah those wads are pretty mangled!
Have you tried the Lyman Slug reloading data for the 525 gr sabot slug? There are lots of published load recipes for that slug.
Are you filling the cavity with anything? Using a nitro card wad under the slug? Hard to tell from what's left of the wad but you want to keep the wad from blowing into the cavity.
I am in Canada too and know your frustration in trying to find reloading components but there are sources. Try Bilozir Fine Guns in DeWinton Alberta. He is a BPI distributor and can get most stuff.
By the way, the data you are showing here is for 1 1/8 oz. shot loads where that slug is closer to 1 1/4 oz. so that may make a difference too... though slugs supposedly generate less pressure than equivalent weight of shot due to less bore friction. Still it is best to use slug specific load data and there is a lot for that slug.
Can't answer your question on push through resistance for rifled gun but I'd think that if the slug/wad combo mic's at groove diameter to a little over groove diameter you'd be good. If too loose things won't go well so an easy push through would be bad. Not sure if yours is maybe too tight though? I'm a smoothbore shooter (so far anyway).
Longbow
Don't think anyone has loaded and shot every "book" load. They are generated by some program that on paper means everything should work. Often the fit doesn't though they may be safe. The Rem wads have an internal ridge that won't work with slugs. The Win wads may be ok but not the long ones.
"My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
Leonard Ravenhill
Thanks guys i will keep digging. So many posts and so many variables i appreciate the help!
I am planning on using these hunting deer at most 50 yards so anything close will be good enough for me. The worst part is not getting much time to go out and test firing the loads since i shoot at a friends place out of town.
I will see what i can test out and return when i can with findings.
My setup for the lymans are epoxy filled which ads a few grains to each so to lighten things up to be closer to the 1 1/8 i will use something else or try a nitro card. The nitro card pushes up the slug so i am assuming the driving band needs to make as much contact with the wad petals as possible.
I will send an email to that bpi dealer and see what i can get that i cant source myself.
The adventure continues!
3/4 oz = 328.125 gr
1.0 oz = 437.5 gr
1.125 oz = 492.1875 gr
1.25 oz = 546.875 gr
IF, a Lyman 12ga Sabot Slug is supposed to be 525 gr = 1.2 oz!
My Questions:
1. Is the Lyman 12ga Slug 525gr made with Wheel Weights, or Lead Pipe or Plumbers Lead, etc?
2. Has anyone used this 12 Gauge Sabot Slug Bullet Mold Svarog Match (Lyman style)?
3. Wheel Weights are the easiest to find. With Lyman Sabot Mold what does the Slug Weigh made with Wheels Weights?
My pet load is 25 grs of Herco in a WAA12 wad and STS hull. Great accuracy at 50 yards.
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I learned a lot since then…
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...5-for-Boomer81
"My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
Leonard Ravenhill
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |