Is the Savage barrel switch really that easy?

[rtracy2001]

When my oldest daughter wanted to start hunting, I found a cheap Savage 110 long action in 243 at a local pawn shop. I cut the stock down to fit her and took 2 inches off the barrel to better balance the rifle. It shoots well (all my Savage rifles do) and she likes the gun.

Fast forward to today, my youngest has decided that she wants to go deer hunting next year when she is old enough. Daughter #1 won't give up "her" 243, (even offered to let her use my 308 but no!) so I have to buy a gun. (Ow, Ow, Ow, don't twist my arm, right? ) Being the cheapskate that I am I am looking to pull the same trick, buy a used full-size rifle and cut it down to fit the girl. Thus far I have not been able to find another reasonably priced 243.

I was thinking: Supposedly the barrel swap on a Savage 110 is dirt easy. I have seen several 110's in 30-06 with prices approaching the reasonable, and barrels are not insanely expensive (I may be able to make some back by selling the takeoff, but even so the 30-06 + a new barrel is still less than most want for the 243). For that matter, I may be able to talk daughter #1 into stepping up to a 7mm-08 (she wants to hunt elk next year too) so her barrel could go onto Daughter #2's gun and she gets the 7mm-08 barrel.

As I understand it, all I really need is an action wrench, lock nut tool, and a headspace gauge. Remove the old barrel, tighten the new barrel down on the headspace gauge and tighten the lock nut. (assuming the boltface is correct for the intended caliber). It is really that simple?

[Mooseman]

Yes ...It IS !!!

[MtGun44]

No big deal. If you don't want to spring for a headspace gage, use a factory round and
make sure that at least 6 or so are checked to be snug but not binding WITH THE EXTRACTOR
and EJECTOR removed from the bolt so you can really FEEL it.

Should be able to close on a factory round with 1 layer of masking tape on the base, max.

Bill

[Bulldogger]

If it is an older Savage, it should be easy enough. I recently had a new Savage Axis rebarreled after trying to do it myself and the experience was awful.

The gunsmith I took it to after trying till cross-eyed to remove the new .223 bbl said it was the hardest barrel he's ever removed.

Savage now tumbles finished actions in media before coating them with powder coat or whatever plastic-y looking coating mine has. The media is 0.5mm metal balls. This media can and does intrude into the bbl and receiver threads. When unscrewing, you have to #1 put that sucker in a vise tighter than a Scotsman's coin purse, and #2 use compressed air to blow the media out as you turn. Then clean it all up and rebarrel as normal.

The advice of #1 is based on my personal experience, #2 is straight from Savage. I got a call from them after sending back a terribly marred brand new .223 bbl (and that was done by a professional with 10 yrs experience, not me). They called me and explained the new finishing technique and finished with "You should have sent it to us to remove the barrel. We wouldn't have installed the new non-Savage barrel of course, and we NEVER recommend removing our barrels or rebarreling our actions."

I got the Axis to rebarrel to .300 Blackout, and it is now done, but at a cost I could have bought a Remington 700 or a nice older Savage 110. Next time, I will buy something made the year I was born. I might not be easy to fix, but the gun will be...

You Mileage May Vary, I've not heard any horror stories like mine with any Savages, even new cheapo Axis models. But it can happen, and did.

Forewarned is fore-armed.

Bulldogger

[swheeler]

When my oldest daughter wanted to start hunting, I found a cheap Savage 110 long action in 243 at a local pawn shop. I cut the stock down to fit her and took 2 inches off the barrel to better balance the rifle. It shoots well (all my Savage rifles do) and she likes the gun.

Fast forward to today, my youngest has decided that she wants to go deer hunting next year when she is old enough. Daughter #1 won't give up "her" 243, (even offered to let her use my 308 but no!) so I have to buy a gun. (Ow, Ow, Ow, don't twist my arm, right? ) Being the cheapskate that I am I am looking to pull the same trick, buy a used full-size rifle and cut it down to fit the girl. Thus far I have not been able to find another reasonably priced 243.

I was thinking: Supposedly the barrel swap on a Savage 110 is dirt easy. I have seen several 110's in 30-06 with prices approaching the reasonable, and barrels are not insanely expensive (I may be able to make some back by selling the takeoff, but even so the 30-06 + a new barrel is still less than most want for the 243). For that matter, I may be able to talk daughter #1 into stepping up to a 7mm-08 (she wants to hunt elk next year too) so her barrel could go onto Daughter #2's gun and she gets the 7mm-08 barrel.

As I understand it, all I really need is an action wrench, lock nut tool, and a headspace gauge. Remove the old barrel, tighten the new barrel down on the headspace gauge and tighten the lock nut. (assuming the boltface is correct for the intended caliber). It is really that simple?

You need some way to hold the barrel to break the action loose after nut is removed, I use a barrel vise. When I set headspace I do not remove the coil spring ejector but do remove the extractor, don't lose the steel detent ball when you slide the extractor out of bolt face. Always make sure the chamber and bolt face are clean before setting headspace.

[flounderman]

why bother rebarreling? You can load a 110 grain 30 caliber down to 2800 and have the same thing as a 243. Plus the shortened 30 caliber barrel will feel much lighter than a 243 barrel. I have a 30-06 bar with a few inches off the end of the barrel and it changes the feel completely.

[MBTcustom]

When unscrewing, you have to #1 put that sucker in a vise tighter than a Scotsman's coin purse

I resemble that remark!!
For the most part Savage barrel changes are a walk in the park. With any factory rifle, getting the original barrel off is the hard part. Most manufacturers torque the living snot out of their barrels and that is totally unnecessary. Just run it tight and bump the wrench with a rubber hammer a couple times. Also, I would rent the headspace gauge. Its only like $5 from Elk Ridge http://www.reamerrentals.com/searchresults.asp?cat=26
I confess, I do use tape on the base of the Go gauge to check the No Go on hunting chambers, just to make for darn sure that the barrel didn't bottom out on something other than the head space gauge, but for the most part just screw that sucker on, lock it down, and sight it in. Done. (but you need some way to check No Go, even if you do the tape thing, you need something. Its just simple safety.)
The next time you want to replace the barrel, it will probably be a lot easier unless you put a cheater bar on the wrench.
Savages are fun.
BTW, I have a take off barrel from a 7mm-08 Stevens 200. I bought it from a member here along with a .223 thinking that I might use them if somebody comes in with a blown barrel. If you would like either of them, I will make you a really sweet deal.

[DCM]

I would rent the gauges to be sure of things.
I set mine up with a brand new case/cartridge as my go gauge when installing the barrel and give it just a little extra room.
This keeps my brass working to a minimum and allows the rifle to function properly.
I still use the gauges AND new case for a final check when I am done.
If you set it up so it just closes on the go gage it may not close on the new brass/ammo.

[rtracy2001]

I would rent the gauges to be sure of things.
I set mine up with a brand new case/cartridge as my go gauge when installing the barrel and give it just a little extra room.
This keeps my brass working to a minimum and allows the rifle to function properly.
I still use the gauges AND new case for a final check when I am done.
If you set it up so it just closes on the go gage it may not close on the new brass/ammo.

That is worrysome. Go gauges should be at SAAMI maximum cartridge, so if it closes on the go gauge any SAAMI compliant cartridge of that caliber will fit and headspace within acceptable tolerance.

Sounds like your new brass wasn't sized before loading.

As far as loading a 110 gr bullet for the '06, I'll have to check on that as most 110 gr bullets in 30 caliber are plinking or varmint bullets and may not perform well on game.

[JesterGrin_1]

Years ago I did try the Lighter bullet selections in the 30-06 and there accuracy was not good at all. I did not get accuracy back till I was in the 165 to 180Gr Class.

[DCM]

The go gauge is the MINIMUM for the cartridge.
It should not close on the NO GO gauge if it does you have excess headspace.

[rockrat]

The 125 Nosler BT might be what you want. Also, check into the Barnes 110gr. If I were you, I would grab the 7-08 barrel from Goodsteel (Yeah, I resemble that remark too!!) and just find a 308 bolt face rifle and switch the barrel. I converted my Savage to 300 blackout. Took more time to round up the tools to do the switch ,than it took to do the switch.

[DCM]

Here are some pics of my savage switch barrel and tools.

http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...avage3Jpeg.jpg
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...avage2Jpeg.jpg
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...avage1Jpeg.jpg
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...avage4Jpeg.jpg

Sorry for the links but CB kept saying that my photos are not photos!

One of the 4 barrels is shouldered so the standard barrel nut is not used the other 3 use the Savage lock nut set up.
The action wrench and barrel vice must be used on that combination.

The no go gauge has a red stripe on it and is 0.0095" longer than the go gauge and yes head-space is actually measured off of the small angled part at the top not the flat. But if one sets the 2 next to each other you would see that the angled part is farther from the base on the no go than the go.

There are a number of boxes in the photo that contain different size/type/style bushings for the barrel vise in the photo one needs to use the correct ones.
The little Brunswick bag is powdered rosin for the bushings/vise.

Another note to doing a switch barrel, it is recommended that you get an aftermarket recoil lug that is ground flat. The factory ones are rarely actually flat as they are a stamped piece.
The problem with that is when you bed the recoil lug it may not fit back in correctly when you do your switch barrel where one that is actually flat should.

[swheeler]

That is worrysome. Go gauges should be at SAAMI maximum cartridge, so if it closes on the go gauge any SAAMI compliant cartridge of that caliber will fit and headspace within acceptable tolerance. Sounds like your new brass wasn't sized before loading.

As far as loading a 110 gr bullet for the '06, I'll have to check on that as most 110 gr bullets in 30 caliber are plinking or varmint bullets and may not perform well on game.

That is correct

[DCM]

That is correct

OH really??

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...se-Them-Part-I

http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=24834

http://www.odcmp.org/0309/M1Headspace.asp

added:http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/p...ngs/gauges.htm Note green=go=MINIMUM

I guess Brownells Forster and the CMP don't know what they are talking about either.

[swheeler]

That is worrysome. Go gauges should be at SAAMI maximum cartridge, so if it closes on the go gauge any SAAMI compliant cartridge of that caliber will fit and headspace within acceptable tolerance.

Sounds like your new brass wasn't sized before loading.

As far as loading a 110 gr bullet for the '06, I'll have to check on that as most 110 gr bullets in 30 caliber are plinking or varmint bullets and may not perform well on game.

Yes really.

[DCM]

Yes really.

Obviously you did not thoroughly read any of the above links.

Keep dangling the bait it takes a lot to fill my belly.

[swheeler]

DCM you are confusing CARTRIDGE and CHAMBER dimensions

[DCM]

No I am not both the cartridge and the chamber dimensions must fall between the minimum=go and the maximum= no go haedspace lengths to meet SAAMI specs.

[DCM]

The chamber dimensions need to be such that actual loaded cartridges fit in them.

If one sets the chamber to barely over SAAMI Min. ="GO" much of the factory ammo will not fit.