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Thread: Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

  1. #81
    Boolit Master
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    oldskeet:

    piston is like a spool, with the 2 o-rings inside of it

    piston OD = 1.075
    piston height = 0.403
    piston ID = 0.3125 (the inside is threaded, so this measurement is the outside of the threads)
    distance from OD edge to ID edge looking down on top of the pressure nut = 0.3795
    thickness of the spool = 0.075

    o-ring OD = 1.14
    o-ring height = 0.20 (there are 2 o-rings one on top of another that are sandwiched inside the pressure nut)

    looks like the piston material is some type of hardened carbon steel

    i know a pic is best but that is what i have for right now... let me know if you need me to clarify anything

  2. #82
    Boolit Mold
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    Cane Man:

    I really appreciate the specs. I found a photo of and old and new pressure nut "piston" here:
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...essurenuts.jpg
    It looks as if the "lands" are equally spaced and of equal thickness. The o-ring math should be relatively simple. The split in my old piston cup is straight, not like the on in the photo with a tongue and groove. That's another reason why I feel that I should update the piston and not repair my old one. I will try to install some kind of pressure relief "ball and spring vent" on the new piston. I need to kill some time, cant shoot this week, yellow pollen clouds are floating around down here. A few minutes outside and you have yellow concrete setting up in the corners of your eyes...

    Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
    Bill

  3. #83
    Boolit Man


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    Thanks for this sticky. It has been invaluable in getting an old 45 back in operation. I got from a box of reloading stuff at a gun show for 15 bucks, turns out it had a .358 sizer and die in it and it works like gangbusters now.

  4. #84
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    can this stuff (Potassium nitrate) be re-used ?
    Or is it a one use, then dump ?
    Dump where ? do I need to find a stump lol
    Jon
    No, you need some sulfur and some charcoal!

    dale in Louisiana

  5. #85
    Boolit Mold
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    Lyman 45 with die retaining nut

    Scored a pair of Lyman 45's at a gun show last weekend. Has anyone ever seen a 45 with a die retaining nut? Here's a photo, plus photos showing the casting number and the outline of the clear sticker that was on it. There was no printing on the sticker when I got it, just the clear base, but at least you can see its shape and size. The four days of Kroil to free things up eventually floated the sticker off as it creeped everywhere.

    The die retaining nut was still tight after four days. The photo shows it partially unscrewed. There were two burrs at the top edge of the casting, protruding into the threaded opening for the retaining nut, putting pressure on it, which made it nearly impossible to judge if the nut was started correctly or was going to cross-thread. Don't know how the previoius owner ever coped with it. Took a half-round jeweler's file to the burrs, and now it screws in and out with finger pressure.


    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #86
    Boolit Mold
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    Lyman 45 Decal

    The other Lyman 45 I bought last weekend has a gold decal with black printing, rather than a sticker or label. Hers's a photo of it, and a photo of the casting number. It is on the right side of the casting as you face it. The other one has the casting number on its left side.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by HotLead; 09-21-2013 at 08:37 AM.

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by HotLead View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am guessing that the die retaining nut was done as a repair by a previous owner. I see some brazing on the iron casting, inbetween the die hole and the original Die setscrew. I can imagine if someone cracked a Iron casting, that they'd consider upgrading the die retention system to what a newer model has. I'd love to see a closeup photo both the casting with the die retention nut removed and the the die retention nut itself.

    I'm glad you got the Burrs cleaned up and are able to easily remove that nut.
    Good Luck,
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  8. #88
    Boolit Mold
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    Photos? Your wish is my pleasure. You can see that I started to dig out the old lube and changed my mind. The old stuff is soft enough that I might go ahead and try it out for some low velocity revolver loads.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The arrows in the last photo show where the burrs were on the top edge of the hole, that created so much drag on the retaining nut. The biggest was the one on the right.
    Last edited by HotLead; 09-21-2013 at 10:59 PM.

  9. #89
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    Thanks for sharing. well whoever did that work, they knew what they were doin' except for the burrs, unless that happened after the fact???

    That lube is colored much like the ole tried and true 50-50, Alox-beeswax, which was [and is] made by many vendors. It's a good lube, but can be a little smoky, but may not be noticed unless shooting in a indoor range. Don't worry, it's nothing smoky like BP.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  10. #90
    Boolit Mold oddgunner's Avatar
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    Thank god I found this tread. A friend of mine dad found out that I had started casting my own boolits. He brought me all his old boolit casting stuff. In the big old bow was a Lyman 45 (score), the only problem is the lube is so old its hard as a rock. I have some work to do, but I think it will be worth it.

    Thanks every one for all the great tips.
    As always there is lots to learn here.

  11. #91
    Boolit Mold
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    Just wanted to say thanks for making a great thread like this. I just finished cleaning up an old lyman 45 I picked up last week off ebay.

    Does anyone know where I could find one of the tops Cap that cover the tube? Thats the only piece I am missing, I also need to get a new pressure nut as mine has the old syle and the brass part has seperated from the pressure nut.

  12. #92
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    The first two items on this Page are the closest things available.
    The reservoir cover is more of a plug instead of a cap...but will work on the 45.
    The pressure nut uses O-rings now instead of a brass sleeve and also works on the 45.
    http://www.lymanproducts.com/store/page151.html
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  13. #93
    Boolit Bub
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    Also want to say thanks for all helpful info in this thread. I bought a couple 45's off ebay several months ago, got one up and running last weekend, it was in pretty good shape and just needed disassembly and cleaning.



    Mixed up some Ben's red and it's working great.



    The second 45 will require a lot more work. I need a thumbscrew if anyone has a source.

  14. #94
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    The thumb screws are not really needed on the bottom Bar that mounts to the slides, I have bought hex setscrews at the hardware store, I don't recall what the thread was, just bring one with you. Once you do that, you'll have spares for the depth stop lock and top punch mount.

    I don't have a source for New thumbscrews, but I do have a few old ones laying around, besides being 50+ years old, they are tough looking, while the threads may be OK, they have plier marks on the knurling and are probably rusty.

    Just an FYI:
    I think the one for the depth stop lock had a cavity in the end for some kind of rubber or fiber insert to go against the threads of the depth stop adjustment bolt, I just use a piece of lead shot, cause mostly, the rubber or fiber are disintegrated on the ones I've seen...BUT use something, those threads are very fine and easily destroyed, the depth stop bolt is not available anywhere that I know of, with no similar modifiable swapout...and difficult to make cheaply.
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  15. #95
    Boolit Bub
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    Didn't have any luck yesterday finding hex screws with pitch that fine at my local hardware store, but I have a couple more in the area I can check. Good point about the depth stop, I'll put some shot in there.

  16. #96
    Boolit Bub
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    Disassembled, cleaned, blasted, added some cold blue and Chevy engine paint, now my second 45 is ready to go.


  17. #97
    Boolit Master



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  18. #98
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    Thanks to all. Another one rejuvenated.
    If you take a dog which is starving and feed him and make him prosperous, that dog will not bite you. This is the primary difference between a dog and a man.

  19. #99
    Boolit Master JesterGrin_1's Avatar
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    I am getting ready to redo an Old Lyman 45 and wished to ask if I need to purchase a new Pressure Screw if I get a New Pressure Nut?

    The Original Pressure nut is a split design and leaks out the top.

    And another wild question of which I will ask since so many people like the Lyman 45 and that is what is a good heater to use with the Lyman 45 with Carnauba Red Lube?
    If one sits in thundering quiet the soul dies slow instead of yell to the heavens for all to hear and behold the righteous and upstanding and ones of which should be held with tales of woe. By C.A.S. <--- Thats Me lol.

  20. #100
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JesterGrin_1 View Post
    I am getting ready to redo an Old Lyman 45 and wished to ask if I need to purchase a new Pressure Screw if I get a New Pressure Nut?

    The Original Pressure nut is a split design and leaks out the top.

    And another wild question of which I will ask since so many people like the Lyman 45 and that is what is a good heater to use with the Lyman 45 with Carnauba Red Lube?

    sad to say it depends , some of the earliest model 45's used the same pitch of threads as the #1 sizer ( i call these "informally" generation 1 45's ) most have the newer pressure screw pitched threads , no way to honestly tell from here ,hints are newer 45's have a aluminum reservoir cap , a pin ( with cotter keys ) handle pivot ( as opposed to a shouldered bolt ) a spoked cast iron wheel type cap was carried over from the #1
    if you have a 450 and your two piece pressure nut fits the thread you're good to go , of note the pressure screws arent too expensive but there is a wee bit of difference on the top shaft ( a lil longer and a thicker shaft at the top that will require modding the cap by drilling the hole larger , 5/16" iirc and easy enough to do ) also of note i have an original #1 with the square drive screw ...some report that the threads arent the same yet i can ( and have ) used a newer o-ring pressure nut ( fit right on ermm i mean screwed right on in just fine [shrugz] ) so chances are good that you do not need a new screw
    Je suis Charlie

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    if it was easy would it be as worthy ? or as long of lasting impression ? the hardest of lessons are the best of teachers [shrugz]
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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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GC Gas Check