I've been watching all day. Maybe tomorrow.
I've been watching all day. Maybe tomorrow.
I could not hunt this aft. But will be back at it tomorrow. I did shoot a few shots off today after hunting. They grou. Great. 3 shots all touching at 30 yards. Looks like they shot pretty clean. No leading from those 3 shots. Granted its only 3 shots. I oversized them to my bore by .0015. Seemed to seal well even with the hot load I have behind it.
That monster was out there at 150 to 200 yards for 30 min going back and forth in the brush. Just would not come closer.
Would have scored around 150. Over 20 wide.
Dug one up out of the dirt. Looks pretty good. Shot 10 rounds. Did get a lil leading. Looks like its from the rifiling stripping some. I am just loaded to hot.
No deer today btw. Sucks. Maybe tomorrow morning.
I keep an eye on mine. When I see one sticking out further than others, I use the allen wrench to run all of them back in. Usually go 50 casts before any need tweaking. I keep a pair of wrenches handy, but they usually don't get so hot that I need to switch while tweaking.
Jeff
I loaded up 15 yesterday at 10gr of 800x. Shot 5. Very little leading. So I am thinking 9.6 to 9.8 should shoot very clean with the alloy Oreo was using when he cast these for me. Shot them at 50 yards. Free hand standing. All hit the 4in sticker. The boolits do seem to travel well down range.
I am working on it. Maybe tomorrow. Or thur. But for sure sat I will. We are doing drives on a farm that has way more deer than can be counted. Lastyear we pushed only a small part of it with 42 guys. We shot 64 deer. That was only one small part of the farm. It's huge. This year looks like we will have 46 guys. So I am sure I will get a few with the 10 mm.
What lube are you using ctious?
Tac 1
Last night I came up with an idea. How to cast the boolit hard but keep the hp soft. All without using 2 different mixes. I got the idea from sword making. What if you were to cast ww with some pure sold lead. Air cool. So they would be like 8 or 9. Then dab the hp tips with clay. Then oven harden them. The clayed over area would stay cool keeping it soft but the base would harden up. There would be no sharp change over in hardness so it should hold together well. But still expand in the nose.
Just an idea.
meh....just use airdropped WWs and shoot the thing...I think it would be too much work and likely ineffective. The base is solid it will take care of itself. From looking at the shallow point if it breaks up it wont lose much cause there is plenty of solid behind it. You worrying too much bro...back to my jerky...
I agree, air cooled wheel weights should work well, if you're pushing them hard in the 10mm and looking for "rivet" expansion for hunting, rather than "blooming flower" expansion like sd hollow points. If you're still having leading with them fit to the bore right, try some plain base gas checks, that should take care of it.
Indeed as Yonderling said.
I have been running an Eric Ohlen designed 170 bevel base HP very similar to our GB's boolit. I started having some serious leading at about 1400 fps thru my Delta. I purchased a "Checkmaker" for PB 40/10mm. .008" Foster beer can checks have virtually eliminated the leading.
I lube with a mix of beeswax/Vaseline/paraffin/STP. I use the same lube in my Hornady-checked .44's (Marlin 300gr@1400 fps & SBH 280gr@1200 fps) with zero leading. Lead is a nickel babbitt alloy; hardness at about 17 quenched.
I'd wanna keep clay away from the bore. Any residue left on the boolit would be abrasive.
Aside from that, the documented method of scooping a measured amount of soft lead into the mold, topping it of with something harder, and then heating the mold till the soft and hard layers bond has proven to make a soft nosed boolit with plenty of integrity. Its probably an easier method then messing with clay too.
I also agree that a single alloy boolit of the correct hardness is likely to perform pretty well in this case. If I was looking for a way to improve the boolit (and I am) I'd think about modifying the shape and size of the hp cavity to perform optimally with your alloy of choice. This way, all your problems are solved by simply swapping in the right hp pin and you can focus on cranking out boolits. No one has really tested either of the hps of this boolit yet but I think there's room in the performance envelope for both a larger (15gr as posted in the discussion thread) hp, as well as an intermediate hp that splits the difference between the two pins we have.
All that aside, I don't want to discourage anyone from experimenting. You never can tell where you might learn something new.
Well I got to cast with my new mold today, weight comes out at 182 to 183 gr (large hollow point)with my WW lead at .402 dia.
It took a few runs to get the temp right, the mold works great, boolits drop just fine.
I would like to thank Oreo for running this buy and MiHec for making a great mold.
This is my first group buy and first brass mold and all I can say is,
THANK YALL SO MUCH!!!
Last edited by RED333; 11-21-2012 at 08:29 PM.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |