Mold For 357 Sig...

[ArrowJ]

Here is my situation. I really want to start casting in the spring of next year when I start reloading again, but because of budget constraints I cannot really afford to do a lot of experimentation the for the first year.

Because of this I need to find a mold for 357 Sig that will come close to matching a good defensive round for a Glock 31. This way I can shoot more and learn about casting and then start having fun experimenting and so forth in 2014 when I get a rifle. Also, if anyone is dropping this exact boolit can you tell me if you are sizing them and to what size, and what lube you use?

Maybe I will need to slug my Glock barrel first? Anyway, any help you guys can give to get me setup on the cheap would be awesome. If this is unrealistic and I should wait until I can afford to buy multiple molds etc. to experiment I can do that too. All opinions welcome.

[45fan]

A 357 sig uses a 9 mm projectile if I am correct. I would assume choose a 9 mm mold that suits your needs. I havent seen a a dedicated 357 Sig mold before. Then again I am new to this casting thing so maybe I am mistaken.

[Von Dingo]

I have no experience with the .357 Sig, but recall that it uses different slugs than the 9MM. It has to do with overall length, and the ojive of standard 9MM slugs, short nosed slugs are needed. If the ogive is too long, the slug diameter won't be large enough for the slug be gripped by the case, let alone be crimped.

[shotman]

there are very few molds that will work. NO gas check and you say "defence??? " you cant load a lead for that, and in a glock barrel, you will have some problems finding a slug that will work with the size of the barrel. Most molds the crimp area is too long. and if you seat to work, the boolit will fall in case. . Best to get a 40 barrel and use it . You will be a lot happier

[ArrowJ]

Well, I only want to come close to defense because that is what it will be used for (home defense) and I wanted to train with a round close to what it will be loaded with in the safe. I think I saw at least one mold for 357 sig. I guess I will not be able to be picky. I may very well get a 40 barrel and 9mm barrel, but, I am definitely going to go with the Glock 31 in 357 Sig for various reasons...the other two barrels will drop in and work in the same gun.

[ArrowJ]

What are the limits for 40 S&W in bullet size? I know there is a fairly small pocket for 357 Sig. Now you have my definitely feeling like a probably

[scarry scarney]

When I was reloading my (sig 229) 357 sig, I was using the Rainer 124grn 9mm flat nose (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/105...ated-flat-nose). I would look for a mold that duplicated that bullet. Before you buy the mold, you might try to find someone that already has the mold and will give or sell you a few bullets

[Tim357]

Yeah, what Von said. I read a piece recently ( G &A, Shooting Times, or some such) that mentioned the difference in ogive, seated length, etc using regular 9 mm boolits/ bullets. IIRC, it was penned by the guy that used to work in the lab at CCI/ Speer

[ArrowJ]

Yeah, what Von said. I read a piece recently ( G &A, Shooting Times, or some such) that mentioned the difference in ogive, seated length, etc using regular 9 mm boolits/ bullets. IIRC, it was penned by the guy that used to work in the lab at CCI/ Speer

Any chance you can dig it up and let us know the source? I would love to read it. I will do a little Google later and see what that turns up.


http://highcaliberguns.com
http://thesitterdowners.com

[Elkins45]

What I have found is that a SWC style bullet with a long straight sided body profile rather that a rounded nose like the typical 9mm bullet. You might be better served by looking for a .35 caliber revolver bullet and sizing it to .356 or .357 as appropriate.

I really like the Lee 105 grain SWC bullet because it has a lot of surface area to grip the case wall. It's a bit lighter than the "normal" bullet but it feeds and shoots well.

[Tim357]

Arrow, I'll do some diggin, but CRS has a tendency to rear its ugly mug at times.

[MikeS]

there are very few molds that will work. NO gas check and you say "defence??? " you cant load a lead for that, and in a glock barrel, you will have some problems finding a slug that will work with the size of the barrel. Most molds the crimp area is too long. and if you seat to work, the boolit will fall in case. . Best to get a 40 barrel and use it . You will be a lot happier

What exactly do you mean you can't load lead for a defense load? Please explain that, as lead boolits have killed more people than jacketed bullets!

[MikeS]

ArrowJ, Yes, slugging your bore would be a good idea. One boolit I would seriously look at if I was you would be the Lee 105gr SWC boolit. It's designed for 38's, but it should work fine for 357sig as well. One important thing to remember is that because the sig round is a bottlenecked cartridge it headspaces on the shoulder of the cartridge, rather than on the edge of the cartridge, so boolits can and should be roll crimped rather than taper crimped. To roll crimp a boolit requires a crimp groove, something no 9mm boolit is going to have, but boolits designed for the 38/357 will. The 105gr SWC boolit is short enough that most of the boolit is within the neck. Unfortunately the neck on the 357sig is so short that it will be VERY hard to find a stock design that will stay wholly in the neck. With the 105, the entire lube groove is in the neck, something that is fairly important unless you're going to tumble lube the boolits. I just recently bought a mould for 400 Corbon, a cartridge that's similar to the 357sig in that it's a bottlenecked cartridge too.

With the 400 Corbon there's a tip to make reloading easier, that is resizing the case first in a 45ACP carbide sizing die, then sizing the neck with the proper 400Corbon die, I think the same can probably be done with the 357sig, that is first using a 40S&W carbide resizing die to resize the body, then the 357sig die to resize the neck. By doing this you don't need to use case lube when reloading them. I use a wet method of cleaning my cases, and so like to have the primers removed from the cases before cleaning them, so I run them thru the 45ACP die to resize the body, and remove the primer, then I clean them (first I run them thru a sonic cleaner, then I tumble them in dry corncob to dry and polish them) then when I run them thru the 400 resizing die it clears the flash hole of any corncob media thats stuck there. But this is getting off topic. Checkout the Lee 105gr SWC boolit, I think you'll like it.

[MtGun44]

I have not loaded for .357 Sig, but lots for .357 mag, .38 Super and 9mm Luger.
I would recommend Lee 356-120-TC as a starting point. With good lube and std
lube groove design and air cooled wwts there should be no need for GCs. I shoot full power
.357 Mag loads all the time without GCs, same for .44 Mag. Key points are fit,
design and lube quality. Start with NRA 50-50 or equiv and do not try other homebrews
until you get it working. AC wwt should be fine, hardness is at best a tertiary issue,
not primary by any means.

Bill

[shotman]

mike I want a BIG hole that way you dont shoot 15 rounds . IF you can get that many back to back with lead.
the Lee TL 356-124 works the best I have found . it as the small rings and can be seated as needed. . the sig dont have any case retention so you need a crip die . You will find its not cast friendly. I messed with it for while and give up .
one 1/2 grain will make big change. So get a GOOD power measure.

[fredj338]

The 357sig needs a very specific shaped bullet to function well. It will NOT take most RN designs & few TCFP. I use the Seaco 124gr TCFP, works fine as I get enough of the front driving band into the short case neck to provide good neck tension @ 0.356" dia. The issue w/ most lead bullets, particulalry smaller bores, is you will have a diff time getting good reults @ the higher op pressures of the 357sig. It can be done for sure, but will require more tinkering. I am happy to run mine @ 1200fps for practice loads. I still shoot a lot of plated & jacketed in 357sig though, the best bet IMO for full power 1350-1400fps loads.

[scarry scarney]

What mold number is your Saeco? Is it #377? Thanks

[40Super]

I shoot quite a bit of .357 Sig, and as much as wouldn't mind shooting lead in, that is one caliber that I'm satisfied with Berry's or Rainiers plated and Hornady xtp's in. To get enough neck tension is tricky as it is with jacketed, with lead you end up loosing some with the lube groove, I'd be worried about setback.
I have the .40 S&W barrel in that gun also and use it for practicing with lead.

[ArrowJ]

I think you are on to something 40Super. Maybe a 357 Sig with another barrel for lead. I have to say I am a little disconcerted with buying a Glock at all. I really do not want to buy a pistol that always works except when it starts spitting brass in your face. I could buy another generation but the Gen 4 fits my hand so much better. I will probably role the bones anyway and get two barrels.


http://highcaliberguns.com
http://thesitterdowners.com

[Elkins45]

I shoot quite a bit of .357 Sig, and as much as wouldn't mind shooting lead in, that is one caliber that I'm satisfied with Berry's or Rainiers plated and Hornady xtp's in. To get enough neck tension is tricky as it is with jacketed, with lead you end up loosing some with the lube groove, I'd be worried about setback.
I have the .40 S&W barrel in that gun also and use it for practicing with lead.

Use AA#9 powder and a straght-sided revolver bullet and you don't have to worry about setback. The boolet base is sitting on and supported by a full case powder charge.